Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunting Rifles featherweight rifles

Gentlemen...I need some advice...I want to build a min. weight rifle to use in the mountains, game to include deer, sheep and elk, from time to time...only requirements are mauser action (or Win 70), caliber probably 7X57...after that, I have no real preferences...So, here is your chance to help me build my (your???) rifle...any and all suggestions are most welcome. Thank you, Arthur

There are others much better qualified to help, but you need to supply a little more information IMO. What do you define as minimum wt. loaded, with scope? And, how much do you have budgeted for this effort? Wood, laminated, or synthetic stock? What degree of accuracy do you require? Finally, IMO, there are several better rounds for the purposes you mention. Specifically, when you get into sheep hunting, you need as flat shooting a round as possible since it is entirely possible that the only shot of the trip may be a long ways off.

Let me supply more information...and I appreciate the effort on my behalf...weight as low as possible...say near 7 1/4 loaded and scoped...willing to go to a bigger cartridge but action/recoil become limits...don't care about stock material...money is only money, always can take out second mortgage, but I want a really good rifle when all is said and done...I know, I know, take off some weight, get in better shape...all of this I am working on...by the time the rifle is done (and paid for), I will be there....Arthur

I think the 7x57mm is a good choice given you want a mauser or classic M70 action. The current 'short' M70 classic has a 3.1 inch max magizine length. The max COL for the 7x57mm is 3.065 inches. Also a lot of good 7mm bullets to chose from plus factory rounds.
<br>
<br>I would try and line up a short M70 classic, even if you have to order a barreled action new. Next forget the factory barrel, send to some place like Pac-nor and have them true the action and mount thier lite wieght barrel (20 to 22 inches, your choice) in 7x57mm. When you get it back have it shipped to McMillan and have matte one of thier stocks to the barreld action. The feather wieght model may not be a bad idea. If the action and barrel are SS you can just have it bead blasted. If Chrome molly you will need to have the metal finished.
<br>
<br>As for optics go, I like fixed, but you are talking about a 'mountain' rifle and the 6x42 Leupold would be my choice. Rugged, great optics and never worry about what power to use. Just my thoughts on this.

Hi Arthur. I built a couple of custom rifles last year.
<br> One of which is a custom .25-284. If your interested in it's details, see "Attention Eremicus" is the older posts.
<br> I was a 7X57 user for many years. I understand the round.
<br> I am a sheep nut. They are very seldom shot at long range. Pronghorn yes. BTW, I've got a B&C Pronghorn (84 4/8 pts.) that I took with my 7X57.
<br> First, I suggest a lighter action. How about a SS Ruger Mk.II. Same extractor, ejector, and bolt stop as the 98 Mauser. 3 position safety, and CRF, of course.
<br> I've got nothing against the M70, except it's weight. At 45 ozs. , it's pretty heavy. The Ruger would go about 38 ozs.
<br> Then a 22 inch Pac-Nor Lt. Mtn. countour barrel. 32 ozs.
<br> Since it is a short action, and you like the 7X57 ballistics, how about a 7-08 ?
<br> Then, a McMillian Sako Classic stock, 30-32 ozs.
<br> Ruger rings, 5 ozs., and a 3-9X Compact Leo., or a 4X leo. Another 9 ozs.
<br> I make that at roughly 7.25 lbs. Sweet. E
<br>

