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I recently purchased a .45 cal. flintlock muzzleloading rifle built in Spain and imported by Kassnar. I bought the gun for hunting in PA, where blackpowder hunting is flintlock only. The rifle is a "Kentucky " style with a 30" Bbl. There is nothing on the gun to ID the maker except what I previously posted above. Does anyone out there know anything about this rifle? I've been around firearms my whole life and I am a certified instructor for my local PD which is also my employer. I've fired muzzleloaders before, but that was some 20 years ago out at Philmont Boy Scout Ranch in New Mexico. What kind of powder should I use and how many grains. I bought balls and Sabot projectiles as well. What is the basic loading technique for such a weapon. I know that the powder gets put in first, followed by a patch with a ball fitted in the center. The patch needs to be lubed, what do I use? As you can see, I am a newbie and in need of some guidance. Any advice will be appreciated. Thank you!

Sgt George,
Only because not much help is being offered here, will recommend the following:
Visit www.muzzleloadingforum.com and review the many suggestions offered. If desiring additional information, feel free to post your questions in the appropiate section.
As with the people here, you will find them to be great bunch of folks, eager to help.
Best Wishes

Sgt. George:

Your rifle most probably was manufactured by Aceros De Hispania, in Spain. In this link there is a picture of their Kentucky Rifle. You can go to their home page and obtain an address to write for more details.

http://www.aceros-de-hispania.com/gb/infer.asp?ac=10&trabajo=listar&pa=armas


I would strongly suggest that you invest in a couple of good black powder muzzle loading books, one by Lyman which will give you all load data and another by the old pro Sam Fadala:

* Lymans Black Powder Handbook and Loading Manual
* The complete Black Powder Handbook by Sam Fadala
* Muzzle Loading by Toby Bridges

There is a lot to learn.

It goes beyond just shoving a patched ball down the muzzle:

Briefly, you can shoot traditional black powder which is not easily obtainable because many stores do not carry it due to storage restrictions. Or Hodgdon Pyrodex substitute for black powder of Hodgdon Triple Se7en which is much cleaner burning with less residue.

Youll need shooting patches, linen is best, cleaning patches, balls, a variety of accessories, possibles bag, powder measure, powder flask, powder horn. You'll need to know how to clean out the flash hole, how to prime *( FFFFg ) and what to use. How to knap a flint. How to install a flint. How to clean the rifle and preserve it.

You'll need to know the aerodynamics and trajectories of round balls and their limitations and terminal energy.

So far as loading is concerned I suppose you know that you cannot use smokeless powder at all. And that black powder and the substitutes have different weights and powers so they are never measured in a scale by weight but rather by using a powder measure by volume only.

You'll need to know how to handle a mis-fire *( soak the barrel in water for 30 minutes before fishing for the ball or other obstructions ). How to use the various retrieval accessories to remove round balls and patches.

Mid-South Supply is a good source and Cabelas has a 2005 Shooting Catalog that has just about every thing you will need.

Good Luck:

Bill Tibbe

sgtgeorge,

Thus far, you've gotten some excellent advice.

Re: your "kentucky flintlock", it doubtfully has faster than a 1-in-48" twist, and likely either that twist rate or 1-in-66". As a result, sabots are very likely out as an accurate projecticle. You may find some of the lighter solid lead conicals in .45 cal. that could shoot well, and it's quite likely that the patched roundball is your best overall bet. Varying patch thickness (from .010" to .015") and ball diameter (anywhere from .440 to .452") can affect your accuracy, positively or negatively, as can varying the type and amount of powder behind each patch/ball combination. Trial and error with your rifle is the only way to find out for sure what works and what won't.

As far as patch lube, I'm a BIG fan of T/C's bore butter. Great stuff, either as a lube for dry patches or via pre-lubed patches. And, their pre-lubed patches do come in various thicknesses, precut, prelubed. One less thing to trouble with when learning...

Also, on powder and flintlocks, you will likely find that real blackpowder works better; i.e. more reliably. Pyrodex can be harder to ignite, as can 777. Stay away from pellets, they quite likely will not receive enough spark from the flashpan for 100% reliable ignition.

With a .45 flinter, you might find that FFFg in both the pan and for the load is a good way to go. Otherwise, the FFFFg priming and FFFg load is a standard because it works.

If you have trouble with the ignition, ask around for help, but check the size of the vent hole going from the pan to the bore, and check the flint/frizzen to make sure that you're getting max spark from that end. Two common problems, with relatively easy solutions.

SgtGeorge, Texas Parks and Wildlife has a little website on Muzzleloader Basics. You might want to check it out. http://www.tpwd.state.tx.us/learning/hunter_education/homestudy/muzzleloader/
One thing they don't tell you however, Muzzleloaders are addictive!