Home Forums Hunting & Shooting General Big Game "Long Range" techniques. (rangefinders & such).......

This is a discussion of techniques/mechanics,not an ethics class. If a shot over 100yds,makes you queasy,scroll along.....<BR> Phil Nash,posted a question in this regard,on the Rangefinder thread. Here is a description of what works for me,and why. First off,I'll address the time factor. I can go from spotting an animal,to knowing the range,and feeding my scope the info,in way under 30seconds. Mere seconds often,because I've already removed my turret cap. Some of my scopes,don't even wear a turret cover. It is a drill I practice ALL the time. I never shoot from a bench,except when confirming/establishing a zero. I always shoot from field rests,during my practice sessions. That consists of sitting,prone,or an aid of some type. Most often, the aid is a rock,my pack or something similar(like shooting sticks or a bipod). Anyhow,I have all pertinent info regarding a shot,affixed to my rifle stock. My drop info,is expressed as whole minutes of angle(MOA) and 1/4 minute portions,thereof(1 "click"). I break down yardage,into 50yd increments,until the distance warrants more precision. From there,I break it down into 25yd increments,or extrapolate data(splitting the difference,between the 50yd increments). Whatever the technique,it is still easy to do. I also have data,for winddrift,using 10mph,as a base line. Anything I deem greater than that,is multiplied by the appropriate factor as wind is proportional,though drop is NOT.<BR> To start things off,I zero my rifles,so as to maximize their respective chambering's potential. I zero at a SPECIFIC range,all is based off of it. Obviously,the more intense(flat shooting) the cartridge,the more distant the zero range. That allows me to make 95% of all shots,without scope adjustment. Depending upon cartridge,that will take me to 400yds. From the distance I have dropped 8" below my zero,I correct via the turret. My pet long range wacker,is the 257Wby. I zero him at 300yds. To do that,it requires being +2.00" at 100yds. That makes sense to me,because at no distance from my muzzle to 300yds,do I need worry about striking too high. The bullet then strikes only -6.6" low,at 400yds. No correction required,via the scope. From that distance on,I correct,via the elevation turret. See what I mean? Due to a combination of a flat shooting cartridge,employing a fairly high BC projectile,and maximizing those capabilities,with a sound zero range....I've covered 95% of all shots,I'm likely to take. 400yds,covers MUCH real estate....<BR> So I range the animal,if the distance strikes me as being "longish". I'm a much better judge of range,due to owning multiple rangefinders,and confirming my guesses. If under 400yds,I paste crosshairs on him. If over that distance,I bump the elevation turret. The amount of correction required,is entirely dependant upon the chambering. 500yds,with the above mentioned rifle,requires 3.5MOA(three whole minute numbers and two "clicks"). 800yds,is 11MOA. One revolution on a Leupold scope,is 15MOA,so it is way less than one revolution,to strike out to 900yds(a far stretch). It is very precise,very fast and quite easy to master. The mechanics of making the shot,is the subject of another discussion. Wind is dealt with,in the same manner. Practice,is what enables one a great deal of consistency and a short time for set up. Both are important to me,that is why I shoot all the time(besides it being FUN)........

Big Stick, <BR>I have two different long range techniques. First, for big game, I shoot a 7STW. 130 Barnes X,83.5 RL22, for a velocity of 3550. 2.5 high at 100, 2.2 high at 200, dead on at 300, 6 or 7 low at 400, 18 low at 500. So out to 500, further than I care to shoot, I do not have to daylight a deer or elk. If I hold on the back line I will not over or under shoot. I line up on a shoulder always. But for coyotes I have devised a different system. I shoot a .243 in a Sako action, Pac-Nor 26" barrel. 70 grn Sierra HPBT. I bought a Burris Ballistic Mil Dot Scope. Also have a Nikon 800 rangefinder. Between the two I can fairly consistantly hit coyotes out to 4 or 500. Thats about the end of my range, and I damn sure miss a few. Thats what I have going now, and until the price of the higher quality rangefinders comes down, thats as good as it can get for me.

Big Stick, Quick question. Where do you like to cary your rangefinder? I have tried round the neck, but it interfears with my binos. I have tried in a pocket but with different garments it is sometimes in different places. I have settled for a case on my packs belt. The top opens quickly and quietly, but over all it is not as accessable as I would like. Just curious.

Thank you for making it understandable. I would imagine you use the elev turret the most. At what windspeed does a bullet drift? Is a 1 mph crossbreeze enough to change poi at 400 yds? Does it double at 800 or have even more effect because the bullet is slowing down? This is great! Is there somewhere that I can find a chart that shows the drop of different calibers and wind effect?

JoeCabela,when covering big distances,it resides in a sidepocket within my pack. If a critter worthy,catches my eye. The pack comes off,the rangefinder comes out and I shoot off the pack as a rest. On shorter treks,it is in my daypack,again in it's own compartment. Same thing,pack off,get range,use pack as rest......<BR> Phil,any wind,will induce drift. The amount differs depending on windspeed,and velocity/BC combo. The above mentioned 257Wby,drifts 10" at 400yds in a 10mph,full value crosswind. Half that amount,for 5mph,twice the amount for 20mph. Wind is the most important criteria,as it takes nothing but practice to gauge. The range can be weighed mechanically(rangefinder),the wind comes from between the ears.......<BR> CCW,I use mil-dot reticles. They are FAST. However,as distance grows,you lose precision. One mil,subtends 18" at 500yds,that is like using a 18MOA dot,for 100yd precision. TOUGH to do........

Phil,I forget to address your last question. Warren Jensen has a ballistic program,on his Lost River Bullets page. I use a PACT,ballistic computer. But ballistics is simply physics. Whatever source you use,you MUST proof the data on paper,at all distances. This twofold, Determining the program is accurate,secondly that your scope system tracks accurately. I think Warrens website,is {www.Lostriverballistic.com}. The ballistic program is called "Ballisticator". Punch in your bullets characteristics,altitude,wind,etc. It will give you an idea,of how things are done.....

Big Stick, Are you familiar with the Burris ballistic mil dot system? The two horizontal lines and the upper vertical have a regular mil-dot. The lower vertical is set up with several additional crosses that are calibrated for certain calibers and/or velocities and each gives a definate aiming point for a given yardage 100 through 700. You just find the load and bullet that matches this and you're off to the races.

Big Stick, Are you familiar with the Burris ballistic mil dot system? The two horizontal lines and the upper vertical have a regular mil-dot. The lower vertical is set up with several additional crosses that are calibrated for certain calibers and/or velocities and each gives a definate aiming point for a given yardage 100 through 700. You just find the load and bullet that matches this and you're off to the races.

CCW,oops. I didn't read your post accurately. I'm familiar with the ballistic mil-dot reticle. It is much more suited to small sized targets at extended range. I was in the "regular" mil-reticle mode,it ISN'T as well suited,to that task. How accurately do the hash marks,correspond with your load. Have you had troubles,in that regard?......