Arthur: How much of the work will you be doing yourself?Or, will you be farming it all out? Are you hard set on 7x57 (which is a classic choice )or would you consider .280 Rem which has a bit more zip?
<br>Doing it yourself from the top down :
<br>Scope : optimum, straight 4X, if you go variable 1.5-6 or 2-7 (there is a weight gain when you go variable). 4X is enough for any hunter who can shoot even in the mountains.
<br>Mounts: two piece steel bases, steel rings,top of the line, you might consider getting the screws oversized.
<br>Trigger: get the factory job properly set to 3 -3 1/2 lbs, properly stoned to be crisp and predictable every time.
<br>Barrel: I wouldn't rush to replace a mod.70 barrel. Virtually every mod.70 barrel I have worked with gave excellent accuracy when bedded right. I am talking 1/2-5/8" for 3 shot groups. The standard m-70 fwt barrel is near ideal for balance although it can be reduced further if you wish. My preference is chrome-moly but go stainless if it's your choice.
<br>Stock: My choice would be French walnut and I wouldn't accept any piece of plastic or fibreglass/kevlar in the world. If you must go synthetic then Brown Precision, MacMillan, or Rimrock are all superior. Brown requires more hand finishing. All three are strong and have good lines combined with minimal weight. The Rimrock has good camo patterns and effective checkering as does I believe the MacMillan. Glass bedded minimum, pillar bedded if you really think it gives you the ultimate edge.
<br>The term mountain rifle means different things to different people. I prefer enough weight so the rifles settles in a bit when I am physically stressed (that's darn near every time I hoist myself into the pickup these days). I also want a reasonable length of barrel to get some efficiency out of the cartridge so wouldn't consider less than 22" on a long action nor over 24". A taller man may want more. The fact is, if twenty guys were to post on this you'd get more variations than you believe possible. In the end build/have it built to suit yourself. You'll save more weight in judicious selection of your clothing, boots and possibles than you will in trying to take the last ounces out of a rifle.
<br>As an aside the m-70 I've used for nearly 50 years has a front ramp with Sourdough and a williams foolproof which fit in place with a tiny bit of filing under my 3X Leupold. Never had to call on it but it is most reassuring to have (they were actually my primary sights for quite a few years before I got the scope) A lot of mountain game was taken with the metal sights and if you are horse backing they make a smaller lump under your leg than a scoped rifle.
<br>stocker
<br>

Arthur. If my first idea doesn't fit, how about a factory Win M70 Featherweight with a McMillian stock. I've got one in .308 that scales 7.5 lbs. with a 4X Leo. You could buy it as a 7-08 as well.
<br> What I did was go to an ADL style gun.
<br> It balances on the front reciever ring, but carries only 3 rds. in the magazine. Very nice. About $440 with all the stock options I ordered. E

Arthur
<br>
<br>We can produce our Ti series titanium action rifles
<br>with a CRF claw extactor system. If you would like
<br>more info please email me at:
<br>riflesprairiegunworks.com
<br>
<br>Ross

E:
<br>
<br>I'm not going to argue about sheep shot distances, but I was basing my comments on 2 of my friends who are very serious sheep hunters last 3 animals, one shot the closest of the two at 465 yards and the other, in Russia, at 538. The other shot a stone, last day of hunt, weather had been bad at 395 yards. All distances lasered. All one shot kills. So, they ain't all close.
<br>
<br>PS First guy uses a .264 Win Mag in a pre 64 M70, second uses a Shilen DGA 7mmRM.

I'm not trying to get into any arguements either. But, (the classic "but" !) I've "hung out" with lots of sheep hunters for a long time. I was the 2nd vice president in the Society for the Conservation of the Bighorn Sheep for several years, for instance.
<br> There are cases where long shots are called for. The Marco Polo Sheep are sometimes shot like that.
<br> My information is that most north american sheep are spotted at very long ranges, and stalked to close ranges. If they see you first, your had. The minute they loose sight of you, they move. In hunted populations their flight distances are often on the order of 800 plus yards. E
<br>

Arthur
<br>Nothing against your actions but when I get ready to build a lighweight mtn. rifle it will probably be on a stolle kodiak action without the magazine port. Ill build it in one of my favorite cartridges a, .284 win. The reason to eliminate the repeater is to eliminate the oal constraints of the magazine and I've never had much use for extra rounds in the gun. I'm suprised how fast a single can be reloaded. I get 3150 fps. with 140 gr. ballistic tips in a heavy barreled stolle panda at 24 inches. The panda rifle weighs 13.5 lbs. My next project will be on the light side. If i were stuck with a repeater action I would lean to a 700 in 7-08. Just a thought

