Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Handguns 45 Cal. for Bullseye and pin shoots? Sig or Kimber or other?

Looking to get a 45--one gun for both these uses--my 9mm and 38 spl. guns won't cut it for pin shoots as we have to clear the table, not just knock'em down. The 45 will give me a slightly bigger diam. bullet for bullseye too.

What gun would you guys recommend? Kind of leaning to a Sig (built well I believe) or a Kimber (based on rep).
Am I missing any other makes?

BTW, I HATE lousy triggers, and want something in the 2.5lb range or better with no or little creep, which probably means SA. Availability of target grips would be a plus. I also hate jams causing alibi's, though I don't mind a gun that needs to be well maintained and tuned to run right, so long as it runs OK when it is set up right.
Budget is about $1000.00, $1100.00 tops, new or used.

Any suggestions--makes and models please?

A base model Kimber Classic custom would likely meet your needs quite nicely. You would have plenty of $$ left over for a proper trigger job that would meet your 2.5# requirement.

Kimber has never tripped my trigger, so to speak. Many on here own them and they seem to be fine guns.

I've got a Springfield Armory Loaded model 1911. I think one of these would suit your needs nicely. http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=193337840

Yep that is the one I would go with as well. I must admit I built my pin gun/action pistol 1911 from parts though.

To do it today I would go with Coles recommendation. Also would not tune the trigger below 3 lb pull, that is plenty light.

I used to shoot pins every Wednesday evening. The handgun I used was a S&W Model 25-5, using a conversion cylinder for .45 ACP, and full moon clips. That 6 inch barrel was accurate and fast.

I should have said I'm specifically looking for a semi auto here--already have a revolver in 38/357 for bullseye and pin shoot revolver classes that I'm happy with.

What gun would you guys recommend? Kind of leaning to a Sig (built well I believe) or a Kimber (based on rep).
Am I missing any other makes?


Yep, The Glock 20!
Mine has aftermarket target sights and will clean a table faster than many 45s!
And still take out X rings when I do my part.

If you're handy, you could buy a Wilson Combat fitted slide and frame, with match barrel, for around $900.

Don't go crazy on grips or sights, and you're in the ballpark.

I shot alot of pins for years. It is a blast. I think it would be very hard to have one pistol ffor both disciplines.

I like a fixed sight with a full ramp for shooting pins. And the sights need to be about 4 inches high on the pin gun for best shooting. That just would not work for a Bullseye piece. The pin gun just does not need to be as accurate. And the trigger does not need to be as light also, just no travel.

Cycle feeding is more important in a pin gun.

Any slightly reworked 1911 that has a feed ramp to feed slow wad-cutters is perfect for a pin gun. Along with a good BoMar flat top ramp that is matte finished.

Just have the pistol sights set up where POI is 4" below POA with a full wadcutter load and you have a perfect pin gun. Tom.

Go on Gun Broker and look up a Kimber Gold stainless target, get a trigger job...you are done.

I like adjustable sights.

1911's I know but pin shooting I do not. Why do you want the sights set that way? I've never shot pins so I don't understand.

Just picture the shape of a bowling pin in your mind. Obviously the bottom part is fat and the neck is skinny. So you want the bullet to hit the fat part. But it is easier to aim at the skinny part(the neck). Aiming at a smaller area like the neck will allow you to be more precise in your aiming. Especially when shooting pins when you are measured by how fast you can clear two tables of pins.

The pin has to be knocked completely off the table, so you definitely want to hit the pin low-in the fat or meat part of the pin.

So put them together. Aim high-hit low. So you want your POA at the neck of the pin. And your POI at the fat part of the pin.

When guys aim at the fat part of the pin it is harder to hold in the center, and a side hit will not knock the pin off the table all the time. And that is why you also want a full wad cutter bullet. A full wad cutter gives you maximum meplat exposure to the pin with any hit--no ricochets. Tom.

Thanks for the tips guys--comments are;
I wanted a trigger in the 2 to 2.5 lb range as that is the range of triggers in my High Standard (Trophy) bullseye pistols. I am used to that weight, like it, and that way the 45 will have a similar pull easing the transition from the 22's to the 45 on bullseye league nights. Plus my current bulleye gun is a Smith 52-2 that also has a 2.5lb trigger, that would become my backup bulleye gun. I agree for pin shooting that 3 lb would be fine

Pin gun sights set to 4" high--makes sense to me that it's easier to aim at the thinner part--when I sight in a gun I often use 22LR 50' (small bore rifle) 9 bull targets at 50 yards as the bull is so small it is a very precise aiming point as would be the thin neck of the pin.

Went browsing for 45s the other day--saw a Colt Gold Cup in stainless, with box and papers that has already had a trigger job for $875 and a few other minor mods that I might pick up. I think I'll eliminate the Kimber unless find a used one, and the other choice would now be a Springfield with a trigger job based on advice here and some recent shopping.
Keep you posted with what shakes out.

Thanks all!

Makes sense - thanks

One quick note on the trigger weight for bullseye is that for a .45 1911 the minimum is 3.5 lbs for competitions. It wouldn't really matter for league shoots, but if you ever would shoot a match somewhere you'd have to tweak the legs on the sear spring to make weight.

Springfield would be the way I'd go as well, though I'd probably replace hammer & sear with EB parts during the trigger job.

Seems like a heck of a good price on the Colt gold cup. I don't have one, but have used my buds many times. Love it.

I either use a (real) Colt, or a Springfield. I have some rather rude suggestions as to where Kimbers "Schwartz safety" system should be (ahem) installed. Strangely, my Colt is a Series 80, but has a great trigger & has never had any reliability issues. If you must have a Kimber, look for one of the early models that don't have the magic designation "II".

I now await the pouncing & flaming by Kimber owners who haven't had an issue with their guns.

I just went through the same dilema. I purchased my first 1911, never owning one I narrowed my choices down to Springfield and Smith and Wesson. I ended up going with the Smith. I haven't received it yet so can't say if it is a wise purchase yet. I have read several good things about them though. I would look at Dan and Wesson also. Esox357.

I would never flame you about the Kimber's. It has been my experience with the Colt's that they operate very well, and function well. A friend and I bought two of the early Kimber 45's, and they also function flawlessly. In my experience the Kimber's were more accurate than the Colt's. And that includes a couple of Gold Cups. And IMO the trigger on the Kimber is better also. But I have not dealt with current production Kimber's. But the first ones were dandies.

I also shot pins for a while with a S&W 745-IPSC model. It was a very nice 45 Auto also. Tom.

I would not flame you for talking about Kimbers, mine does not have the II in the model...never any issues in 10K rounds, especially after I stopped shooting 231 and Bullseye powders that are dirty burning

For bullseye leage nights, you will need adjustable sights.