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I drew a Idaho moose tag this year and I hope to shoot him with my bow. Any ideas on what broadhead I should use?
I normally shoot muzzys for antelope and shuttle T-locks for elk and deer, both in 100 gr. I am not opposed to changing broadheads all together.
Would a cut on contact head be better for a moose's big body? Do you think that a 100 gr. broadhead will be enough or should I move up to a 125?
Sorry for all the questions, hope you guys can give me some help.
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Joined: Dec 2008
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Nothing wrong with muzzy's but what is more important is your setup. How much weight are you pulling, length of arrows, speed you are getting and can you get that arrow where it needs to go. Nowadays you can look at charts that will tell you the foot pounds of energy recommended for all big game animals and with todays equipment you should be good to go.
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Joined: Mar 2008
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Sorry TomA, forgot to mention my setup. I am shooting a Matthews outback, axis arrows at a 60 lb draw ( I plan to use crank the draw to 70lb for the moose hunt ) with a 28 inch draw. I am accurate to 50 yards but with practice this summer I hope to extend that a little.
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Sounds to me like you've got a good setup and should be good to go. Keep on practicing and remember to pick a spot. Best of luck to you. Tom
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Joined: Mar 2007
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I have never arrowed a moose but have sunk muzzys into the shoulder blade, and into the backbone of whitetail. They are tough enough to do the job.There is one other broadhead you might consider its the G5 fixed blade it is a solid one piece design and They are very sharp.
Proud to be an American United States Marine
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Campfire Outfitter
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More importantly than the broadhead and setup is shot placement. Moose are huge..........take only a broadside or quartering away shot. A solid double lung hit it mandatory. My buddy shot a moose a couple years ago with an older 60# bow and 2314's w/ 100gr muzzy's - zipped right through him.
A true sportsman counts his achievements in proportion to the effort involved and fairness of the sport. - S. Pope
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Campfire Ranger
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Do not use the G5 broadheads, I had a buddy that had to shoot a moose last year 5 times before it went down. He made several good shots on the bull but penetration sucked. He was really embarrassed when he told me about it. I had another buddy that used a 100 gr Shuttle T to bring down a big P&Y bull moose with 1 shot at 20 yards. Have never shot a moose with a bow but it's not for lack of trying. I've been using Muzzy 125gr broadheads but this year I'm the 100gr Grizz Tricks a shot.
That's ok, I'll ass shoot a dink.
Steelhead
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Employing 125 gr Magnus Stingers or Slick Tricks has worked exceptionally well for me in taking buffalo, kudu, gemsbok, etc.
Although I didn't pull the trigger, I have also personally seen a Montec G5 fracture from contact with a big critte's spine(buffalo).
YMMV.
"Everyone who receives the protection of society owes a return for the benefit." -- John Stuart Mill
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Campfire Kahuna
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Campfire Kahuna
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I could be wrong, but you impact something as big as a buffs spine, I"d suspect most broadheads would have some damage... I know a zwickey could crack the spot welds, a snuffer could bend and those two have been awful tough heads over their life spans for us.
We can keep Larry Root and all his idiotic blabber and user names on here, but we can't get Ralph back..... Whiskey Tango Foxtrot, over....
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Had a G5 blow through a moose monday morning. Granted, it was a younger meat bull, but got a complete pass through on a qtr'ing away shot. Took out one rib one the way in, just meat and vitals past that. Very pleased with the performance.
Will
Since the World is 2/3 Water and Only 1/3 Land, Figures the Good Lord Intended I Fish More Than I Plow.
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Trophy Taker Shuttle-T's. Either weight.
Taylor
-[]------->
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If anyone dissatisfied with their G5's, and looking for Magnum Slick Tricks, I got two paks of slick tricks (used one boradhead on foam target) I would swap.
Will
Since the World is 2/3 Water and Only 1/3 Land, Figures the Good Lord Intended I Fish More Than I Plow.
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Campfire Tracker
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Magnus Stingers do a dandy job on Moose, and rarely stay in em. I have whacked two moose with Stingers with no complaints. As a matter of fact my bow is in the truck and ready to go for the next 30 days. Hopefully I can kill one in my backyard like I did last year!
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Stinger man here. Just started using the 4 blade. Love their two blade.
Your Every Liberal vote promotes Socialism and is an attack on the Second Amendment. You will suffer the consequences.
GOA,Idaho2AIAlliance,AmericanFirearmsAssociation,IdahoTrappersAssociation,FoundationForWildlifeManagement ID and MT.
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ross220,
Your bow setup looks adequate for moose, for sure. Last fall in Africa, I used a 100 gr. Muzzy MX3 to take a 2000+ lb. Eland. I would think it would work equally well on moose.
I began using the Muzzy Phantom MX broadhead this fall. It will get a real workout (I hope) on bull elk, whitetail, and bighorn sheep. I've already taken a pronghorn with it, hardly a test of penetration! Did leave a nice X in the center of the heart.
I like the fact that they are cut on contact heads, crazy sharp out of the package, hold their sharpness after being shot into targets, and have .040" thick steel primary blades. They were also very easy to tune to shoot along with my field points, and nearly every head spins up perfectly on my Beman XT Hunter shafts.
I'd rather be a free man in my grave, than living as a puppet or a slave....
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Campfire Tracker
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I would highly recommend a solid 4 blade head over any 3 blade or 2 blade head. I have killed 15 elk with all kinds of 3 blade heads. I moved up to 4 blade Slick Tricks and a 4 blade broadhead of my own design and simply can't believe the difference in blood trails. The quick deaths of elk with 4 blade vs. 3 blade heads speaks volumes. There is no comparison on equal shot placement. My last 5 elk have died within 10 feet. The one I shot last weekend went 20 yards. Cutting diameter is a BIG deal on big critters. Flinch
Flinch Outdoor Gear broadhead extractor. The best device for pulling your head out.
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I used 100 grain G5 Montecs and got a complete passthrough on an elk in Colorado on openening day. This was my only experience with them but I have no complaints. My guide said he has seen good results with clients that used them.
"Somehow, the sound of a shotgun tends to cheer one up" -- Robert Ruark
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Campfire Kahuna
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Campfire Kahuna
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I REALLY like the way the G5 looks. It was in the only elk I've ever found dead/not recovered some years ago and it was in perfect shape. But it won't make a big hole. Doesn't matter as to the results, but it can be harder to find them with a smaller hole/less of a trail.
4 blade makes sense to me. I always used 4 blade Deltas when still shooting Zwickey. Some days I wonder why I don't still shoot them. Heavy enough, none of the light weight BS, penetrate like crazy and cut a decent hole...
We can keep Larry Root and all his idiotic blabber and user names on here, but we can't get Ralph back..... Whiskey Tango Foxtrot, over....
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I haven't been happy with the G5 holes in elk and deer. Same feelings with a lot of my guide buddies. Sure they die, but make for long tracking jobs. They are REALLY stout heads, easy to sharpen and look cool, but for big critters, they just don't blow my skirt up. I have killed several elk with Thunderheads as well and they do about the same. They are a stout head, but just didn't leave the blood trail I wanted. Slick Tricks and my own head have left major blood trails that a blind man could follow. I won't go back to a 3 blade for anything. Just one man's opinion based on a lot of dead critters. Flinch
Flinch Outdoor Gear broadhead extractor. The best device for pulling your head out.
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