Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Bowhunting Broadhead thoughts over the last couple years

I've used a ton of broadheads in my life. Like most of us I have seen every single one of them work near perfect when the shot is perfect. It's really a lot about marketing with the names and the famous/ well known folks pushing a brand.

I cannot see one blade or ferrule design that is so far superior to any other that it would make any difference in the results if placed correctly. Broadheads are also quite expensive to try and test, and make decisions on.

Over the years much of my decisions have been made on which ones fly the best. Since they all seem to kill equally well, that was the factor that drove my decision. I met the guy from Slick Trick at a hunting show and tried those heads after speaking with him. To say I was impressed was an understatement! They flew exactly like field points even when windy.

I have come to some conclusions on broadheads. I want all steel, no aluminum. I have had aluminum ferrules break too many times. I want thick vented blades. My old razorback 5's flew with a wacky flyer now and then that could not be explained, and the blades broke inside several deer and a mountain lion. I don't like blades that snap or shatter. I shot all the zwicky, and Magnus heads too. Although performance was flawless, They also tended to plane on me at random. 20-30 perfect shots and one off in never never land. Was it me? was it the broadhead? Who knows, but it happened and I could eliminate that variable.

I used the slick tricks for a while with a feeling of being invincible with them. They flew like darts, and sliced through tough hide and even struck bone without breaking the blades. However I have had the threaded shafts break a couple times now. Out of maybe 50 animals shot having 2 ferrule shafts break is not high odds (4%) but I wanted to see what else was out there with the short steep blades that might offer field point accuracy with a bit more durability. There are plenty on the market but the strikers by G5 were the best most consistent of the ones I tried. All steel, thick vented blades, and a more stout ferrule then the Slicktricks.

I have now shot 10 big game animals with each in the last 16 months. ( the Africa camp, USA hunting, and my own culling of Corsican sheep on my farm) During that time, I did not have a single blade or ferrule failure of any kind. They both fly like field points, and they both provide flawless blood trails. No game was lost, and the furthest one traveled about 100 yards.

The G5 is a three blade the ST is a 4 blade. I've had equal blood from multiple species with each. The differences are:

The Striker provides a bigger entry hole almost every time. It's makes a gashing slice compared to the perfect 4 blade "puncture" of the Slick trick. I cannot explain or even fully understand this. The entry holes of the Striker are far bigger then the width of the blades. Somebody smarter then I am needs to chime in here and help me with this.

The striker penetrates a little deeper on average, usually tip of the arrow exiting the off side on Hogs and Elk. They exit every time on deer and smaller antelopes. The Slick trick exits 100% on smaller antelopes and deer as well, but does not always poke through the exit side. That 4th blade may add to the resistance issues getting back out of the body?

Visually the Slick trick has a better blade containment, but that comes at the cost of less steel and a more fragile ferrule. Visually the little locking tabs on the Striker do not seem like enough to lock the blades in place. However I have not ever,....not even one single time had the blades go missing or break off. So visually it does not look as good, but the engineering is clearly on track.

The alignment of the sharp tip of the Striker with the blades makes the Striker very much like a cut on contact head. Another reason that it may penetrate further. Or make a more slicing entry hole?

One advantage with the Striker is that the 100 and 125 grain heads are the same head. The 25 grain Brass spacer is the only difference. So what do I use or which is my "go to" hmmmmm I cannot say. I'm just glad I have both and they can be interchanged without out a single performance issue.

I think if the Slicktrick breaks a Ferrule first, I will quit using them and stick with the Strikers. However it there is a blade loss with the Striker first I may drop them first. For now, I have about 1/2 dozen of each and will continue to shoot both as I get the chance.

I've had the same experience with Slick Tricks - they fly great and put game down, but break ferrules. I had this happen when they first came out and took the time to contact the owner. I have a background in Material Science and Mechanical Engineering, so could tell him why they failed and what to do about it; never heard back from him. I've continued to shoot them, but have been looking at G5s for years - might be time to make a change...

Thanks for the test info JJ. I've been incredibly happy with Slick Tricks since you turned me on to them.

I wouldn't be opposed to trying a new head but I'm so happy with the STs, it might be quite awhile before I got around to it!!

Either way, it's nice to at least know that there are other comparable heads out there.....

I like Magnus Stingers.

There seem to be plenty of excellent broadheads to choose from. I found the Silver Flames and G5 Montecs to fly exceptionally well. I like the idea of a strong ferrule. May have to try the Strikers. The Ti 100s certainly ought to be tough enough!

I'm mostly with you except that I broke 2 of the original Slicktricks at the base of the ferrule. The original blades were crap also and it soured me on them though now I'm sure they are much better.



"I cannot see one blade or ferrule design that is so far superior to any other that it would make any difference in the results if placed correctly."

This statement is true/untrue depending on your equipment. A guy shooting 60#'s with a 340gr arrow needs a more efficient head design than my 72# compound shooting 470gr arrows. Thats the beauty of archery, you can utilize a more efficient [say 2 blade COC head] to max out a low efficiency setup.

And, not picking on you, like your posts, but yes if your arrow hits "the perfect spot" its best but sounds like you have shot enough animals to know that ain't always the case- animals can move. I plan for worst case. So what if most of my arrows are buried 12" deep in the dirt after going through the animal. In a worst case scenario, I have blasted through both shoulders of a 150class buck and out the other side....... and only buried 4" deep..grin.

