Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Ask The Gunwriters HIGGINS MODEL 50/FN ACTION CALIBERS

I have the model 50 with the backward rear sight. I can tell in the past, someone struggled with deciding on a scope and mount.
It is like new, 98%... The scope was mounted in a Weaver flip over base and rings. The flip base was actually for a Win 70 and the rear did not fit flush with the rear receiver bridge. There is also an additional hole in the rear receiver to allow the Win 70 spacing to work.
I removed all that and fitted Talley steel bases and rings. Fit fine.
Also have a very nice JCH, Model 51, Husqvarna, in .243 Win.

Thanks for the tip on the stockys laminated! That's a beautiful stock, very nice that it's finished as lams I was looking at on other sites required finishing. Does anyone know if this should be a drop in with minimal fitting, or would it require a decent bit of work?

Also, this is definitely an M-50, not M51. I'll take the tip on the trigger, it's super crisp right now and about 3 pounds, it breaks perfectly, but safety first!

The stocks that I used were from a major manufacturer of aftermarket stocks (now out of business). They required considerable work, primarily because the stocks were too tall in the area of the magazine inletting. I ended up taking them to a friend who is a stock maker and he made the necessary alterations and bedded the rifles for me.

Don't know about Stockys, you should probably ask them.

By the way, does anyone know if this trigger would be the one to fit in my gun? I keep reading long and short ring and I'm not sure what that means as well.
Thanks!
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=312242

Coupla thangs, based on that A-Bove:

The "barrel Lump" on mine, I do think, is dovertailed in and not brazed on. If you have one and the rear sight iterferes with the scope bell, you can remove it and buy one of those flip up typ from Williams. Shortens the already short sight radius, though.

I think any FN action base will work. I am going to put Leupold detachables on my '06. Both my guns came with weaver basess attached, and it appeas from the anual link in there that they all came thisway.

my stock lacks a cheeckpiece and is OK in overall shape. I say that because the butt is good in overall shape and the drop is not bad (as long as you do not have high rings), but remember, this thing is from the 50's so large objective bells on scopes were not commonplace. The forend is almost square in shape and makes it feel clubby, like the early Savage plastic stocks, the only real problem with the stock, IMHO. The biggest detriment is that the hard plastic buttplate is convex in shape, and it bruises the crap outta me when I shoot it early season. Ain't got around to a pad yet, but as you can imagine, I will

My 270 is pretty smooth, but the '06, when I got it, was sticky and rough! When you loaded 5 rounds it was very-very hard to get the rounds loading from the left to feed properly, you really had to muscle them in. I took the floorplate and buffed it on a buffing wheel at work, and used JB compund in the action (rub it in there, manipulate the action 25 times, clean it out, and then see where you are), plus a tee-tiny amount of very gentle work on the underside of the feedlips with some very fine sandpaper, almost felt like I really wasn't doing anything, and she is silky smooth now, like you would expect of an FN action.

The safety, when fully up, is right against the ocular bell of my Leupold scope. They did not plan for this in the '50's, similair to not planning for big objective bells, so you can go to a swing-type safety, but I am fine with mine as-is right now. it has accounted for several deer wo I gues I am used to it.

That BOLD trigger will work, but note that the trigger supplied on the gun is an odd 2-piece type, so you will have to widen the trigger slot in the floorplate for it to fit, and you might have to open up the inside of the stock at the trigger area as well. For the cost of the replacement trigger plus the work, my 'smitty adjusted it to a creep free 2.8 lb, very crisp trigger, and that was all I wanted. I like the shape of the factory trigger as to the Timney/Bold anyhow. If you are farting around with the existing trigger in the gun, make sure tah the bolt is out of the gun before you loosen the action screws. Otherwise, when the action seperates from the stock, it can cause the striker to fall. This will very definitely happen if you have action out and seperate the floorplate/mag box from the gun with the bolt in it and cocked. Not good if you have a loaded gun (don't know why you would do that with a loaded gun, so this is more PSA than anything)

One last thing. the overall weight of the gun with exiting stock is like 8.5 lbs, so all up with scope/etc., it approaches 10 lbs! not good for mountain country, but very rugged and ideal, especailly with it's backup iron sights, for hunting from stands and places where you hunt more than climb. For all that weight, mine shoots MOA to right AT 1 inch @ 100yds (5 rounds) using Factory Wally-world cheap stuff, so I think that is pretty good - can't wait to start handloading in 2010.

