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loggah and calhoun, those look good very tasteful! What's something like the run $$ and who did it? You can pm if you'd rather...lol

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OK Rory and Don...now that's just about enough of that! Those are pissah! Where, how, who, how much???? I need this done! I looked into it, and I swore i was advised against doing it to the 99 because of the make up of the metal...could be wrong...little help here boys! PM me or blurt it out! Don't be skin flints and hold out on a guy!


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I bought mine that way!!!! grin and since it wasn't original i checkered the stock ,and engine turned the bolt !!which i did after these pictures were taken. Don

Last edited by Loggah; 09/08/11.
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Got mine from a campfire member, but case color was done before either of us got hold of it. Most folks won't even try to case color the receiver due to the chance of warping the metal.


The Savage 99 Pocket Reference”.
All models and variations of 1895’s, 1899’s and 99’s covered.
Also dates, checkering, engraving.. Find at www.savagelevers.com
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Turnbull may or may not do a 99, another outfit in Illinois named classic guns inc. I think...they definitely will do it.


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Originally Posted by gnoahhh
What's the alloy used for receivers, and are they heat treated to any extent? (I'm guessing not, as easy as they are to file, but with some spot hardening at the bolt lockup?) Case hardening an 1899/99 receiver may well do more harm than good, depending on the alloy, but it would look pretty. Short of knowing for a fact what it's made of, it would be wise to consult a metallurgist before having it color case hardened.


how would hardening the receiver be a bad thing? Make it too brittle? I always assumed that the receivers were likely hardened to some extent... now CCH might produce a different RC, I never thought it would be much of an issue.

Don, Don't you or your brother have a factory case colored 1895?

As for warpage... I HIGHLY doubt it. the 99 receiver is really quite thick and they regularly case things much smaller and thinner... such as savage 99 levers or side plates on side lock shotguns. Side plates are for all practicality a 2D object when compared to a Savage 99 receiver. Think of the difference is "warping" a piece of paper compared to a book.


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Drew, I have a factory case colored 1895, pretty sure Fug has one also. i think a few over 100 (115) is the number i remember that were case colored by Marlin. Don

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Originally Posted by lovemy99
Originally Posted by gnoahhh
What's the alloy used for receivers, and are they heat treated to any extent? (I'm guessing not, as easy as they are to file, but with some spot hardening at the bolt lockup?) Case hardening an 1899/99 receiver may well do more harm than good, depending on the alloy, but it would look pretty. Short of knowing for a fact what it's made of, it would be wise to consult a metallurgist before having it color case hardened.


how would hardening the receiver be a bad thing? Make it too brittle? I always assumed that the receivers were likely hardened to some extent... now CCH might produce a different RC, I never thought it would be much of an issue.

Don, Don't you or your brother have a factory case colored 1895?

As for warpage... I HIGHLY doubt it. the 99 receiver is really quite thick and they regularly case things much smaller and thinner... such as savage 99 levers or side plates on side lock shotguns. Side plates are for all practicality a 2D object when compared to a Savage 99 receiver. Think of the difference is "warping" a piece of paper compared to a book.



The problem with hardening a receiver if not done right,
Is the Belly! Were that Area will Crack. If the Person whom is hardening the receiver has not properly Made a Fixture to Pack out the inside=take all the un-used space, it will crack.
Marlin Knew what to do Back in the Day, and a Lot Of so called guys whom think they Know how to Case Harden a receiver, DO NOT TAKE THE PROPER TIME AND EFFORT to make sure the gut's of the receiver is packed out tight via fixture-mold or what ever.


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Yep, Steve nailed it. In addition, case hardening only works well on low carbon alloys. The addition of other elements (such as nickel, chrome, molybdenum, etc.) can effect the outcome. That's why I inquired as to whether anybody knows the makeup of 1899/99 receiver alloys.

Case hardening imparts a thin glass-hard skin to low carbon steel, leaving the inside dead soft. This is accomplished by transference of carbon into the surface of the steel through high heat (1450� I believe) in an oxygen-free environment of charcoal that's packed around the part, in a crucible inside an oven. The type of charcoal used will determine the colors one gets, which are merely a side benefit of the case hardening. Most industrial case hardening (also known as carburizing) isn't done that way anymore as the colors aren't necessary for functionality.