I've used Muzzy's for the last 20 or so years with no complaints. Shooting traditional this year, so I'm going to go with a cut on contact, probably Magnus.

I put a Montec G-5 through a 5X6 elk last fall at a waterhole from a tree stand. My guide gave a soft whistle of approval when he found my arrow sticking 14 inches into the side hill after passing through the elk.

I was impressed with the way they flew too.

I have shot a lot of critters with various broadheads as well. I thought I had the holly grail when I started shooting Slick Tricks, until.....many ferrules broke off at the threads. I contacted Gary (they owner) and told him the problem with his heating process and the undercut last thread and the 90 degree cut where the arrow rests against the ferrule. He has still not corrected either problem. I lost all respect for him and his product.

I got tired of all the hype and BS with broadheads. I spent a fortune trying to find good heads. I finally engineered and created my own titanium 4 blade head. I am amazed at how well certain design features out perform other heads. It really is a science that I can't explain. It took a lot of trial and error, but I have an indestructible 4 blade head that flies like a dart. It hits the same point of aim with or without the blades. This is great for practicing in "field point" targets, then simply put the blades in and go hunting. After killing 7 elk and numerous other deer and smaller critters, I have a winner and no longer need to buy into the hype of other broadhead manufacturers. Flinch

Flinch that is great for you. However regular guys must still buy them someplace. The new design I have ( I have two much different broadheads here from Slick Trick) have never broken yet. I have been shooting them for several years and have strayed to other heads but always come back.

I simply cannot find fault with the Slick tricks. They are the best value in the silly expensive broadhead market today, fly with flawless fieldpoint precision and are strong as any broadhead made (for sale) today.

I'm sure you can design a stronger broadhead with specialty metals but when it comes to buying something readily available I'm sticking with the slick tricks

Flinch,

If you weren't running your own which broadhead would you go with??

I am also a fan of Slick Tricks and have been killing animals with them over the past 7 years with few complaints. Have heard many positives about the Montec G5's but haven't drawn any blood with them yet myself.

Guess I'm of the same mindset as you JJ ...... the Slick Tricks shoot well for me, kill animals definitively, are readily available and easy to fix in most cases.

Just another .02 cents and worth exactly what you paid.

JJ In your firstpost it sounds like you perfer the strikers IE bigger entrance cut and better penetration and stronger.
Then later you say you will stay with the slick tricks. Whats the story? Why? Thank's Dean

They are both awesome and I rather doubt that if an animal was hit with either that the results would be noticeably different.

I like that the Striker can be a 100 0r a 125 with the change of the collar, But I like that the slick trick can be a 1" or a 1-1/8" with a change of the blades.

Looking visually I like the blade interlock of the Slicktricks much better, but they are a bugger to get apart when blood dries in and on them.

The Slicktricks shoot better then any fixed blade broad head I have ever seen, Exactly like a field point.The Strykers are almost as good but I do see them shoot to the right more then they should, Maybe by an inch on average. I'f I'm grouping 2" at 30 yards dead center with the ST's the strikers group would be slightly to the right. Just about perfect with both.

They penetrate about the same, but the ST has 4 blades. I think there are several other blades that can do this or be in this category or design. If I could only have one I would take the ST head. But I would not feel handicapped if I could only use the Striker either.

OK, Thanks for the reply. Dean

JJ, fascinating post. I am experimenting with Magnus broadheads at the moment -- 100 grain 2 blade screw-ins (I shoot a 62 inch recurve at 50lb) for the upcoming deer season... if they do not work out I was going to try some Zwickeys... your comments on planing have caught my interest... question: do you believe that the occasional planing you experienced is severe enough to cause you to lose a game animal if you keep your shots inside 20 yards? How much stray from aim point were you experiencing?

That is a tough thing to give an answer to with certainty. Is it enough to cause the loss of an animal?

Well if it's just the planing and the shot was otherwise absolutely flawless under 25 yards yeah I think it would still get the job done.

However if your aim was not perfect, the angle not perfect, the "jump the string" event happened and then you plane just a bit, then no,... it's not very good. When everything goes perfect no problem but add one other variable and I'm not comfortable with the planing I have seen.

I have been trying these Razor trick heads by Slicktrick. Although I have not killed anything with them yet, the flight is identical to the Original and magnum Slick tricks. There are some advantages with these for lower powered archery gear. They are cut on contact and four unreal spooky sharp blades. These are certainly not bone buster tips, but they will slide right through anything I can imagine shooting. With the lower draw weight bows, ( I only shoot 63lbs) they will probably out penetrate the originals unless some solid leg bones or leg joint is hit.

Through the ribs, these will slide through before the animal even knows what happened. I'm quite a fan of the Slick trick heads and have been for a decade or so I guess, how long have they been out now? The new cut on contact design is fascinating to me because they fly perfectly. It's a cut on contact slick trick!

Same here....it's not broke so I am not fixin!!

i have nothing to offer except i am trying the rocky titanium broadheads and hope to have more to report when i connect but the data on these sound very promising...anyone ever try them?

I've killed a pile of deer with Muzzys but they aren't terribly durable when encountering bone or when they hit the ground. I've pretty much experienced failure of every part of the broadhead but it almost always resulted in a short blood trail.

I've got some Slick Tricks to try this year. They are about double the price of Muzzys but if I can keep from losing them, hopefully the durability will make up for the price difference.

Thanks for the thoughtful insights, JJHACK.