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"Level of experience"...that is ALWAYS the problem...WHO are you speaking to...this being the WWW it is also "WHO" are you speaking to...there are as many "bad guys" out there learning "what the he** and why" as there are "good guys".

This sport is inherently dangerous no matter WHAT level you're at. I always have those considerations running around the "little grey cells" when posting information...OR reloading...and a very BIG reason I don't post my loads other than the basic powders and other components...and all that stuff is already available and I have no control over how it is used.

Besides what load works in my rifles doesn't mean it will work in yours and vice versa.

One very good example of being "too experienced" and "OK in one rifle but NOT in mine"...I'm having a tough time getting a 1-8T 6mm-284 to shoot straight...I've had several previous 6-284's so it's no stranger to me...I've wasted 8 new necked down Norma 6.5-284's with loads that are below the middle of the range with ONE firing...the primer pockets expanded and one blew gas out from around the primer... and the bolt was locking almost to the point of digging out the soft hammer.

Two good things...it is a strong Rem XP-100 action and I fitted the barrel with only 0.002" headspace...and I lapped the lugs to 95-100% contact and use bolt grease.

This is with RL-22, RL-25 and Retumbo powders...I couldn't believe I was blowing primers with such slow powders in a 60 gr case.

NO WAY should this be happening with new brass especially Norma and at loads 3-4 gr above Hornady and Sierra reloading manual beginning loads.

I took the barrel off yesterday...make a chamber and 4" of the barrel casting. I already measured the base and shoulder with a light bullet, beginning load.

The neck came up 0.285" which is WAY over SAAMI standard or 0.280" and the barrel at 0.242" which is about 0.0015" TOO SMALL, but which fits an old box of Nosler 95gr BT's which measure 0.242" OD...which is probably the cause of the high pressure with the Sierra 107gr and Hornady105's that measure ~0.2435" ...my other 6mm rifles all measure 0.243" to 0.2435" and all shoot normal loads into bugholes and NO strange pressures.

The few I did chrono were showing 200fs more than manual loads for the same weight bullets and powders which gave me a clue, but I thought my chrono was acting up.

I'm a very experienced, very long time reloader but I was committing every WRONG thing a beginner might make...TOO MUCH EXPERIENCE can cause you to do wrong things just because you discount items many times without thinking. I was seeing the danger signals, doing what needed to be done but untill I pulled the barrel I wasn't looking quite hard enough in the right direction....MY BAD for sure.

Hopefully someone will read my confession and learn from it. blush frown eek

This can happen in ANY caliber or case...and is the reason I say start low and go slow...If I had started at the top end I might have had to really hammer out the bolt then send the action to Rem for a new bolthead and bolt lug reface.

Luck

GB1

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Sounds like Murphy's Law caught you flat footed on that one.

Any idea how that combo came to be, i.e. loose neck, tight bore? When you're blind sided like that, you're caught. At least you had enough experience to know how to ultimately figure it out.

You make a good case for caution and playing by the rules, regardless of how many years we've been reloaders.

Thanks for sharing that one.

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In a short barreled boltgun I'd consider the 450M.


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Photos from m3taco of his 450M/45-70 collection. Description below photo.

DF


[Linked Image]

Left to Right: 1. Marlin 1895 in .410ga with full choke 2. Marlin 1895M 450Marlin, ported and converted to pistol grip stock with Nikon 3-9x40 SlugHunter BDC scope and Wild West trigger kit - this is the one going with me for the PH course. 3. Wife's Marlin 1895G 45-70, ported with Nikon 3-9x40 SlugHunter BDC scope and Wild West Trigger Kit. 4. Marlin 1895G 45-70, non-ported with Wild West Trigger Kit. 5. Marlin 336 in 35Rem (NIB unfired). 6. Remington SPR22 DBL rifle in 45-70 with Nikon 1-4x20 scope. 7. Siamese Mauser (1st one) in 45-70 with Leupold 1-4x20, full floated heavy conture barrel and bedding action - This is the one that took the Mountain Zebra in the background. 8. Ruger 77 (tang safety) in 450M with fluted stainless barrel and Nikon 2-7x40 scope. 9. Custom pre-64 Win Mod 70, blueprinted action, Timney jewel trigger, stainless half octagon-half round barrel, barrel band sling swivel, pillar bedded barrel and action with front cross-bolt and Leupold 1-4x20 scope.




