Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Africa All this rifle tuning stuff .....

Gents, I constantly read on this forum that a factory M70 or CZ550 isn't Africa ready and that they need tuned. Mule Deer says this isn't the truth, but many say at least $400 needs to go into the rifle to make it worth a trip to the Dark Continent.

With all this talk of tuning and such ... it needs to be tuned ... What needs to be done to the rifle to make it Africa ready (other than just being tuned)?? MD says he files a little and tweaks the trigger (doesn't sound like $400 worth of work), but where and what do you file?? What needs to be polished for smooth operation? Is a rifle who's action feels a little rough (from being new I assume) not going to pick-up the cartridge and not deliver it to the chamber?

I'm not trying to be a smart-ass, I am genuinely curious, since I've shot a .375 H&H at Boggy's Place it has me a little curious and I find myself reading the post's on these rifles with a lot more interest. Is one better off getting a used one that has been "broken in"?? From what little I have looked at them, there isn't a big price break buying used vs. new. I like the M70 (American maybe?) but the CZ seems to remind me of a serious big critter getter. CZ is about $200 cheaper new (discounting the SS M70 Classic which is similar in price to the CZ variant). What about Montana?? A cross between the CZ and M70? Not around long enough to determine their reliability? If I had a first choice it would be the M1999 in an Acrabond (Serengeti) stock, but that is well outta my price range (as would be the wood stocked M70 now). But good thing I'm not looking to buy now ... just day-dreaming ... time to get back to work!!

Not trying to be a smart ass either but if you can't afford to have your rifle looked at you can't afford to go to Africa.
Have you got any idea what Taxidermy costs are for African animals?
GWN

Yo Jack or is it smart (ass) <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />. I'm asking questions for edification. Not because I'm looking to load it up and head off tomorrow. I have an interest in the cartridge and the rifles used to fire them (thought that was clear??? ... maybe wrong). Everyone has been chatting about the tuning that is needed but there are on specifics. I'm curious about the specifics that need to be done to the rifle.

OldSarge has stated many times that a factory rifle is a starting point ... what needs to be done to make it to the finishing point?

And NO I don't have a friggin' idea what the Taxidermy cost are for African Animals, seeing I'm a decade from even possibly hunting there ... today's cost are of little concern to me ... right now I'm just trying to learn about the rifles. There has been much emphasis put on "Tuning" lately and I just wants to learn .... not all of us were born with this knowledge!

I suppose it depends as much on the individual rifle as anything. I have shot some decent rifles out of the box and some horrible.

The trigger is a mandatory IMO the rest is up to you based on the quality/ function you desire or expect.

I Have had both the rifles I own gone over by a great gunsmith. I'm glad I did it because it increases my confidence and the way they function for me. That's jut me though.

Let me suggest another circumstance. Any decent rifle is fine for deer around home. If you miss or have a problem the tag is cheap and the chances plenty. That same situation at 12,000 miles from home on the only opportunity you will ever have is another story!

JJ ... I'm not arguing or even debating the need for this (I am pretty ignorant in such things) ... but what did your gunsmith do? He went over it and it made you more confident (which is something I think most of want in our rifles) .... but what did he do to make you more confident in your rifles?

Thanx

I'm not a gunsmith and don't claim to know or even understand the details of the work. I do know that I replaced the synthetic stocks on both with Pacific Research stocks which are both far stiffer and much better then the silly "plastic" factory excuse for a stock.

He bedded and fit them to perfection, along with checking and remachining where needed the critical fitment between barrel and reciever. The muzzles were crowned and the triggers were set to perfection. The feed was checked and adjusted from the magazine to the chamber. Then the holes were re-drilled and tapped to accept bigger screws for the scope mounts. Maybe there was more but that seems to about cover the basics.

On thing about the muzzle crown. I insist on this with my rifles because they are loaners to many of my hunters. I know that they all do their best to take good care of my guns, but even so the muzzle is deeply crowned to protect the lands and grooves when it's bumped and banged around the truck or in the rocks while climbing.

Avagadro: There are always exceptions to the rule, but in my experience the norm seems to be about 50/50 as far as being ready out of the box. in TODAY'S rifles. If you define "Africa Ready" as safe and reliable feeding and extraction, Pre-64s, Weatherbys and Browning Safari Grades are the ones I've seen with a higher degree of reliability out of the box. My Ruger RSM in 416 Rigby, needed about 200 bucks worth of work, the bolt had a bad habit of "sticking" right at the last 1/4"of travel before going into battery. So, I also had the action honed, polished, etc and it is now glass-smooth and with perfect reliability. I don't own any CZ, but have handled and fired many. Great rifles and great value for the money, but every one I've handled the action feels rough and "sticky" for lack of a better term. I was lucky that my Ruger came with a decent trigger and the Model 70 trigger can be adjusted by just about anybody. Weatherbys are even easier to adjust. All you need is an Allen Wrench.

Out of the rifles mentioned, Weatherbys would not be my preference for dangerous game nor would any push feed for that matter, but suffice to say, a push feed would NOT keep me from using it on same.

Having said all of that, having your rifle examined and if nessesary tuned by a competent gunsmith is good headwork, especially if you are about to embark on a hunt twelve thousand miles from home and twelve thousand dollars less in your bank account. Finally, between the two rifles you mentioned, my clear choice is the Model 70. I think the stock design, trigger and overall balance is superior to the CZ. jorge

I'm with George on this. He shot my 375 with my so called elephant loads and it was a religious experience for him. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

He and I are just trying to figure out what the "tweeking" consists of and how to do it.