It's a means of utilizing cheap low carbon steel for purposes which it would otherwise be useless for. Old guns that have case hardened components (bolts, receivers, etc.) that take the stress of firing get away with it only when headspace is carefully maintained. Allowing a bolt (or breech block) to get a running start upon detonation before it hits it's recess can, in extreme circumstances, result in fracturing. If everything is snug, no worries. Case hardened surfaces make for slick operation (think .30/40 Krag and early 1903 Springfield actions), are tough (due to the soft inner core), and wear well. Once the thin case is worn through exposing the soft core, rapid wear will set in.

In addition to the risk of cracking from inept heat treating, there is a real risk of warpage if the part isn't firmly anchored in a fixture when going through the process. Guys who regularly CC levers (not just Savages) have those fixtures. Even then I'll bet a dollar to a donut hole that if you measured a lever before and after CC'ing you'll find slight discrepancies. I've known LC Smith collectors who've had receivers and lock plates warp slightly when done by big name heat treaters. It is always a crap shoot, but with admittedly low risk if done properly.

Sorry for the long diatribe. It's been a long time since I took any metallurgy classes, so if I got a fact wrong don't shoot me!

Last edited by gnoahhh; 09/09/11.

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Originally Posted by gnoahhh
Yep, Steve nailed it. In addition, case hardening only works well on low carbon alloys. The addition of other elements (such as nickel, chrome, molybdenum, etc.) can effect the outcome. That's why I inquired as to whether anybody knows the makeup of 1899/99 receiver alloys.

Case hardening imparts a thin glass-hard skin to low carbon steel, leaving the inside dead soft. This is accomplished by transference of carbon into the surface of the steel through high heat (1450� I believe) in an oxygen-free environment of charcoal that's packed around the part, in a crucible inside an oven. The type of charcoal used will determine the colors one gets, which are merely a side benefit of the case hardening. Most industrial case hardening (also known as carburizing) isn't done that way anymore as the colors aren't necessary for functionality.

It's a means of utilizing cheap low carbon steel for purposes which it would otherwise be useless for. Old guns that have case hardened components (bolts, receivers, etc.) that take the stress of firing get away with it only when headspace is carefully maintained. Allowing a bolt (or breech block) to get a running start upon detonation before it hits it's recess can, in extreme circumstances, result in fracturing. If everything is snug, no worries. Case hardened surfaces make for slick operation (think .30/40 Krag and early 1903 Springfield actions), are tough (due to the soft inner core), and wear well. Once the thin case is worn through exposing the soft core, rapid wear will set in.

In addition to the risk of cracking from inept heat treating, there is a real risk of warpage if the part isn't firmly anchored in a fixture when going through the process. Guys who regularly CC levers (not just Savages) have those fixtures. Even then I'll bet a dollar to a donut hole that if you measured a lever before and after CC'ing you'll find slight discrepancies. I've known LC Smith collectors who've had receivers and lock plates warp slightly when done by big name heat treaters. It is always a crap shoot, but with admittedly low risk if done properly.

Sorry for the long diatribe. It's been a long time since I took any metallurgy classes, so if I got a fact wrong don't shoot me!




BINGO!
Gary ya get a real big pat on the back! Are you sure you wasn't a MoldMaker or Die Maker???? grin
Explained extremly well. I'm sure old Linberg Heat treating Here in Chicago would have had you as a Apprentice trainer .
grin
Steve


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Nah, I took a bunch of metallurgy classes in school and ran a tool room right out of school, plus I hung out a lot in the heat treat department (of the chain factory I worked at up in Pennsylvania)- what seems like a lifetime ago. Some of those old heat treat guys had forgotten more than the professors ever knew. Our resident metallurgist used to come to them for advise. I still have a partial can of the old formula Kasenit one of those guys gave me when I was doing a gun related "government project". (That was the good stuff for case hardening small parts. The "old" formula had cyanide in it and did a wonderful job, better than the Kasenit being made now. Just don't breathe while using it!!)


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Originally Posted by fatjack34
Turnbull may or may not do a 99, another outfit in Illinois named classic guns inc. I think...they definitely will do it.



http://www.classicgunsinc.com/pricing.htm Classic Guns INC. cc's 99's here is the link.

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