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[img] http://www.aimsurplus.com/product.a...n+vz.+24+8mm+Mauser+Rifle&groupid=12[/img] would this be a good donor action for one of these from midway, Adams & Bennett Barrel Blank 284 Caliber, 7mm Centerfire F34 Contour 1 in 10" Twist 26" Chrome Moly in the White. to make a .280rem
IF GUNS KILL PEOPLE, MINE ARE ALL DEFECTIVE ..... TED NUGENT
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�Nothing is so permanent as a temporary government program." -- Milton Friedman
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Yes it will work.
But with all military actions there is work involved in making them work and look good,it can be done.
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Defend the Constitution
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what type of work and how costly is it? thanks
IF GUNS KILL PEOPLE, MINE ARE ALL DEFECTIVE ..... TED NUGENT
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If you're looking to make a scoped sporter out of it the minimum you would need to do would be to modify the bolt handle by forging or welding on a new one. You'd have to change the safety to accomodate the scope. You'd need to get the receiver drilled and tapped for scope mounts.
To do a first class job you'd likely replace the bottom metal and add an aftermarket trigger.
Not to mention the barrel removal and fitting.
The Chosin Few November to December 1950, Korea.
I'm not one of the Chosin Few but no more remarkable group of Americans ever existed.
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It is kinda fun to do tho.
I did one 10-15 years ago. I had a gunsmith weld a new bolt handle on, screw on a new barrel, and drill and tap for scope mounts. Oh and had it bead-blasted and blued too.
I reshaped the trigger guard, restocked it with a factory second and glass bedded it, shaped the new bolt handle, put a safety on it, put a timney trigger in it. I benefited from a friend who had already done one and could help me avoid some pitfalls.
I am very happy with it, and it would be the last gun to go. Maybe because no one else would buy it!
Seriously, maybe I was lucky, but it fits me better than any other rifle and shoots accurate enough for as far as I am likely to shoot it.
I tried to remember how much I had in this gun, not counting the scope, but have forgotten, probably around $500 in 1995 dollars.
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I completely agree that it is a fun and rewarding job to convert a military Mauser into a fine sporter.
It isn't economical unless one can do much of the work themselves but you sure learn a lot about gunsmithing.
The Chosin Few November to December 1950, Korea.
I'm not one of the Chosin Few but no more remarkable group of Americans ever existed.
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good info, i may have to talk to you some more when i am ready to start the project
IF GUNS KILL PEOPLE, MINE ARE ALL DEFECTIVE ..... TED NUGENT
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We made a jig to hold our bottom metal in the mill to thin the trigger guard, we also take out the front hump, and on the really fine ones, mill and install a hinged Ruger M77 Style Magazine release. On the regular ones we either do an extended release or a shotgun tang style twist one.
The simplest sporter we do is reshape a millitary stock, cut back the 7 or 8mm barrel (returning and attaching the front sight if requested and removing the rear if requested), drill and tap, and stone the trigger.
I see no noticeable difference between the bold and timney triggers, but would like to try a NECG single or double set if I ever get money.
It also depends on what you want witht he action. Squared, trued and lapped can get costly. Do you want a wing style safety, 2 position milled or 3 position win 70 style
On the full blown customs we square the action, lap the lugs and raceways, remove and fill the charging groove and stripper clip hump, cut/weld/bend/shape a new bolt handle, lap the bolt face and polish/jewell the bolt. The trigger is a Timney usually, and the rifle is d&t'd
The bottom metal markings/stampings are filled and milled smooth, and the guard thinned, Sometimes we use the $400 Sunny Hill bottom metal if asked.
The fun thing about mausers if you can chunk together a truck gun, or finely shape a remarkable custom.
I've thought extensively on a F14 contoured 257 bob with a tiger maple mannlicher stock, High gloss blue, , single set trigger, 3 position safety, and talley mounts and rings, hinged bottom metal and the full works as far as action goes.
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If "cheap" were the aim...we'd all be shooting Lorcins!
A personal Custom Mauser is a GUN! I've always had one in my collection and always will. Yes, it's "Cheaper" buying a sporting rifle, than building a project, but there's a bit of romance to a "sporter" Mauser that can't be had with a Remington or WInchester.