This is an interesting query so can't quite leave it alone. I know some of you fellows like short actions and short cases so I'm going to present an argument to stay with the long variety. Permit me to refer to the traditional English heavy African calibers. Those old boys used large heavy bullets in large cases and kept their pressures down to enhance dependability particularly in light of the high air temps they might be hunting in.
<br>
<br>Now I know you can take a short action and short case and load the living daylights out of it and get pretty impressive performance at high pressures. Been there doing that to some extent.
<br>
<br>Mountain hunting often involves high trip cost and if you're using a guide the sky's the limit. On top of that being in the mountains is likely to mean spare ammunition is hard come by especially if you choose to use a Wildcat Slammenbanger or uncommon magnum.. Luggage gets lost in transit, horses fall off mountains , packs get lost and things can go wrong without warning.
<br>
<br>Funny though, almost any guide camp is likely to have a spare box of 270Win, 30-06, 7mmRem Mag, 338 Win Mag and a couple of other calibers as well including the short 308 Win.
<br>
<br>In the past I've guided a hunter who had a freezeup after the first shot due to overzealous loading.He beat the bolt open with his boot heel and shot a box of the outfitters factory the rest of the hunt. I've also had one fellow who had a case head separation in a Wildcat. Claimed it had only been fireformed (shot once). He finished the hunt using a spare camp rifle.
<br>
<br>So guys my vote goes to a standard full length action and case loaded down to reduce pressures a bit rather than to the max whether it be a standard case or a belted magnum.
<br>
<br>Dependability, repeatability, replacement of ammo are critical to remote hunting if you want to avoid a dissapointment. Small towns in the north are not good places to find uncommon ammunition.

I can't buy proper ammo,for 8 out of every 10 rifles I own,in ANY town. I'm not afraid of the dark either.(grin)
<br>
<br>Though I can understand the concept,I've never subscribed to the theory.
<br>
<br>Idiots are going to be idiots,regardless of what is stamped on the barrel shank. You can't save them,from themselves.............

Stocker, I would somewhat agree with you if I could find over the counter ammo that shoots as good as my reloads. Nothing like a little biitty group to help my confidence. I don't have anything against long actions for magnums but don't have much use for the long action 06 family when I can get it done with a short. As far as availability is concerned, I have one rifle that will take factory ammo and you can't find it everywhere. Lost luggage would ruin any trip, whether it included my boots, coat, pack, ammo, or yes gun. Ship ahead of time. Keep in mind this is a featherweight thread. Short magnum? Hmmm

I have no problem with reloads either.
<br>They're all I've used for nearly 50 years. The point I'm trying to make is that you can get accuracy without making the primers pooch out like Toby the mules butt when a strong packer really bears down on a diamond hitch rope. Sometimes a little less can be more.
<br>Refer to earlier post re: featherweight means different things to different people.

My .02 worth:
<br>
<br>If you're really going to build a lightweight rifle from the ground up, I'd not use a Mauser action, but rather a short action Model 70 or Remington 700 (most like ultralights seems to be built around 700 type modified actions). Rebarrel with a featherweight contour which would be around .550" or a bit less at the muzzle 21 to 22" in length. Purchase a stock from either Brown Precision or High Tech Specialties--they run about 20 oz or so, use Weaver bases (aluminum) and those "ugly" rings you often see at WalMart-they are strong and light. Forget a floorplate and purchase either a compact variable or a fixed power (6X?). Use a lightweight sling like those sold by Uncle Mikes. I see no reason why you can't get a rifle for under 7 lbs. As far as a caliber? I prefer 7mms, my preference for a short action, featherweight would be a .284 Winchester (if you reload), if not, a 7mm-08--if you chose to go with a 7x57 look into the Model 70 short action-you should be able to squeeze a 3.000" and maybe 3.100" cartridge into. All with 140 gr. high quality bullets that prove to be accurate, there are a bunch out there that would work nicely.
<br>
<br>Going to these lengths might cost more than you anticipate so purchasing a ready built rifle should not be ruled out. Winchester sells a Model 70 Compact, Remington has the Mountain Rifle, Weatherby has the Ultralight, Ruger has a compact also. How about this for a final thought, purchase a Model 70 in 7mm WSM, use the aforementioned Weaver bases and rings, install a compact scope with a Brown Precision or High Tech Specialties stock with a blind magazine, have it either bead blasted and blued or tefloned. The options are endless....................I guess it just depends on how much you want to spend on your "dream rifle".

