Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Ask The Gunwriters Williams extractor?

Went to replace the extractor on a used model 70 stainless but it looks identical to the Williame. Same initials on the inside. I believe they were M R. Did the factory part have these too? Was the factory using Williams for a time?

The face of the claw on a Williams extractor is smooth. The original cast Winchester has two raised lines of steel.

I have a stainless CRF model 70 that naver fed properly from day one, I tried smoothing and polishing all of the appropriate surfaces in an attempt to improve it but is was still "catchy".

On a hunch I replaced the factory extractor with a Williams and now it is one of the smoothest feeding rifles I own. It took all of about 2 minutes to replace it. That is by far the best money I ever spent on the rifle.

drover

Scott

What part is the face of the claw?

Shouldershot,
To answer your question: yes, towards the end, New Haven was using Williams extractors on their rifles. Therefore, it is not unusual to find the William's extractors marked as you've indicated on factory rifles. I think what Scott is referring to as the face of the claw is the part of the claw you can see when you look at the boltface. The angled part that would face the chamber (when the bolt is pushed forward) on the cast extractors had some lines to indicate what type of extractor, either standard or magnum, that was used.
Test

Thanks. Gotta love this site!

Is the williams extractor supposed "jump" over rim when a round is put straight into the chamber (iow, not fed from the magazine)? I have one that will not jump over the rim. What do I need to do to fix this???

RH

Are the new FN M70 extractors cast?

Himmelrr,
The Williams extractor will push over the rim of a round already in the chamber, as will the cast ones from New Haven. I know this because I do it with my rifles on occasion, although I wouldn't make a habit of it since it can weaken the extractor. How to fix an extractor that won't do that is something I cannot answer. A regular poster on the Gunsmithing Forum and great all-around M70 expert is "Redneck". You might post over on the gunsmithing forum and I'm sure Redneck will get back to you. If you need anything done to a M70, his services are quality and quick.

Test

IF your going to insist on doing it wrong (dropping one in the chamber) rather than modifying the extractor, learn to open the claw the way it's creator (Paul Mauser) designed it to open on a chambered round, IE: simply press the bow section into the bolt body and close the bolt.

OCC- The new FN M70's are williams extractors.

I don't "insist" on doing it wrong, it is just that I am playing around with a 375Rug and I can only get two into the magazine. If I only feed out of the magazine, then I am limited to two rounds total. It would be nice to occasionally just throw one into the chamber and shoot. I haven't tried the Paul Mauser trick but I am sure going to try!

RH

Wow, is the mag capacity only 2 on the Ruger .375?

All you ever need is one shot..

First of all, the Mauser and Winchester extractors are of two different designs. Mauser's were never intended to be single fed, but the Winchester's were and will quite easily, so there's nothing "wrong" with single-feeding a Winchester.


If your extractor that you bought from me won't snap over the rim of the cartridge, there could be a few things causing this.
First, make sure that the extractor does not have excessive tension on it, preventing it from snapping over the rim.
Directions for properly tensioning the extractor are located on our Gunsmith's Corner section of our website.

If after properly tensioning the extractor and you're still having problems, then the next thing I would do is use a sharpie and paint the end of the extractor and try loading a dummy cartridge into the chamber a few times, until you see where the extractor is binding at.

Over the last few years I have seen our extractors fail to function after being properly fitted because of a couple of things.
One, the extractor cut that is machined into the barrel was not deep enough.
Two, the broaching of the receiver raceways were not wide enough to allow the extractor to flex out over the rim of the cartridge.
And three, there was a burr left over from the broaching of the receiver in the raceways that was causing a hangup on the extractor.

There was just once that the extractor groove was not cut at all in the barrel, which made fitting quite a pain as well.

If you get the extractor tensioned properly, mark it with a sharpie, determine where it's hitting, give me a ring toll-free at 1-888-257-3006 then we'll get it figured out.
If at anytime you feel as though it's more than you want to handle, feel free to make arrangements to send the rifle here and I'll fit it myself free of charge. Most times if I can receive it on a Monday morning, I'll have it going out that same afternoon.

Single-feeding our extractor will not weaken it in anyway, but it could break a casted part.
Our extractors in both steel and stainless variety will last a lifetime and not distort, nor break during the process of single-feeding.

The most abuse an extractor will encounter is the first time it is put onto a bolt. That is when it's receiving the most amount of flex, but you'll have no problem with ours in that department.

Thanks, Matt, I'm glad to know that. I'm also glad you got on this thread since I knew I was in over my head!! Much appreciated.
Test

I've got one of your extractors on a SA M70 Classic in 338 Jamison. Works good but not quite right. The claw doesn't have quite enough tension or reach to easily hold a cartridge when the bolt is out of the action. The old SS extractor was fine, yours isn't. Is the best "fix" to grind a bit off the boss? What's the best fix?

I would first make sure that the tension is correct. Having the extractor too straight in regards to running linear with the bolt would cause what you're describing.

We manufactured all of our extractors to be right in the middle of print, but tolerances can accumulate on the bolt and or receiver machining that can, at times, cause some problems.

All of our extractors leave here pretensioned, but that again is only falling within the middle of the print specifications. Sometimes they'll require a bit more bend to them to really make the feeding and extraction, as well as ejection sing.

Try putting a little more bend into the tail of the extractor and see if that doesn't fix your problem. Remember, it'll be pretty hard to mess it up, within reason, but it may take a couple of times of tensioning, checking, removing, and repeating the procedure again before you get it right.

As many times as this type of question has come up, I'm going to try and direct some effort towards setting up a youtube video of the process, which also identifies our extractor, as opposed to the factory MIM extractor.

I think laying out some BDL vs. ADL changeovers would be beneficial as well. Seems someone every week on this website is trying to figure out how to do that, or they're wondering what components are necessary to make that happen.

This is an old topic but i was wondering if the newer Portugal made M70's have the Williams extractor in them?