Another view of guns on Zebra skin couch under magnificant set of horns.


[Linked Image]

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Taco,

I believe my favorite is your Pre-64 M-70.

Great collection.

DF

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DF:

Thanks for posting those for me.

Yea, that Mod 70 is VERY VERY sweet. The guy who built it told me what he had in it $$$ wise and what the guy who commissioned put down - nearly 3/4's. Why the guy never came back to get it had us both scratching our heads. The smith only wanted to get out the outstanding balance and I really did get it for a virtually a song. I wasn't that crazy about the laminate stock in the photos, but once I had it in hand...and shooting it and the way it performed on plains game, it has really grown on me. The crazy thing is, it was listed on GB twice with no bidders!!! Wish I was as lucky at the casino's!! (LOL)

The two SM's that are at the smiths should come back pretty sweet too. The one that is being fit for my wife has some very nice wood and might just be the nicest of the bolts - and she was deadly with it before it went to the smiths.

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We need photos of the SM's when you get them back from the smith.

I like the laminated stock. When you do photos of the SM's, put the M-70 in the mix for a closer look.

Thanks,

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Will do - may be a while. The shop (Cole's Gun Shop) is known for it's work, but as most really good places they are not fast. Called them last week and so far (6 weeks in) they have shortened the one's barrel, filled (micro welded) the old iron sight holes in both barrels and have both stocks "soaking" to remove the old finishes. Still have the Gentry safeties to install, turn the barrels in the lathe, float and bed, Timney trigger on one (other already has one), front cross bolts on both, bed the scope bases, new recoil pads, re-blue and refinish. Long punch list to go but they should be very nice once done.

Why am I going through all this? Well, if you really want to take full advantage of the 45-70/450M capabilities (pressures/velocities) you only have several choices: a) Single shots. b) BLR's. c) Custom bolt action conversions d) Live on borrowed time by running over pressure loads in existing factory lever actions.

Another alternative is to move up in case capacity to 458 Win Mag/LOTT and load down with the retained ability to move up significantly above 45-70/450M capabilities.

For me....guess I just love the 45-70/450M. It has proven to me that it can and does accomplish and conform to the size of game I like to hunt at the distances I like to hunt. Within the next few years I hope to use it on Buf and El once the new solid bullets prove out on large body plains game. If I was going to make a career of African DG hunting I would be moving into the 458 Win Mag/LOTT territory - but I'm not, so I don't. Besides, I kind of like having the odd/unusual "stuff".

Kind of off track, but I remember reading a post/story some time ago where a guy started using his 45-70 for prairie dog hunting out west someplace. He said the PD's were getting wise to he and his buddies high velocity PD zappers and just popping their heads out of the hole so that just their ears could be seen. The poster/story teller said he happened to have his 45-70 in the truck with 405gr+ bullets and decided to try it as kind of a PD "bunker buster". Said he would aim so the bullet would hit just in front of the hole an inch or two and it would blow the PDs completely out of the holes - top half anyway. He claimed to have gotten really good with it out to several hundreds of yards. I thought it was good for a laugh. Anyway......

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taco

Do you have any experience with a Gibbs Summit converted Lee-Enfield to .45-70? I always wanted one, but they seemed to have dried up.

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Croldfort:

No, sorry I don't. My knowledge of the Siamese Mauser came about strictly by accident and they ended up tweaking my curiosity/desire for a 450 Marlin bolt action conversion.

Willing to bet someone on here has knowledge/experience with the Enfield conversions.

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I have to chuckle, another levergun forum gone to the bolt heads. Well, here is a moments reprieve, returning briefly to the topic at hand-leverguns.
Ultimately, no 45-70 fanatic will ever admit that the 450 is an improvement over "their" cartridge. VG point about the rim difference, with the nod going to the 450 again.
Similar is the constant rehashing on many forums of the evils of porting. For the record, the ports on the guide gun do a great job keeping the gun pointed in the right direction for fast follow ups, something that will not be acknowledged, either.
The guide gun is really nothing more than a further evolution of the short rifle. In levergun terms, the short rifle is NOT a carbine, it is in fact a full size rifle with a short barrel.
Finally, the 450 gives great credit to the 45-70. It would not exist without its parent round, yet it most certainly is an improvement.
And now, back to bolts...

