Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Gunsmithing Replace a Rem 700 stock forearm pressure point???

Anyone know the thickness or how to replicate a now missing Rem 700 BDL Syn stock pressure point. Need to win this bet.
Thanks

2 words:

Neoprene O-ring.

A properly installed neoprene o-ring will give your barrel upward dampened pressure.
Jeff

A few turns of masking tape to lift the barrel the desired amount at the end of the barrel channel . Add a small bit of gel epoxy near the end of the channel. Reassemble, let harden, remove the tape, and reassemble again.

To be very clear, Matt bet that had I not removed the forearm pressure pad my very accurate 700 BDL SS DM SYN '06 would be as accurate. So I need to replicate as close as possible the pad for a test.
Thanks for the responses, appreciated.

It's a guess because they all move some and the distance twixt action and pressure point is great, relatively speaking.

I don't know how you could replicate exactly the amount of pressure that was there before.

I'd think you'd just have to try successive layers of tape, and shoot it. Then make it permanent with a dab of epoxy. When I do that I trim out a little rectangular space in the tape and fill it with epoxy. I'm a bit compulsive about such things, and it's just neater that way. Doesn't shoot any better, though.

Paul

IIRC, the Remington 700 BDL SS DMs all had 24" magnum contour barrels. I would think that, in general, that heavy a contour barrel would respond better to being free-floated then to having pressure at the front of the stock. I have found that a neoprene o-ring installed at the point where the barrel leaves the front of the stock will center the barrel in the barrel channel, if it isn't already centered, and the soft neoprene will cushion the contact between the barrel and the stock. This "trick" works really well on mannlicher stocked rifles.

Jeff

I'm not one that subscribes to pressure points. Something I noticed in all of our above posts, mine included, is that we are assuming that ones barrel channel is indeed centered or in perfect alignment with ones barreled action. In more cases that not, that is not true, even on some of my high end Weatherby's. While more difficult to create, a flat topped pressure point might avoid inducing lateral influences. Conversely, a point precisely fitting the barrel contour and centered in the barrel channel might be adding side pressure as well. Thoughts???

Couple ways to do it, taping the barrel is one. Here's another. After deciding what the pad should look like, I tape off and apply release agent where the pad isn't to be. I'll hang 5 pounds or so from the end of the fore-end, pulling the fore-end away from the barrel, and apply just a little more bedding compound than I'll need and assemble the rifle. Next day I'll disassemble and trim the pad to shape. Either method, you won't see the pad when the rifle is assembled laying the pad out this way.

Sometimes a 700 will shoot better floated, sometimes not. This is how I revert to "not" after testing floated. Long odds it's the same as before I removed the pressure point but it seems to work.

Because the fore end is the stiffer component and has the least consistent force required to bend it, think in terms of weighting the barrel (opposite direction from fore end) and letting the epoxy cure with the barrel flexed.

It will be far more reliable and can actually apply force. Most fore ends would show little to no deflection with 5 pounds force on them.

I think the first step is to bed the action with everything lined up correctly, then worry about pressure points. The recommended pre-epoxy or adjustable pressure points were typically two contact points on either side of the barrel about 30 degrees apart. That's about where the contact points were that I've ground off of 700 plastic stocks. The barrel contour pads get you to about the same place.

On stocks where the barrel channel might wander - wood - maybe a flat pad would work better, no opinion (yet). So far I've been happy with free floating with wood. (Except bedding about 2 inches ahead of the receiver for Mausers.)

Sitka, point taken. Though the 700 stocks I've dealt with flexed more than I expected. Still what you suggest is better.

I use paper shims and tested to see what worked best. Then added a bedding point forward of shims. Seems to be the most consitent way to find out what works on fussy rifles. IMHO I tend to change stocks more than most
and have spent a lot time trying to get rifle to shoot well after replacing stock. Have tried measuring up pressure then trying to get it the same. In the end usally go to shims to find what works.

Have yet to meet a 700 that did not shoot better using the Whelen glass bedding method. Back of recoil lug ONLY!. and first (back) 1" of barrel glass bedded. Rest of barrel free floated. Dab of glass at tang helps too and make sure action is not torqued by a warped stock. Make sure magazine is free floating (not touching floorplate). Torque screws properly and it will shoot.
On the plastic stocks it is also a good idea to route out the barrel channel and glass bed a threaded rod in there to stiffen up the floppy foreend. (Same is true with Hogue stocks)