Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunter's Campfire Is your gun safe bolted to the floor?

I recently purchased a 26 gun safe and can't decide if I want it bolted to the floor. IIRC it'll weigh about 1000 lbs filled,so I really don't think its going anywhere. Any thoughts?

mine is blind bolted to wall studs with 8-inch lag bolts.

Yup.

Tony

Ditto...

Mine weighs 1100 pounds and took six big men to scoot into its place off the dolly--I didn't bother with bolts.

mine is bolted to the floor on a 32x32x4 inch pad. i raised off the regular floor in case of any water in the garage. the bolts i used were made by powers. they are 3/8x5 and the guys told me they use them to hold the big furnaces and ac units in the tops of warehouses. it works pretty good, but if a theif wants them they will get them eventually.......blake

Four 1/2 Stainless Hilti anchors in the basement floor and a little sign for those who might consider torching the door
"Danger-contains explosive material"

Ditto. BMT

I'm shopping for a safe right now. The one I am leaning toward has (2) 1/2" holes in the bottom for 3/8" bolts. Since I am having to put it in the garage with no door, I'm considering enlarging the holes and maybe adding 2 more. I'm also going to use a couple pieces of approx 1/2 X 4" alum. bar as supports at the points where the bolts extend thru the bottom of the safe. This will be a temporary situation until I build my shop after retirement next year. Does anyone have a better solution. By the way, the one I want weighs a little less than a 1000 lbs.

Yup!
Mine is up aginst the log wall, in my log house, then lag bolted down with 6 bolts. Am thinking it weighs 650 lbs. empty.
The guys I bought it from reccomended putting a cupple lbs. of loose black powder in a pan, on the floor of the safe. That way if anyone tries to get in with a torch, their remains will be found.
Hard on guns and the house, but tuff on crooks.... <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />
Virgil B.

Leave a very detailed discription of the unlocking sequence (turn right past 92 three times...etc) of course use different numbers and leave the note in an obvious place. Crooks are generally lazy and I figure the longer they are there trying to steal your guns the better the chance of catching them.

EG

I have a real gun valt made by FORT KNOX SAFE CO ..YOU MUST have a safe moving CO. to move it --- no K MART safe here <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

well, i too, just purchased a new safe. got mine from sam's club, which, after a little digging, i discovered gets their safes from granit safe co. in foat wuth. always did like foat wuth. granite's website quotes lots higher prices than the local sam's club did. spent 750 or so including taxes on the thing and just about filled it up straightaway.

mine will be bolted to the floor just as soon as i figure out how to move it to a spot which is not directly under the blankety blankety blankety blank attic access, which is now effectively blocked from human access by the blankety blankety blankety safe. i need to do this before i run out of toilet paper which is gonna be this weekend. the bad part about this is that i spent 150 bucks getting a safe guy to come over here and place the blankety thing where it is now, and he put the blankety blank thing just exactly where i asked him to also.... <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif" alt="" />

i was hoping i could get outta this without having new adventures with hemorrhoids but i guess not... i ain't gonna get him all the way out here again to move the bloody thing 6 feet. better buy beer and call "friends" up.

my advice is, if you bolt it down make sure you can get into the attic, the hot water heater, the (insert your favorite necessary access opening here) is not fouled in access by your safe...

peace to all.

I believe I would secure it in some fashion, bolts, steel cable, chain, etc. Anybody that has experience at moving heavy objects of anykind have a bag of tricks to lessen the labor and time involved such as levers, wedges, round steel bars, ballbearings, hyd. jacks and so on. Then, if it will fit through a door,.... bye-bye safe and contents. As far as breaking into safe at location, it can and is done, as some folks have sadly found out. I suppose a lot depends on the quality of the safe, the "know how" of the thieves and how much time and privacy they have. The U L rates safes for fire, forced entry and such, here is a link to a webpage showing the levels of protection based on their testing.

U L Safe Ratings Req.

By the way, I'm not selling this brand of safes, <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> this is just the first webpage I found that details the U L's test criteria to qualify for their various ratings. .......joken2

I have an old dynomite chest bolted to the garage floor and a Fort Knox bolted down in a walk in closet. The safe is noted as haviny "Explosive contents" and the dynomite chest say's in bold letter on it "DANGER COMMERCIAL DYNOMITE" and under that "HERCULES EXPLOSIVES Co." This is on all four sides of it, I got it from an old quarrey when I lived in Illinois and blasted for them.

LOL, Tommygs... Now THAT's thinkin ahead..... LMAO... Oh man.. Ok, here's how you can move yours basically by yourself. You will need one other person for only a very small, light duty chore while you're moving it.

Obtain at least 3 (4 is better) 3/4 or 1" steel pipes, one foot longer in length than the longest side of your safe. Have the other person ready with a pipe to place under the safe when you've tilted it enough to allow room for the pipe. By careful moving, you can get that first pipe very near the center of the safe. Then have a second one placed about 1/4 of the way in. Allow the safe to rock back onto the two pipes, then just before you start to roll that safe, have person2 place another pipe up against the far side. Now, by alternately placing a pipe in front, and removing the pipe that rolls out the back, you can easily 'roll' your safe to wherever you wish.

I used that technique about 4 months ago when I purchased my second Liberty. This one weighs about 1000# empty, and I moved it from the garage into my wood shop in about 20 minutes with my son doing the pipe work. Going around corners with this method is also easy, just angle the pipes placed in front by 25-30 degrees and you can also spin the safe a bit while rolling it.

I do not bolt mine down. They're in areas where it would be pretty tough for even 4 crooks to move these things out, plus I'm home about 90% of the time, AND each safe has a dedicated security system unit whereby NO ONE can get to them before the alarms go off..

If I had one of the lighter safes, I probably would bolt them down.

Mines 10 lbs empty. Took 4 guys and a pallet jack to get it in. I don't figure it's going anywhere. If that may burglars want to steal, they can have the damn thing.

Mines 1000 lbs empty. Took 4 guys and a pallet jack to get it in. I don't figure it's going anywhere. If that may burglars want to steal, they can have the damn thing.

Mossy,

Will you be bolting the safe into a slab? Make sure you know where the water lines are before drilling.

Bob

has anyone here ever had a safe stolen or personally known anyone who has?