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While looking for info on .410 reloading I found a site which described forming metallic .410 shells from 303 British cases. Here's the site: http://www.endtimesreport.com/410reloading.htmlIt sounds like fun and I was wondering if anyone here has experience with this specifically or with metallic shotshell reloading of any gauge (or caliber). I've been reloading plastic shotshells since high school, and rifle and pistol for about 15 years but have never dealt with metallic shotshells. Any tips, warnings, or interesting stories that you have would be welcome.
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The Freewheeling Tony Smith Gunsmith/Machinist/Engine Builder
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I tried the 303 Brit. game. I didn't like the result nor the hassle. As I recall, some split in fireforming. 444 Marlin brass is much easier if it fits your gun. It does in both of mine. Regards, Woody
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Thanks for the tips Woody1. It's always good to hear from someone with actual experience. I've already purchased some 303 cases so I'm going to give it a try.
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The Freewheeling Tony Smith Gunsmith/Machinist/Engine Builder
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FWIW - Loading .444's for the .410
Assuming we�re using fired cases, check to see if they�ll fit in the shotgun. If not they�ll need resizing at some point.
De-prime any way you can, even to using a homemade punch from a 16d nail. Re-prime using an appropriate shell holder and large rifle (or pistol) primers.
Add appropriate powder charge for � oz. .410 load. Top powder charge with overpowder wad seated firmly against the powder with a 3/8" dowel. I cut my own wads from cardboard boxes ranging from primer boxes to cereal boxes using a homemade cutter. I then add one or two more cardboard wads lubed with bullet lube and top with a styrofoam filler wad cut from a meat packing tray. Again, seat wads firmly. Note, no seating die used. With a little finger finesse, the wads can be inserted individually and run down inside the case with the dowel.
Add shot and top with an overshot wad, again, homemade from card stock. The overshot wad can be sealed with most anything from Elmer�s glue to waterglass (the old way). In addition, if desired, a slight bevel can be added to everything by running the loaded shell into a .308 size die until it contacts the shoulder. This also resizes the case sufficiently that it always fits in my .410's.
I wrote this up for another forum. Maybe it'll help you. Regards, Woody
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Thanks again, that's exactly what I was looking for.
Huntin' season yet?
The Freewheeling Tony Smith Gunsmith/Machinist/Engine Builder
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I'm wanting to take this same approach in making 45 Colt shotshells that extend to the mouth of the cylinder. How much undersized would the 444 cases be when cut at 1 5/8"?
Also would a mylar or teflon wrap inside the case be a good idea to protect the shot from rifling, or does it use up too much shot space? Thanks 222
Socialism is a philosophy of failure, the creed of ignorance, and the gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery. --Winston Churchill
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Sorry about the late reply. Been gone. I don't know how the 444 would work in a 45. Seems a little small when I look at the cartridge dimensions. Something like .470 vs. .480 at the base. I don't have a 45 anything so haven't tried it. As far as the wrap for the shot, it might reduce deformation. As you say, it would reduce an already small shot charge but only testing would tell. I doubt you'll be able to tell as it's my opinion that the rifled barrel throws the charge wide at short range and will negate any other attempt at longer range. FWIW If you want a 444 case or two or three to try it, holler. Regards, Woody
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