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Mak:

Your probably right - though the OP's original question was 45-70 vs 450 Marlin and didn't specify in a lever action or even Marlin lever action vs BLR, it was asked in the "Big Bore Lever" forum,and yes, the responses, did ...expand beyond the "lever action" only realm.

Maybe on the positive side, this expansion of info it might have helped point out the LIMITS both cartridges have based on the ACTIONS they are used in and can maybe put up some "caution flags" for those who mistakenly think both Marlin actions are the same and decide to try hand loading 45-70 (in Marlin 1895 actions) to the same pressure levels as a 450 Marlin in the 1985M Marlin action. Nothing bad might not happen for a long time, but at some point continued use of over pressure loads will cause metal fatigue/failure and it could be very bad for the shooter and anyone standing near them.

I personally like my Marlins in both calibers. I must because I've been using them to hunt in the US and Africa and decided to take my 1895M over all my bolt guns in the upcoming PH course in South Africa in 10-days. I also like and appreciate the increased performance level and "pointy end" bullets bolts can safely take both cartridges to.

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Originally Posted by Mak
I have to chuckle, another levergun forum gone to the bolt heads. Well, here is a moments reprieve, returning briefly to the topic at hand-leverguns.
Ultimately, no 45-70 fanatic will ever admit that the 450 is an improvement over "their" cartridge. VG point about the rim difference, with the nod going to the 450 again.
Similar is the constant rehashing on many forums of the evils of porting. For the record, the ports on the guide gun do a great job keeping the gun pointed in the right direction for fast follow ups, something that will not be acknowledged, either.
The guide gun is really nothing more than a further evolution of the short rifle. In levergun terms, the short rifle is NOT a carbine, it is in fact a full size rifle with a short barrel.
Finally, the 450 gives great credit to the 45-70. It would not exist without its parent round, yet it most certainly is an improvement.
And now, back to bolts...


Yep...

But needed to play it again.


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.45-70 if one does not reload. If you do, whatever trips your trigger.


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Originally Posted by m3taco
Sorry in advance - this might be a little long.....

First, in the interest of full disclosure I own, shoot, hunt and reload for both. In 45-70 I have a #1, several Marlin 1895Gs and a GS - they are in various combinations of ported, non-ported, micro-grove and Ballard rifling. Three Siamese Mausers and one of the Remington double riffles. In 450M I have a ported and a non-ported 1895M, both ballard rifling. The ported one I converted to pistol grip, a Custom built pre-64 Win 70 and a Custom Ruger M77. I've hunted the US and African PG with nearly all of them.

Second, separate the cartridges from the rifle using it. While it is true both the 45-70 and 450M can be hand loaded to the same/similar pressures and velocities, how many guys if handed a 50K psi hand load for a bolt action would be willing to put it in a "Trapdoor" and pull the trigger? These and more are reasons reloading manuals as well as SAMMI have three different sets of standards/limits and loading data for the 45-70: Trapdoor - under 28K PSI, Modern Lever - under 36K PSI, Modern Rifle - under 50K PSI and 450 in a 1895 Marlin under 43.5K PSI and unlisted max in bolt actions or #1s. While some 45-70 brass manufactures might make the 45-70 cases a bit thicker, the standard for all 450M brass is thicker than the standard for the 45-70 brass.

Third, many people forget the strength of the ACTION is the limiting factor in the 45-70. From least to highest - Trapdoors/low-walls early levers, modern levers - Marlin, and modern rifles - #1's/high-walls, Browning levers and bolts. An awful lot of people think that all Marlin 1895 actions are the same - they are NOT. While many of the parts will interchange there is a difference in the metallurgy and receiver/barrel threads between the regular 1895 and the 1895M. The regular 1895's use a "U" shaped thread and the 1895M uses a "V" shaped thread. This allows the 1895M to have more threads and also leave the barrel and receiver a bit thicker.

