Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Gunsmithing Rem 1100 issue

I've got an 1100 12 ga. that refuses to allow the trigger to engage the sear with the trigger plate installed in the receiver. If you remove the trigger plate, all works as it should. My thought is that the disconnector is for some reason raising the trigger arm too high when it's in the gun. The disconnector doesn't appear to have any abnormal bends or anything in it. Anybody have any thoughts on this?

either the bolt isn't fully closing(check your gas rings) or your interceptor latch is stuck.

Did this just recently happen?

First, make sure the bolt is fully forward and in battery. Next, lift the carrier and look into the action. The disconnector should be well up and behind the rear of the action bar which allows the sear to connect. Look for anything that might be interfering with the full upward movement of the disconnector.

Had the exact same problem when I first started fooling with these things, it was an assembly problem but I just can't remember exactly what and I don't have one here to play with. Foggy old memory says it happened when installing the bolt before installing the trigger plate. (There's always getting the owner's manual out and doing disassembly/assembly step-by-step with the manual.)

What Malm says... Something's interfering with full upward movement..

I'm wondering if someone didn't take the trigger assembly out to clean the gun and didn't put it back in the right way.

As I remember it, I had to wiggle my trigger around to get it in the right way. It didn't just drop down into the action.

It's time to take it to a gunsmith.

I never, in the 16 years that I had my shotgun, ever had a reason to take the bolt out of the action. A liberal squirt of foaming gun scrubber and it all came clean. I never even had to replace my O ring and it was the original O ring from 1974!

Sometimes - after a week or two of hunting in Golden Rod, after putting too much oil in the action, the gun would gum up, but it never refused to fire. As I said, all I had to do was clean it and put it back together and it was as good as new again.
The gun was a real rust bucket when I bought it. Someone must have stored it in a gun case under their bed for a couple of years before they got rid of it.

If there was ever a need or a reason to pull the bolt, this would have been it. That "O" ring belongs in the Smithsonian.

Finished end of season cleaning today and played around a bit. The only way I could get that malfunction is by not inserting the trigger plate into the receiver with the shell carrier down far enough for the disconnector to clear the interceptor latch. You need to stick the carrier deep in there before sliding the trigger plate forward into place so the latch can't interfere with the disconnector.

That must have been what I was doing years ago when I had the same problem. So much for foggy old memory.

Try assembling the piston and piston seal correctly. seen it a 1000 times

It's doing this on the bench, and I don't intend to shoot it until it's right. Thanks for playing, though.

Not the problem. Have seen piston and seal assembled incorrectly and the shotgun fired fine. One at a time.

To be clear the forward end of the disconnector should be above, as in towards the top of the receiver, the interceptor latch. If you don't insert the trigger plate carrier first and deep enough the forward end of the disconnector can end up under the interceptor latch which holds the disconnector down, in the disconnect position. It's easy to see the relationship between the disconnector and the interceptor latch if you install the trigger plate with the bolt, and possibly the link, removed.

Figured it out...someone had used an auto parts store oring for the barrel seal, and it had an ever so slightly larger cross section. Just enough to keep the disconnector from coming down and allowing the sear to engage the trigger. This probably means that the locking block also wasn't fully engaged in the barrel extension, so it's just as well that it wouldn't shoot!

LMAO.. Good - a simple fix and Malm was right.. I get a few people all the time who obtain the hardware-store O-ring for .50 and can't figger out why it won't work and/or last..

I know the Rem part ain't cheap - but they work AND they last..

Thanks for the update..