Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Muzzleloaders What's the Best Way to Get Started

hey guy,<BR>its me again, can you help. I was going to try to buy a ML for this year, and i was wondering what is the best way to get into this sport? I was also talking to a friend and he just bought a .45 cal. ML, so what would you reccommend he use to get started. I was thinking of either a .50 or.54 cal which is best? what about the pyrodex pellets are they a good choice?<BR>anything you gan save will help me a lot.<BR>86

My boy and I both have .50 cal flintlocks. I can't tell you to much about caplocks or inlines as in PA only flinters are legal for ML hunting. Peronaly I dont care for inlines, and I hope PA does not legalize them.<P>Were I you, I'd check out the local sporting goods stores and make sure I could get .54 cal supplies before I made up my mind. Around here there isn't alot of .54 cal stuff avaliable.<P>One word of warning: I have alot of experience with cenerfire rifles and reloading. That dont matter at all with muzzleloaders, as they're a whole new ballgame. Find a good gunclub, or at least someone who's been shooting them to help you get started. This board is a great help, but there is no substitute for "hands on" guidance. Best of luck!<BR>7mmbuster<BR>Trust in God and Fear Nothing

I agree with 7mm on checking for the supplies available. Around my neck-o-the-woods you can get anything you want as long as it is 50 cal. I too have about 15 years of centerfire rifle reloading experience and pistol reloading experience but the front stuffers are a whole new ball game. Just as you would not use a softball in a basketball game don't take anything with you from your other shooting experiences to the muzzleloader scene. (except the universal safty rules! and be prepared to add a few!)<P>After the check at the local shop, I would recommend you take a look at the 50 cal caplocks either made by T/C or by Lyman. I would recommend the 50 cal because supplies and reloading data are very plentiful. Just like many people would recommend a 30-06 or 243 Win as a first big game rifle, I will recommend the 50 cal. I have two muzzleloaders both 50 cal, one a cap lock the other, a more recent addition a flinter. Knowing what I know now, I am glad I chose the caplock first. My opinion is that it may be a little easier to start with and therefore a little bit more rewarding.<P>I do not have any experience with the new modern inline BP guns so I will not, NOT recommend them. I will simply say, I prefer the more traditional approach.<P>As far as powder recommendations: (for the more traditional rifles) I would suggest you start with either 2f or 3f black powder and try the blackpowder substitutes later. MY OPINION: I find that black powder is easier to work with when trying to find an accurate load.<P>An important factor to decide now (you may have to think long and hard about this) is what twist barrel do you want? VERY IMPORTANT FOR THIS DECISION WILL AFFECT YOU CONSIDERABLY IN THE FUTURE. Why? Slow twist barrrels TYPICALLY shoot round ball and patch only accurately and well.(ie 1:66)<P>The faster twists will TYPICALLLY shoot sabots and maxi's well but not round ball and patch. (ie 1:28) (If I goofed this or made a grossly wrong statement please elaborate and help me!)<P>Based on my limited experience and some success, I would suggest a 1:48 twist because I have had good luck with shooting ball and patch, sabots (with no larger than 240 gr bullet) and maxi's (have shot from 250 maxi to 400 gr maxi) accurately in both my rifles. (both are 1:48)The reason I suggest this is because I studied and researched and talked to a bunch of people (before the internet was invented by Al Gore) and came to the conclusion that 1:48 should be a good twist for all purpose bullets.<P>hope this helps!

As stated earlier do alot of research before you buy, find someone with expirence to mentor you, ask alot of questions and check your Game Dept. many of them have minimum caliber regulations for different game animals.<BR>Beware, you won't quit with just one muzzle loaderand all things, un-related, will become mundane and irrelevent in your life. You'll end up going through life wearing a beard and saying you should have been born 125 years earlier. You will become fasinated with the way the American Indians did things. Leather will take on a whole new meaning.<BR>Don't take this lightly or in jest, think about your future not many women can live the life style you are proposing to enbark on.<BR>If after all of this you deceide to go ahead and get a smokepole, just remember 'ol Canyonman tried to warn you. So when your life goes to complete hell and your only friends haven't bathed in three mons. don't come crying to me.

There are many opinions as to how to get started. These are mine:<BR>Leave everything that you learned about modern weaponry at home. You will only need to bring the rules of safety with you.<P>Do your research: try to go to some local matches and see what they are using.<P>As to caliber, you will have to decide what you are going to use the gun for. The 50 caliber is the most popular around here. If I'm drawn for an Elk permit this year that is what I'm going to use.<P>As to the type of action: flintlock, caplock or in-line, I have shot them all and have at least one of each. Ten years ago I would not have said this but for beginners I recommend the in-line. If you find that you don't like this sport, in-lines usually have a higher resale value. I get more shooting enjoyment out of my flintlock.<P>As to the type of powder: Again its a personal choice based on availability and accuracy. The pellet powders (30 or 50 grains per pellet) are made for in-line actions.<P>Rifle twist: 1:28 shoot sabot/bullet best,<BR>1:66 shoot patch and ball best, 1:48 will shoot either of the above but shoot maxi-balls best. Best meaning best accuracy.<P>As to manufacture: I can recommend TC, no question. I have friends who recommend Lyman and am leaning that way for my next purchase.<P>I can tell you that this is most addicting sport you will ever take up. Your wife, if you are married, will have to take up a second job. You can't, too busy working up a load that has the best accuracy for the gun you shoot. Also, for the necessary accoutrements you will need. <P> <BR>

Not sure this is the "best" way to get started but it may simlpify things a bit.<P>First, buy Sam Fadala's Black Powder Hand book and read the damn thing cover to cover. Sure, there are some guys with lot's of experience who nit-pick with Sam over some of the finer points but the book will get you off to a safe start.<P>Second, decide on traditional or modern muzzleloading.<P>If you decide on traditional, I'd recommend a Lyman Great Plains Rifle to start with. <P>For a modern rifle try one of the Knight rifles.<P><BR>

Ditto Sam Fadala...Ditto Lyman GPR! Mistakes with black powder can lead to initial disappointment that will cloud your feelings toward the sport. So many who begin with the wrong foot, don't ever get in step because they feel the muzzleloader's performance isn't up to their standards. Shooting black powder is easy. Caring for black powder arms is easy, but developing a load, learning your weapon and proper care are time consuming. Whereas you might shoot 100 rounds during a range session with your centerfire, you might spend 5 hours and only shoot 30 times with your muzzleloader. But you'll be learning a lot about your gun, yourself and your shooting heritage. Good luck.<P>Dan

Dan:<P>Glad to see you over here. I just joined AO recently and have read most of your post and as usual, picked up some new ideas from you. This is a pretty good place to be, some very knowledgeable folks here. So take of your leathers, let the hammer down and stay awhile.<P>Rick:<P>I'm not familiar with you I don't believe but welcome. It is good to see new names around here.<P>Wall