As you can see, I am a HUGE fan of the gun. I am going to shift the Leupy over to my 1952 Mannlicher Shoenauer half-stock, and I have a nice Weaver K4 duplex to install on it. I thik 4x is all I need for the woods of SC anyhow. I am thinking that, after the pad, I may also have the metal duracoated. This is not as fancy as the M-S guns I own, but it has rightfully earned it's spot as my "go-to" gun, and I have simply named it "Ol-Trusty."

That's the one. The 98 is a Large Ring Mauser action. Earlier Mausers such as the 96 used a slightly smaller action called the Small Ring.

BTW, they only came in 270 and 30-06. 30-06s seem to be more common. I would love one in 25-06 or 35 Whelen, but both were wildcats when the Model 50 was made.

http://www.weaveroptics.com/mountcharts/default.aspx

Look above for mounts from Weaver.

I've owned a couple of M50's in .270 W and .30-06. All were great shooters.

Regarding the rear base hole spacing, it's my understanding that the earlier rifles had a 'normal' spacing but later(1956??) some genius decided to go with a spacing of .860. Talley makes a steel base with this spacing and that is what I have on my rifle.

I've made a few modifications to mine. These include replacing the barrel with a McGowan, adding a barrel band, modifying the bolt and feeding, reshaping/reinforcing the stock and changing the trigger to a Timney.

It's now a .375 Ruger and I have to agree with those who have reservations about the stock. Mine kicks like a mule but it is still a great shooter. The group shown was shot at 200 meters.

Hey, I recognize that rifle......a bit.

Nice job!

Ted

that is nice! I think you reshaped the bolt a bit too!

I have considered having the forend reshaped to a Rigby-typ and a barrel band too, but when I took it out of the stock and realized it was full glass-bedded, I took a Dremel and like 1-minute of time and had a fully free-floating barrel!

Thanks for all the help guys. I got the new Timney safety yesterday and installed it without issue, and ordered the Stocky lam. I loaded up some loads with Hornady H414 and IMR 4831, and used both Hornady SST 130gr bullets and Nosler Ballistic Tip 130 gr Spitzers.
For whatever reason, the gun seemed to like the spitzers much better. I couldn't get under 1.25" with the SST (surprising as those usually shoot excellent for me) and got 13/16th's with the Nosler, IMR 4831 with 56 grains of powder at 100 yards. Two of those were touching and the third might have been just my shooting skills.
Haven't put any factory loads through it as I usually try to find a custom load the gun will like.
I'm going to load up some more of those noslers with the 4831 and try again later.
Thanks to all for the info!

The original bolt handle was swept back. I had the gunsmith cut it off and replace it with a Talley-style handle. Much easier on the knuckles and more pleasing to my eye.

Between the link provided here - http://www.weaveroptics.com/mountcharts/default.aspx

and this chart you should be able to see what number bases you should get.

From reading your post it would appear to be a 45 and 46 but this gives you the info to be certain.

