Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Bowhunting I'm a recurve/longbow man, but my problem is...

Another thought would be to contact Martin and see if they will sell extra limbs. I used to build custom takedowns in a former life and sold some with 2 sets. I think I have 4 risers and 7 or 8 sets of limbs left. Going too heavy is fairly common but if you shoot quite a bit your technique and strength improves pretty quickly. I had one knucklehead order a set of 102# carbon-faced limbs. He must have sobered up later, because I ended up eating them.

Well damnit, just received my order today, and wouldn't you know, the f-in limbs are twisted. They'd BETTER give me a refund or exchange. The name of the company is Dale Hollow outdoors or "Archery Market" online. Of course, they closed 3 minutes ago, so I have to wait until Monday to call. This sucks!

There is twisted and then there is twisted. Sometimes you can gently twist them back. I'm no bow expert but know that some recurve limbs can twist a bit fairly easy; I know my Bruin limbs have on occasion when stringing them but I've always been able to twist them back (after talking to the maker the first time)

Of course since yours are new you may want to contact them first.

TTT

Any word yet?

How twisted are they? Take down or one piece? Most recurves require either a lot of mishandling, leaning in a corner for 10 years or long term use with no stringer to become twisted. Some, however, take only one time to be warped for life.

This is one of the main reasons I prefer a longbow. Unless you get it really hot it ain't going nowhere. Drop it out of a tree or toss it off a cliff. No problem.

You might want to log onto some of the trad archery sites and throw out a few questions. See what those folks have to say about the bow and the compny.

Thanks Archerhunter. I called them on Monday, and they said to call Martin to have the limbs replaced. I said I wanted a new bow at lower weight, and they said that that would be ok and to send it back. I said I'd pay for shipping. They should receive the old bow on Friday and we'll if they own up to the deal. Too bad I have to wait another 2 weeks but I guess that's ok. I dropped to a #40 weight this time, instead of the #50, based on my local archery instructor's response to my choice in #50, and me being 6'2". He said that taller people are better with a 66" bow. I told Him that the Martin Hatfield Take Down bow doesn't come in a 66, and that that's the bow I want.

You couldn't get the longer bow in a heavier weight than 40#?

If I'd gotten the 66, then I would have went with 50#, but since the Hatfield is only available in 62, then I go with 40#. I debated getting #45 in a 62, but I had to make a decision fast so I chose the easier weight. Should I have gotten #45? It's not too late. I know it's crazy, but it's legal to hunt with #30 here in Colorado. This is so that kids will be able to hunt.

Glad to hear they're going to make things right. Sounds like they're good for it. Don't know why they wouldn't be.

With 40 pounds at your height you'll be pulling near 50 by the time you reach achor. Better to start with a lighter bow and not develop bad habits. I've witnessed a lot of short draw shooters that would quickly become much more consistant archers if they'd drop a few pounds and practice good consistant form. They look like they're hunkering down behind a bush when standing out in the open. Talk them into standing up strait and drawing it clear back once and they're amazed at how fast their bow shoots all of a sudden. They usually shoot right over top of the target. If standing correctly and holding your draw elbow back properly (using back tension) the weight of the bow is resting on skeletal structure rather than having to hold with muscle and tendon. Much easier on the anatomy and much easier to be consistant. I think you chose right going to 40. Other's might argue

With 450 to 500 grain arrows you'll blast through deer like a bowl of jello and stick in dirt the other side of elk most of the time, too. Sounds like your local archery guy knows what he's talking about. Have him help set you up with the right arrows and get tuned for good flight and you're off and running. Sounds like you're good to go!

Have fun with it! You'll be ready for the woods in plenty of time for next season. Probably be chomping the bit by july like the rest of us

Thanks so much for the encouragement on my purchase and instructor, Archerhunter. I also aim to make my own broadheads one day to go with my purchased broadheads one day. I discovered an Excellent video series on natural bowhunting/survival and how to make arrows by a former Ranger here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d1_0MZYHsGU&feature=channel_page

Absolutely amazing dude http://www.youtube.com/profile?user=wildernessoutfitters&view=videos&start=160

Yes, if you're pulling about 50# at your draw that would be fine.

Excellent links Jeepers!

I'm gonig to start watching some of that. Looks like fun!

I STILL! haven't received my Martin Hatfield Takedown Bow! What is wrong with Dale Hollow Outdoors or Martin???

I would say it is probably not Martin. I went through the plant two days ago, and they are a first rate operation. If you ever get the chance, it is pretty cool. I also wanted to add that you should try to use arrows that are all the same weight (you mentioned used arrows). There are other things to consider, like arrow spine for your draw weight, tunning the bow, brace height, the list goes on. Another excellent resource is the traditional section at archerytalk.com.

