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Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,561
Campfire Regular
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Campfire Regular
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,561 |
FWIW, when I set up a F/L die, I set it up to full length resize the case, including the cam over needed to completely F/L resize. Then I make a flat washer out of flat stock that will fit around the body of the die. I put that between the lock ring on the die and the top of the press. Dime or nickel thickness is about right. With that in place, I am PFLRing the brass. When it becomes hard to chamber, I remove the washer so's I can F/L the brass. This keeps me from having to keep adjusting the die (and stripping out those little, bitty set screws). Great Idea !!! what flatstock are you using? I'd like to give this a try, seems to me all you need are maybe a couple and you're good to go.
Men ocassionaly stumble over the truth from time to time but, most pick themselves up and hurry off as if nothing happened.
- Winston Churchill-
NRA Endowment Life Member
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Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 10,653
Campfire Outfitter
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Campfire Outfitter
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 10,653 |
FWIW, when I set up a F/L die, I set it up to full length resize the case, including the cam over needed to completely F/L resize. Then I make a flat washer out of flat stock that will fit around the body of the die. I put that between the lock ring on the die and the top of the press. Dime or nickel thickness is about right. With that in place, I am PFLRing the brass. When it becomes hard to chamber, I remove the washer so's I can F/L the brass. This keeps me from having to keep adjusting the die (and stripping out those little, bitty set screws). Great Idea !!! what flatstock are you using? I'd like to give this a try, seems to me all you need are maybe a couple and you're good to go. Like stillbeeman said...I purchased flat washers from a local Case-IH tractor dealer parts department. 2 1/4" outside, 11/16" bolt hole size. Had a local machine shop machine the washers to .001 surface tolerance and 4 or 5 smaller thickness.
You're Welcome At My Fire Anytime
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Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 2,065 Likes: 1
Campfire Regular
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Campfire Regular
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 2,065 Likes: 1 |
@StillBeeMan and MathMan I'll have to try that. Thank you.
HaYen
Remember, not everyone has a happy ending, so be happy when you can
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Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 406
Campfire Member
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Campfire Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 406 |
There are as many theories as to which is "better" as there are reloaders and just as many ways of doing it...bottom line is "whatever" works for you is good for you and maybe not so good for someone else.
I use Redding Comp shell holders or grind the bottom of my dies or set headspace correctly in the rifles I build in the first place...and Savage nut system solves that problem fairly well...I even used barrel nuts on a couple of Rem's and Rugers and left off the nut on as many Savages...just to see...but the easiest and quickest is to use the comp shell holders or grind and be within 0.002" shoulder setback which is plenty for all except maybe competition. I DON'T partial or neck size only for ANY of my rifles...for my purposes both of those methods are unacceptable.
Part and parcel of this game is "playing around" with different "things"...bullet seating, sizing, powder and other components, dingle-dangles for our shooters, different types of crowns, barrel lengths, and all the rest.
I don't think there is any really "right/wrong", "best/worst" etc, just different levels of subjectivity and requirements.
Try'em all.
Luck
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