The historical reason Hornady and Marlin teamed up to develop the 450 Marlin was to: a) take advantage of the capability of modern smokeless powders and push them to max safe levels b) make sure the "modern" high pressure cartridge couldn't be "accidentally" put in an old Trapdoor or low wall and hurt someone. Additionally, it was a way to allow those shooters who don't/didn't reload to get all the advantages of the "modern" loads. Remember, this was before anyone like Garrett, Corebon or Buffalo Bore was offering anything and all the normal manufactures were limiting factory loads to the lowest common denominator - Trapdoor - to limit liability.

Also historically, rimmed/flanged cartridges don't feed as well in bolt action as they do in levers, singles and break actions - that is why nearly all big bore double rifles use rimmed/flanged cases and all big bore bolt actions don't. Hornady may have also hoped that the "rimless" case would spur rifle manufactures to start cambering more bolt actions in 450M. A few did - Ruger in the M77, Styer in their Pro Hunter line and Browning in their box magazine fed BLR's.

All that said and back to the OP's original question...When it comes to lever action Marlins - I like the 450 over the 45-70 because the rimless 450M feeds through the loading gate better/easier and the actions feel like they cycle smoother. In fact, I am taking the 1895M with me in a few weeks to South Africa while I take a PH training/certification course. I am taking the lever 450 over my bolts or the double for a couple of reasons: a) Nothing except a full or semi auto cycles faster than a lever gun. There is a "timed" shooting practical you have to pass - three shots in 15 seconds, one each at 30, 20 and 10 meters at a 4 centimeter target - easy with the lever, pushing it with a bolt and damned hard with a double. b) I am comfortable with it as it has be used for PG on every trip to Namibia. I can load it SAFELY and within Marlin max pressure limits to just under 458 Win Mag levels with 350gr Hornady JFP and I have a combination that puts me into the legal muzzle energy for DG. c) Willing to bet nobody has done the PH cert course with a lever gun before.

For the "normal" guy who loves lever guns and doesn't reload, I would tip in favor of the 45-70 simply for the wide array and availability of commercial ammo. For those that love Marlin levers and reload I would tip back to the 450M simply because the higher pressure limits of the 1895M actions allow the reloader to really push bullets beyond the design limits of the standard 1895 action.

Ported vs Non Ported, I like the ported. Personally, I can't tell the difference in sound level when shooting them. Standing/sitting next to them HUGE difference. I think barrel length is a bigger factor. My longer barreled bolts don't make my ears ring nearly as bad without ear plugs. The Marlin ports do make a big difference in muzzle jump/rise. Off the bench with sandbags or off shooting sticks with heavy and full house loads the ported Marlins just about lay/stay on the bag/sticks and don't need to be held at the fore stock while the non-ported nearly jump off the bags/rest. Can't say I can feel much recoil reduction/difference and that is comparing identical rifles except porting with same loads same day/trip to the range one after the other.


For those that want to enter the 458 Win Mag territory in bolt actions, I would tip to the 450M. The reason being primarily the smoother feeding of the rimless case. It took a lot more "work" to get the Siamese Mausers to feed 100% reliably with Spitzers and wide nose flat points and they just don't cycle as smoothly. If it was just one I could limit it to just that one but it is the same with all three.

The above is not meant to take anything away from the 45-70 as I love them too. My wife shoots 45-70 in "her" Marlin and "her" Mauser - 300 gr Nosler Partitions (till I run out) at 2000fps and has taken several head of PG out to 130yds with one shot/one kill, and I have taken multiple head of PG with the 45-70 before I got my first 1895M. In the bolts, both calibers, I am running 350gr Horady JFP, 350 Barnes TSX and a 330gr banded solid at 2400 FPS (chrono'd) with zero over pressure signs. The 330 solid passed end to end through a medium bodied zebra last year and the TSX's will just about pass end to end through a gemsbok, and the 350gr JFPs will just about knock a gemsbok off their feet at impact inside 75yds. Also, use Cast Performance 405gr Wide Flat Points in the Marlins loaded to 1850 fps and they will pass through gemsbok on broad side shots and nearly end to end.