Good luck, and it is addicting. I have Three compounds, two Elite GT500s and one Martin Bengal, and three traditional bows, all Martins, the latest is a Martin Savannah (55#).

5

I have a 64" Black Widow TD for going on 20 years--I've never taken it down. And I do backpack hunts in the San Juans, Sangre De Cristos, West Elks, Flattops, etc.......

I have two sets of straps dedicated to lashing the bow across the top of my pack, and has worked well even when bushwacking off trail through moderately thick timber. I do my rifle the same way.



Casey

Thanks guys. FINALLY, received my bow. Glad I didn't cancel the order. Got 4 carbon arrows (5570?, I forget). I shot it for the 1st time today at dusk at a free range here, just me there with the mosquitos. Shot at Least 100 arrows, until my arm gave out and my accuracy began to suffer. I was able to get groupings around the bullseye, but not Very tight at 25 yards. I pretty much was able to point and shoot where I wanted it though.

The string needs twisting to 7". It's not dialed in how a pro would have it. I don't have one of those rulers for measuring the knock etc. There was a lot of noise it seemed. Maybe the way I was shooting it? I thought that the Martin Hatfield TD was a "quiet" bow. I'm going hunting in the fall with a compound bow buddy of mine, so I need to get up to speed before I go.

I hunted and shot 3d for many years with a Hatfield Hunter. 60#@28", I draw ~30".

I can say that the Hatfield is one of the best mass produced take down bows on the market.

You need a bow square to set up properly. The Hatfield is a quiet bow but, it needs string silencers. If it is loud to bystanders, check that the limbs are tight and square in the pockets, check your release, plucking string will make all kinds of noise.

My personal preference with the Hatfield is to use a Flemish twist string, it will cost a few feet per second but, is much more quiet.

Twisting the string is the normal way to achieve proper brace height. Hint, keep 2 strings in rotation to allow proper stretch and thus a ready back-up.

As for arrows I always has better luck, with the Hatfield, using the Hoyt stick on leather and plastic arrow rest. I also shot better with large diameter, light weight arrows, 2413 or 2512 Eastons, in my case.

Jeepers, I was reading this thread back in January...

Ditch the carbons... Thats where a lot of your noise is coming from. As a minimum, figure 10 grains arrow weight per Lbs of draw weight. a 55 Lbs bow should shoot arrows at least 550 grains. I go even heavier... I shoot a 60 Lbs Schaeffer Silver-Tip with 2117's and a 150 grain head, and I stuff my shafts with 5/16th's Polycord to push the weight up to about 700 grains. I also use a Mountain Muffler bowstring and Limbsaver "Mushrooms" on the limbs. Mouse farts make more noise, and I've yet to leave an arrow in an Elk or Deer.

A recurve or longbow lends itself well to chunking heavy arrows at moderate speeds. Carbons and high speeds are for the compound boys... (unless you use brass inserts, big heads and weight tubes, but its more money than its worth and too much FOC makes arrows do weird things)

Well, I bought/shot some more arrows today. Broke 2. There was a big archery event going on where I'm at and they set up decoys of all manner of animals: deer, elk, turkey, hog, buffalo, you name it.

I twisted my string like you said and now it's much quieter, accurate, and faster. This is a great bow, and I'm happy that I didn't go compound. I was more accurate than the compound bow shooter next to me, though his arrow was definitely faster.

Going hunting in September. Need to get ready. Next will be selecting the broadheads. I have no idea what to get.

Also, is it possible to shoot your traditional bow from 70, 90? yards accurately? Who shoots from that far? There were targets at that distance.

>>Who shoots from that far? <<

Saxton Pope, Art Young

I practice at 88 yards all the time (corner to corner across my back yard) and I've shot out to 100 quite a few times. However, I'd never attempt that on game. I'd stick one at 40 yards if everything was perfect and the shot felt right.

Practicing at longer yardages WILL make you a better archer (even if you shoot a compound) longer yardages have a way of making you very aware of any issues in your form. If you practice at the 70 yard-line a lot, you'd be suprised how easy shots are at 30

For broadheads and traditional equipment, stick with cut-on-contact ones. They take a lot less energy to punch through critters. I used to use Wensal Woodsmans, now I use Razorcaps.

Also, I don't know if it got mentioned, get a copy of TJ Conrads book "Traditional Bowhunters Handbook" TB magazine is where to find a copy. Lots of good info in there