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any real secrets to removing an old rear sight other than going left to right?? Any lubricant you all have used to help out. I have a decent brass drift and hammer and have tried removing two with little luck... I was able to put one on a different gun from right to left...

Thanks

Drew,

Here is how I do it, not a pro, but it has worked for me.

I take a brass punch (same one and I use it about 3 times before retaping) and tape up the hitting surface with electrical tape. If the sight has an elevator I remove the elevator and use a playing card (high quality and usually the joker) and put that under the section of the sight that rests against the barrel. It is best if you have a rifle vise, but if you don't I have used a hard surface with protection under the rifle (ie the floor with rug, the surface has to be firm and non marking). Hit the sight crisp, none of the taps, they are in there tight. Make sure you are holding the punch tightly, you don't want to have it bounce and hit the wood or barrel. Use a light ball pean hammer to stike the punch. Follow all safety rule for the tools that you are using.

I think that is every thing.

Short of a bigger hammer, about all you can do is let it soak a day or two in some good penetrating oil. You're moving them in the right direction. I really hate to say it, but sometimes you really have to wail the drift to get one to move- but you didn't hear that from me! One time I played a fine flame from a little butane torch over one then let it cool down and then the drift moved it. The heat was to break the bond of whatever schmeck was holding it tight.

I gave up using brass drifts a long time ago prefering to use a soft copper bar now. I have seen bases dented from using hard brass drifts. Either way use one long enough to keep an errant hammer strike well away from anything you don't want dented. Either brass or copper will usually leave a slight smear of metal on the steel which disappears with some bore cleaner.

I've searched, Has anyone found a reasonably priced, simple to use sight pusher?

I have a couple that won't move either. Taking the forearm off can give you the confidence to hit it a "little harder". I always start with a piece of 1/2 inch hardwood dowel before advancing to anything metallic. Wonder what Bubba used to jam some of these incorrect sights into the dovetail?
BillR

Check some buckskinner/blackpowder sites

I have a really nice EG that has the original factory rear on it... I was hoping to put on a set of stiths though...

what sort of penetrant do you all use? I am afraid some will take off finish. I have WD-40 and PB catalyst readily available. Hear d good things and bad things about Krull (SP??) I recently read an article on the doublegun forum where they did a test of penetrants and the best was homemade... a 50% mix of ATF and acetone I think... I would just be afraid of it removing bluing. I'll see if i can find the post.

For now, I am going ot just take the forearm off, use a little gun oil for lubricant, try a slightly larger drift and wrap it in tape... and remove the rear sight eleveator (thanks Blair and all)

A little bit of carefully directed heat will sometimes work wonders too.

Rod

Kroil oil works best for me, use a pic, for that Blue painters tape under the sight, I start with a wood or nylon rod, than go to brass punch, go slow.
John

All right... a little gun oil soaking, a bigger drift, and harder hit and blue painters tape on the barrel and electrical tape on the drift and I have successfully removed two rear sights with no signs of damage!!!

Thanks guys.... picutres. to come

I am going to let all of you guys in on my own personal secret for removing rear sights.

I...............take it to my gunsmith.

Last one I had done, $15. Not a mark on the gun or the sight. I'd have wrecked it for sure. You guys must be either handier with tools or a lot cheaper than I am.

Randy

I bought a my very first 99 on a work trip... had several weeks out of town and I thought the gun needed to re "restored" So I bought a blue stripping kit and some cold blue... long story short... took it to the "gunsmith" that I bought it from to have the sights taken out... he banged the crap out of it... on top of that, I don't yet know of a decent gunsmith within 100 miles of St.. Louis... been asking for a while...

Kroil is great stuff but realize it will attack the bluing.

I would try some heat before the Kroil.

Please expand on this as I have never had bluing attacked when using Kroil.

here is a dicussion from the double gun board on penetrant.

http://www.doublegunshop.com/forums...l&topic=0&Search=true#Post159979

Thanks Drew, Im going to mix up a batch of atf/acetone for around the shop and give it a try.

I NEVER use a brass punch. I use a cut piece of Delrin. Just as strong and will NEVER leave a mark on the bluing. JMO...!!!

Mike...


Click for even more goodies...!!!

what is Delrin?

This is Delrin:

Mike...

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyoxymethylene_plastic


New goodies with A LOT more to come next week...!!!

Plastic, Ive used UHMW as a punch also, another plastic.