Just the opinions of one guy.


started reading this thread out of curiosity, and the fact that I know a little about both cartridges as well as the rifles discussed and cussed. (lever guns and the Rugers). Considering the fact that 80% of the folks buying a big bore don't bother to reload; the .450 moves away from the pack. But of course that means little to folks that reload all the time. I also shoot the 38-55's and someother oddballs. The choice of powder is important to me, and the idea of using 5744 in both rounds is a plus in their favor. But with the .450 I can zing some rounds with different powders that just don't work all that well in the 45-70 case. But it's really a moote point as both have their qualities. That muzzel brake is a plus, and if you don't need one that's OK. In my old age I don't heal up as quickly. The .450 is clearly more accurate than the 45-70 in my book. But so is the .444, and lets face it there's not a lot of anything in North America that a .444 with 330 grain bullets won't be real hard on. Precision Shooting did a long road test with the .450, and 45-70, and the results probably made a lot of folks mad as hell. So be it! Now I think a #1 chambered in .450 would also put a lot of to bed in very short order, but that's another story. Presently I getting ready to start working up loads for the Speer 400 grain bullet in the .450 at somewhere close to 1900fps (more or less). I have starting loads and what is considered to be a max load from Accurate ((1700fps to 1930fps). Then I'll do the samething in a Marlin chambered in 45-70 (after I finally heal up!). But looking at this quagmire I think I rather have a Hi-Wall or a #1 chambered in .458 American, and be done with it all. The .444 is a round that just simply begs for better bullets out to 350 grains (jacketed).
shoot those big bores, but be safe first!!
gary

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I'd do the .458 American (.458x2") before the .450 Marlin. It'll push a 400 grain bullet to 2000fps, and cases are easy to build of factory .458 brass. There's also a wildcat that uses .348 Win. brass necked up to .458. A very good dangerous game round as well.
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what you are saying is that with a WSM case you are pretty much looking at a rimless .450 Ackley! Never thought about that one, but alass I would not consider it in a lever gun.
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Nor would I, the present offerings do the job quite well, and I was speaking of mainly what would I use in a bolt gun. I have always wanted a .45-70 bolt rifle, but read of some of the difficulties you could encounter building one, so didn't entertain it too much. And of the other two you mention (.458X2 and the .450 Alaskan), I just feel a stronger pull to the Alaskan. Neat looking case in a beautiful rifle.

But, I have played with wildcats enough that I like easily obtained cases and straightforward loading, hence the thought of a .450 Marlin bolt gun.

But, I'll probably never do it. I have a Guide gun, and it has enough power for what I want to do. I would probably go straight to an African caliber if I needed more ooommphhh.

Lord knows I don't want to get kicked any harder, it just ain't the fun it used to be. I've used a .308 for years and lately have been thinking about a .243....

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Originally Posted by Vic_in_Va
Nor would I, the present offerings do the job quite well, and I was speaking of mainly what would I use in a bolt gun. I have always wanted a .45-70 bolt rifle, but read of some of the difficulties you could encounter building one, so didn't entertain it too much. And of the other two you mention (.458X2 and the .450 Alaskan), I just feel a stronger pull to the Alaskan. Neat looking case in a beautiful rifle.

But, I have played with wildcats enough that I like easily obtained cases and straightforward loading, hence the thought of a .450 Marlin bolt gun.

But, I'll probably never do it. I have a Guide gun, and it has enough power for what I want to do. I would probably go straight to an African caliber if I needed more ooommphhh.

Lord knows I don't want to get kicked any harder, it just ain't the fun it used to be. I've used a .308 for years and lately have been thinking about a .243....


two wildcats that have gained my attention lately are:
* a 30-40 Krag blown out to a tapered strait wall case for a .405 bullet. With a case length of 2.200", I think it would cycle thru a 336 action without much trouble. Be kinda like a "405 short", but doubt you'd ever know the difference with modern powders

* a .444 marlin case sized to use a .375 bullet (tapered and shortened to the 2.156" long case length)
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With the 30-40 based cartridge, the only time you would be giving something up would be with the heavier bullets at max pressure, but with the lighter bullets, it oughta do fine. And the .405 can handle some big critters.

Once you get to that size bullet at a good sectional density, moderate velocities will do quite well.

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