Let me list some things and you that have been there done that please cuss and discuss them. If you are a gunsmith or have done it you can tell how you achieved the goal you were seeking.

1 The rifle must feed reliably under duress. Positive feed no matter how fast you operate the bolt.

2 The rifle must extract and eject reliably under duress. Every time no dumping the empty case on top of the magazine.

3 The rifle must operate withhout binding in any fashion. Maybe kin to #1

4The rifle must fit you properly. That is when you slap it to your shoulder you should be looking through the sights without having to hunt around for the sight picture.

5 The rifle must hold its zero during rough handling. Baggage handlers, vehicle travel, vibration etc.


Any other thing? Thank you all right on for your comments. We are just seeking information. George may go to Darkest whatever some day, he needs to know and I am just curious. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />


BCR

You basicaly covered it boggy. They are basiclay making sure that the action is smooth and feeds as reliably as can be made. Small adjustments and polishing to guarantee it functions as perfectly as possible.

Basicaly your #1 and #2 is the goal. At least for a tool like JJ's.

Tex

Don't forget to make sure that the floor plate latch is engaging correctly. Might consider a heavier spring or if it is vulnerable to opening if it is exposed and bumped might want to have it pinned. I saw this happen on a trip to Alaska and it could have been fatal. The rifle was a MK V Wby. Another failure I observed was two years ago when a hunter was pushing through alders trying to finish a bear with a 700 the cocking piece rotated about 1/4 turn and the bolt would not close. Suspect it was a one in a million chance but brush must have hit it as he cycled the bolt. If you check several Remingtons, you will find some where the notch is not cut deep enough and the cocking piece can easily be rotated uncocking the rifle and it is out of comission...and its not easy to get it recocked in the field. Again potentially disasterous, but easy to fix if you know about it ahead. I am sure there are more just waiting to get me, but these two I know about first hand. BTW you don't have to go to africa to find plenty of dangerous things!

Lefty

Thanks Gents.

I purchased a Remington 700 custom KS in 416 Rem and took it to the range to sight it in. I shot it by single loading the ammo before each shot and it worked perfectly. Then I loaded the magazine with 3 round and found that it and problems feeding from the magazine. I took it to a smith and he smoothed up the feeding ramp so it works great. It is much better to find and fix problems at home than when you are spending $10,000 on safari or Alaska.

A good smith should be able to go over your gun with a find tooth comb to find and fix problems before they cause you problems in the field. Further more, he should be able to anticipate problems and modify your gun to prevent them from cause you problems in the field.

Conrad

Here is what I have done thus far to my new .375 CZ Safari Magnum.

Adjust the trigger, very easy since it is designed to be adjusted.

Glass bed the action. Not absolutely essential but it may help guard against stock splitting and help maintain a constant zero.

Used Brownells 600 and 800 lapping compound to smooth the action. This was needed and very easy to do.

Lubed the action with Brownells action lube.

Lapped the bore with JB.

None of the above was at all complicated. I did not install crossbolts to guard against the stock splitting but may wish I had if the stock splits as I have heard of some doing. I believe the glass bedding will be enough. I will also probably have to work up some sort of front sight as the factory bead is too small. I want one in ivory about 3/32 in size and CZ does not offer one. None of this involves significent expense except bedding if you can't do it yourself.

One additional thing - purely cosmetic. The trigger guard assembly sits too far into the stock. Glassing that assembly into place allows it to be level with the stock and look better so I did that too.

I almost forgot to mention that I was VERY unhappy with the standard stock on my CZ Safari Magnum and returned it for a fancy grade. What a difference!! CZ sent me a gorgeous piece of walnut in return. Of course I had to pay a little extra but was it worth it!

I finally got my CZ American 550 .375. I love the gun--Shooting it is a blast! The action does seem rough, and I need to adjust the trigger. I also want to disengage the set-trigger feature. Where can I obtain instructions on this?
rimshot

Just from curiosity, why do you want to disengage the set feature?

George,

This has been covered before in the Big Bore forum regarding M70s.

I might add if the Win 70 extractor is the cast unit, then it should be replaced with a spring steel unit from Wisner or Williams. The cast extractors are infamous for breaking.

The lastest production M70s have the spring steel extractor already installed, this coming from Matt at Williams. The latest production M70s also have a tighter fitting pivot pin for the trigger which gives a more consistent trigger pull. They also have an improved shroud to deflect gas in the event of a gas leak.

The safetys sometimes have problems, the detent pin sometimes needs to be polished or tweaked so it will function properly.

There are still alot of cast parts in the new M70s, the trigger, shroud and safety lever come to mind but its still a good rifle if tuned and tweaked properly.

The plastic stocks have flimsy forearms but a quite a few shoot suprisingly well with em.

There's alot more tweaks possible but these come to mind.

MtnHtr

JBD, define a little extra, please

"A little extra" turned out to be $168.00 including shipping. I guess you take your chances, but the stock I recieved is really extraordinary. If you like nice wood I'll bet you will be pleased. Understand though that they did the exchange on a new rifle just out of the box. I doubt they will work any exchange on a stock that has seen ANY use.

Sounds like a worthwhile upgrade!