drover

W.R. WEAVER COMPANY MOUNT BASE SPECIFICATIONS
DETACHABLE MOUNT BASES
No. of Base Length Hole Spacing Diameter Thickness
11 .812 .504 1.290 .147
12 .812 .504 .925 .155
13 .812 .504 .730 .238
14 .812 .504 Tapered for Savage 99 only
15 .812 .504 .946 .195
16 .812 .504 .840 .205
17 .812 .504 .770 .219
18 .812 .504 1.050 .182
19 .812 .504 1.160 .125
20A 1.168 .860 1.360 .127
21 .812 .504 .710 .273
22 .812 .504 .700 .201
24 .812 .504 .900 .271
25 .812 .504 1.125 .248
27 .812 .504 .930 Tapered .161/.185
28 .812 .504 Flat .239
29 .812 .504 Flat .292
30 .812 .504 .845 Tapered .205/.230
31 .812 .504 Octag. .182
32 .812 .504 Octag. .357
35 1.168 .860 1.290 .147
36 1.401 .604 3.900 .272
39 .812 .504 Flat .165
40A 1.840 .860 1.290 .147
42 .812 .504 .730 .298
43 .812 .504 .840 .265
44 .812 .504 .770 .279
45 .812 .504 1.050 .396
46 1.168 .860 1.290 .222
47 1.168 .860 2.692 .368
48 .812 .504 1.290 .395
49A 1.058 Win. 70 in 375 H&H, 300 H&H only .368
50 4.500 .504 Flat-Tapered .200/.232
53 4.983 Win. 88, 100 1.290 .222
54 .812 .504 1.290 .222
55 .812 .504 1.050 .310
57 2.340 .960 1.220 .250
58 4.624 3.275 Flat .283
59 .812 One hole only Notched .366
60 4.500 Browning .22 Auto, H&R "Topper" .361
61 1.168 .860 Flat .360
62 4.430 Rem. 740, 760 1.290 .222
63A 6.125 Marlin 336 Flat .283
63B 5.450 Marlin 336 Flat .370
65 2.000 None Spec. * .322
66 2.650 None Spec. * .322
67 1.650 None Spec. * .332
68 .812 .504 .916 .399
70 5.900 Rem 600 1.290 .275
71 1.168 .748 1.180 .215
72 .812 .504 2.590 .376
74 5.723 Savage 24V 1.125 .275
75 1.168 .860 1.050 .310
76 .812 One hole only 1.050 .310
77 .812 .504 .700 Tapered .248/.267
78 .812 .504 .880 Tapered .171/.198
79 .912 .604 3.900 .272
80 6.125 .500 1.892 .147
81 6.000 H&R 360, 361 .946 Tapered .237/.252
82 6.000 H&R Topper 158C 1.050 .396
83 .812 .504 1.252 .250
84 1.168 .860 1.252 .250
85 1.168 .860 1.124 .275
86 .862 .555 .925 Tapered .366/.396
87 5.000 H&R 700 1.050 .400
88 5.900 Mossberg 500AS 1.500 .496
89 .862 .560 1.062 .347Fr/.301Rr
90 5.000 Marlin 39A .300Fr/.428Rr
91 1.400 .504 .946 .280
92 4.500 Thompson Contender Hand Gun .361
93 4.430 Rem 4/6/7400/7600 1.290 .222
94 .812 .500 1.124 .170
95 1.168 .860 1.124 .170
TO-9 4.750 Ruger 10/22 2.000 Tapered .155/.170
TO-10 5.00 Grooved for most 22's Spec. * .175
* Flat topped dovetail rib

Talley got back to me today, they have rings specific to the spacing on my model:
We do have bases and rings for this gun. 252730 is the base number.

Quite awhile back there was a NIB JC Higgins Model 50
on GB or AA.

Hey all, I wanted to spark this up again quickly as this rifle is driving me nuts.
I have two gun cases full of rifles. Everything from .22 up to 300 RSAUM. I've been reloading for years, and have played with powder/bullet/charge combinations in most of my rifles. In all of them, I have a "sweet" load that shoots better than the others. I've never had this kind of difficulty getting accuracy out of a rifle. I calculated it out tonight, and from what I've spent in a stock, scope mounts and rings, trigger, safety, glass bedding and powder/bullets, I could have bought a new rifle by now. It's that my father gave me this, that's why I'm trying so hard. I think I got a decent grouping tonight using reloader 22 and a recipe I found online that several folks seemed to like. I also bought a factory crimp die and crimped all my rounds too. I had 4 bullets loaded with the reloader 22, all the others were reloader 19 and performed horribly. I'm using nosler ballistic tips and hornady sst's, not exactly cheap bullets.
If you have any thoughts, I'd welcome them!
Thanks!