I'm sorry. But in the almost 48 years I've been around scope sighted rifles, I've seen lots of mount problems. No aluminium anything, or Weaver rings, for me. Only the strongest, like the Dual Dovetail system.
<br> If you want light, strong mounts, try Dave Gentry's mounts and rings. Three ozs. in SS. About $135. E

You couldn't GIVE me an aluminum mounting system. If your scope doesn't stay looking,where your bore is pointed,you have a broken rifle.
<br>
<br>I'd heartily side with E's recommendations,despite the weight increase,you'd have piece of mind...............

Arthur
<br>Your definition of featherweight and mine are vastly different, so let me describe a couple rifles that I think would do what you want them to do.
<br>
<br>My wife's 7mm-08 is built on a SS remington model seven barreled action, with a gorgeous burly, curly, western bigleaf maple stock, 2x7 Leupold compact scope, and the magazine reduced to a single round carried on a bed made of the loop side of velcro tape. It has enough push to get the cartridge up when needed and the extra wood allows the action area to be slimmed down a bit more. It weighs 5#12oz with 2 rounds in it, with a sling. It shoots extremely well, particularly when you take into account its extreme light weight.
<br>
<br>With 140gr Noslers it almost equals a 270, but with better bullets.
<br>
<br>The other rifle is a 98 mauser in 7x57, with an original military stepped barrel. The stock is some of the wildest myrtle I have ever seen, and very easy on the eyes. The same trick substitutes velcro loops for a magazine spring, box and follower.
<br>
<br>It weighs a bit more than the 7mm-08 and does not shoot quite as well, but it is quite acceptable, particularly if someone was foolish enough to believe that CRF really made a difference;-) The barrel is only 19 3/4" long, so velocity suffers a bit. Also, for some reason it does not seem to like partitions, but loves 154gr hornady spire points in the 2700fps range.
<br>
<br>The new Remington 700 titanium might be worth considering, if you are willing to lower yourself to using a plastic stocked wart.
<br>
<br>best of luck, whichever way you go!
<br>art

For standard stuff there is the Ruger Ultra Light and Compacts at 6 pounds! One in .270 Win would be a sweet mountain rifle. I think they are "Mausers".
<br>
<br>For me a pound or so in a rifle is nothing to carry. It's the total load and if I get a problem with my boots or whatever. As Finn Aaguard said. You don't carry a rifle to carry it, you carry it to shoot it so I would bring a 8 lb or less rifle. But that's my opinion.
<br>
<br>Stocker has a lot of good advice about reasonable standard loads and redundancy. As a mariner I know that back up is very important when things go wrong. I like like personal cartridges too but I would bring my Ruger #1A in 30-06. This is rifle that stays sighted in, shoots one moa and has iron sights.
<br>
<br>I would also bring some tools to fix stuff with.
<br>
<br>I like the old Weaver mounts. I have had a 4X mounted on a .358 Winchester for 36 years and its still on there doing it's job. But for a trip far from home the steel rings are worth the weight.
<br>
<br>I feel no need for a custom rifle. I have them. I have done that. Better to shoot a rifle for a few years and get to know it.