Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Gunsmithing Moyer Trigger For Ruger No 1 ?

I had my rifle re-barreled to 7 Ultra and was shooting it yesterday off the bench checking different handloads.I have always considered the trigger good enough,but I have to admit it's not as smooth as my Rem 700 triggers.I have 3 and they have all been adjusted to 3 lbs. by the same smith.I dont think he has ever messed with this Ruger trigger.<P>Question: Is the Moyer trigger very superior to the ruger? Can I install it?<P>This is strictly a long range deer hunting proposition,so I probably wont notice the difference while hunting.The PAC NOR barrel is so good,I want to see just how good.I got a .75 c to c 3 shot group at 100 yds.with it yesterday using 160 gr sierras.Most groups were over an inch to 2 inches,but I was having to call them bad because of the trigger.<P>Now I'm down to selecting best seating depth and I need to really hold 'em and squeeze 'em.

Gene, I believe it to be. I think the Kepplinger set triggers are better. For hunting it is as the trigger normally is and you are walking around with you standard safe trigger weight but when at the range working up a load for instance or getting ready to take that long shot on a deer you push the trigger forward to set it and the pull becomes whatever you adjusted it to be. They have a range of 1 to 3#. Something else you might try on your #1 to settle it down is to simply place a 1/8" thick neoprene washer between the hanger and the forend. This will relieve any pressure against the bbl created by the forend. George

Gene - I have one on my Ruger 1V and It breaks clean but the lowest I can set it is about 3 1/4 lbs. Me and my cousin installed it so that may be the reason . It is a very good trigger and the rifle shoots very good. I think it's great buy for the price. I use an o-ring between the hanger and forend, like George.

Last night I got to thinking.That's often disastrous,but I cant seem to stop.<P>Anyhow I figgered that I would have to remove the trigger group in order to replace it with a moyers.It seemed pretty elementry that if if I couldn't take the old one out,I was probably too dumb to put the new one in anyway.So I started.<P>First thing I saw was two screws right above the trigger,one on each side.The first one was loose,so I took it out.The second would turn but not come out.About then I figgered that this is some sort of adjustment screw and the other probably locks it in place.<P>I put the first screw back in and -the proof will be when I shoot it later today- I seem to have a pretty decent trigger.<P>Did a blind hog find an acorn? Is the trigger adjustment this simple on a NO. 1?<P>------------------<BR>Boone and Crockett was rednecks

I agree with George on the Keplinger set trigger...or just get the original done with a good trigger job.<BR>On the note of squeezing more accuracy out of the rifle, check out the Ruger #1 accurizer that is in the Brownells catolog.<BR>I KNOW they work well.<BR>heres a website to see more about it at<BR><A HREF="http://members.tripod,com/Hicksdesigns/" TARGET=_blank>http://members.tripod,com/Hicksdesigns/</A><BR>

Gene <BR>the trigger adjustments aren't on the side of the action... I suggest a look at the exploded parts diagram at this link- <A HREF="http://www.gunsworld.com/exploded_us.htm" TARGET=_blank>http://www.gunsworld.com/exploded_us.htm</A> <BR>-there are adjustments for spring tension(within the range provided by the stock spring) and there is an overtravel adjustment(trigger stop). One of the best things to be added to this rifle is the lightened hammer and the accompaning high tension spring. This combo really reduces the lock time to a minimum. The Keplinger set trigger is an amazing design but is quite expensive. Good luck from the gunnut69