Dan
"It's a source of great pride, that when I google my name, I find book titles and not mug shots." Daniel C. Chamberlain
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The problem with buying old Mausers sight unseen from wholesalers is pitting under the wood. For your 230 you can get either a junker or a nice action. It is basically a crap shoot.
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Yes, mine was pretty good shape metal wise, and I did not care about the rest.
The ONLY thing I would do differently is put 7X57 barrel on it. Just because it's a classic. The 30-06 is fine.
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We made a jig to hold our bottom metal in the mill to thin the trigger guard, we also take out the front hump, and on the really fine ones, mill and install a hinged Ruger M77 Style Magazine release. On the regular ones we either do an extended release or a shotgun tang style twist one.
The simplest sporter we do is reshape a millitary stock, cut back the 7 or 8mm barrel (returning and attaching the front sight if requested and removing the rear if requested), drill and tap, and stone the trigger.
I see no noticeable difference between the bold and timney triggers, but would like to try a NECG single or double set if I ever get money.
It also depends on what you want witht he action. Squared, trued and lapped can get costly. Do you want a wing style safety, 2 position milled or 3 position win 70 style
On the full blown customs we square the action, lap the lugs and raceways, remove and fill the charging groove and stripper clip hump, cut/weld/bend/shape a new bolt handle, lap the bolt face and polish/jewell the bolt. The trigger is a Timney usually, and the rifle is d&t'd
The bottom metal markings/stampings are filled and milled smooth, and the guard thinned, Sometimes we use the $400 Sunny Hill bottom metal if asked.
The fun thing about mausers if you can chunk together a truck gun, or finely shape a remarkable custom.
I've thought extensively on a F14 contoured 257 bob with a tiger maple mannlicher stock, High gloss blue, , single set trigger, 3 position safety, and talley mounts and rings, hinged bottom metal and the full works as far as action goes. what i would like is something in between a truck gun and a super custom.basically a trigger change, hinged floor plate, cheapest safety that is still reliable and functions well,put on a 25 inch barrel chambered in .280rem ,assure that it feeds nice, drill and tap for scope mounts, and bed it into a laminate stock that isnt to pricey. after that load with partitions , or accubonds and go forth to fill an ark
IF GUNS KILL PEOPLE, MINE ARE ALL DEFECTIVE ..... TED NUGENT
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The thing to consider is cumulative cost of the modifications you're looking for compared to just buying either a used Interarms Mark X, Remington 798, or the like action to work up from. These are Mauser '98 actions but they already have the safety and bottom metal taken care of, are drilled & tapped, have a good bolt handle, and are nicely finished.
I've priced this out on multiple occasions and it makes a lot more sense to go w/ one of these commercial actions than to start from scratch w/ a VZ24.
That having been said, it didn't stop me from doing to Czech Mauser in the past using one of those inexpensive A&B tubes and I love what I ended up with.
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just out of curiosity what threads are used in a remington 798 reciever.would a barrel threaded for a 700 or 7 fit a model 798 without rethreading?
IF GUNS KILL PEOPLE, MINE ARE ALL DEFECTIVE ..... TED NUGENT
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Nope, and the breeching is completely different between the two.
The Chosin Few November to December 1950, Korea.
I'm not one of the Chosin Few but no more remarkable group of Americans ever existed.
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Nowadays it seems finding a good action seems to be getting harder and harder, for a decent price that is.
As has been stated sometimes it is cheaper to just buy a factory rifle, but thats no fun.
I just had a 375H&H built on a VZ-24 action and I am sure I coulda found a factory rifle for less money but what the heck. Its built to my specs right from the get go. Sometimes its not about the money.
Now I have a FN commercial mauser action (H&H length) that I gotta figure what to build on.
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thanks guys, i am learning alot here and appreciate it
IF GUNS KILL PEOPLE, MINE ARE ALL DEFECTIVE ..... TED NUGENT
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If you really want a military action check out the upper right corner of this page. Dave at IT&D has a good rep around here, and this has always looked like a good deal... Douglas is vastly superior in quality to the A&B you're looking at, too... http://itdcustomgun.com/id2.htmlI purchased a Parker Hale 1200 commercial action here on the 'fire a while back and am sending it to Dave in Feb for a #2 taper Douglas chambered to 338-06, and then putting a Bansner on it as my elk rifle! WHEW HA! Good luck with your build; keep us updated!
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