Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunting Rifles Tikka rings question

Thanks to some input from 24hc. I decided on and bought a tikka t3 in stainless. its in the mail, my question is rings for this. I see some rings out there that say tikka in the description. I have a few sets of rings,(burris zee and warne) that I thought I might put on, due to less than favorable reviews of the tikka rings.Will reg weaver style rings work?

Yes they will work and yes the factory tikka rings are junk.

Thank you sir,

If you chose to use the Tikka supplied rings, go out and buy some decent screws for them. The screws are more the problem than the rings. You can use standard rings with the correct bases, that are made by either Leupold or Burris. I have some Burris I would part with cheap if needed/interested.

Most guys like Talleys or Warne. I've had both and went with Warne, though the Talleys are lighter. Dednutz are said to be good too, but more money.

No regular weaver style rings will not work,unless you attach a weaver base.You need to get the warne rings made for tikka rifles.They mount directly to the groove.Warne rings are the best setup I have found for tikka's

I am 100 percent sold on the DNZ one piece mount for the Tikka. I am using a "Low" and it provides perfect clearance for my 44mm objective. It is the simplest, most robust, solution I have seen. Since this mount is one piece, there is now possibility of the front and rear ring being out of alignment. The quality is so good it is hard to believe the reasonable price.

If you are at all concerned with appearance, I'd steer away from the Burris bases: awful hunks of metal sold to fit the Tikkas. I'm sure RickyD would concur. The Leupold offering is much more asthetically pleasing.

I have found the Tikka supplied ringmounts to be okay in light kicking rifles. 30-06 and above, the rear ringmount will want to slide forward no matter how hard you torque those screws.

I tried Warne, Talleys and DNZ and decided to go with DNZ. My 2nd choice was Warne.

That was not my experience.

My first T3 was a 270 WSM. I began with the supplied rings to mount a 3x9x42 Kahles. I used it with those for about a year with no issues. I probably shot 200 rounds with those rings, with my load being a 130 TSX or Sierra at 3300.

After reading of others problems with the stock rings, I bought Burris bases and used Signature rings with it. At that time Leupold did not make T3 bases. That set-up worked good, but popular opinion got me to try some Talley lightweights. I didn't care for the gloss appearance of the Talleys and they were a little high, so I took them off and remounted the Burris set up.

After a rotator cuff surgery the 270 wsm and I parted ways and a couple of 6.5x55's T3's took it's place. I went with Warnes for the blued T3 to hold a 2.5x10x42 IOR and started with stock rings again for the stainless/walnut T3 for the VXII with dots. A set of Warnes popped up in the classifieds and the stock rings came off the stainless/walnut T3 and the Warnes took their place. One ring base screw gave up and I had to cut that lower mount section off to clear the way for the Warne.

Not really. They are solid and worked fine for me. YMMV.

factory tikka rings have worked just fine on my 270 t3

They've worked fine for me too. T3's are the tool of choice at my club's 300yd benchrest matches in the "factory sporter" class. Every competitor uses the factory rings.

With regards the screws that Sako use on thier Sako and Tikka Optilock mounts, they are purposely made softer than the mounts them selves.

The reason for this is so that when someone tightens them up "farmer tight" the threads strip on the cheaply and easily replacable screw, not the threads on the mounts themselves.