Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Ask The Gunwriters Leupold erector springs

ironbender,

Yep, those are the instructions with the Talley rings. I have checked them out with a good Brownells torque wrench, and the little Talley Torx wrench works fine.

Ironbender, that approximates what John was saying, I think I will re -mount one without squeezing the blood out of it. I wanted to zero 2 of them for the BLR 358 for my trip to Kenai. I have never had a scope die on a hunting trip before---but my name is, after all, Murphy! (I wish they had named that law after Jones or Smith!) Murf

This part got my attention.

You do realize that the hash marks on most m8 scopes are NOT 1/4 moa? right?

From what I recall, they are 1 moa between each hashmark ,so YES they are a much "coarser" adjustment than most any new scopes.

Doh! That's where I read it.

When is that?

Fred maybe did not answer you completely....the Kahles is a great scope,and comparing optics (for my eyes)I was hard pressed to choose between the optics of those and the Swaro PH, Summit scopes that we had the few times we compared all three....I like the Kahles a lot, but the Summit mounted up better for me on the rifle I wanted to use it on.

Just as a suggestion with your 4X for your range testing......shoot a 10" black bull at 300 yards, and put a 3" flouescent orange dot in the center for contrast; you will find this is just about blotted out by the reticle,and will help you hold more precisely.

I have shot some teeny 300 yard groups doing this with a 4X.

Jim, I probably should have stated that another way. What is happening is that with the 4x scopes, I am having fliers that I do not "call" out of the group. Sometimes these shots are 4 or 5 inches away from the others. Then the subsequent shots will go into a group where the flier shot. After a few more rounds, it will pitch another flier, and the same thing happens all over again, all without moving the adjustments! Kinda expensive when you are tring to zero a rifle with Triple-Shocks, or Noslers. But you are correct, the 4x Lupys do indeed have very coarse adjustments. thanks, Murf

Hmmm...it's sounding less like a moving erector spring to me. I don't see how the erector could mess up by that much for one shot, then pop right back into place for succeeding shots.

Which is why I'm suspecting over-torquing of the ring screws. I've seen similar symptoms from Leupolds with the ring screws torqued "farmer tight."

I agree.

The other reason I suspect over-torquing is that it keeps happening, with multiple scopes, even after sending them back to Leupold.

Are all your cases the same head stamp/brand name? It sounds like you are mixing head stamps on your ammo more than anything. 4 inch fliers aren't a scope issue, unless they wander all over the place all the time.

I have seen guys mix head stamps MANY times. I have accidentally done it myself and wondered why I got an extreme flier.

Whenever you get a flier, check the case completely (trim length, flash hole issue, lopsided neck etc.). Keep track of that case and either pitch it or load it again and see if it "flies" another one.

My dad and I were shooting a .30-30 contender a couple of weeks ago. His groups at 75 yards were about 5 inches. I told him he has to keep his head stamps separate if he wants to hit anything. He basically said, "B.S.". I wanted to prove my point, so I segregated out the Winchester, Remington and Federal brass (all loaded the same). I proceeded to shoot 3 separate 3 shot groups (one with each head stamp) at the same target. I had 3 neat little 3/4" individual groups. The 3 groups combined measured just under 5" total outside to outside at 75 yards. My dad is a believer now. I have seen factory ammo vary over a foot at 100 yards with the same bullet and weight, just different headstamps. Flinch

Another thing to check if you are using the Redfield style of scope ring bases are the screws that hold the rear ring by clamping it to the base between them. I had several bases that the screws were too long and bottomed out inside the base before really tightening the ring down allowing the rear ring to shift randomly around causing fliers. Take the ring off and tighten the screws until they bottom and measure across the screw heads then install the ring and measure again. Should be a bigger measurement when the ring is installed if the screws are the correct length. Caused me no end of problems until I found the issue.