Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunting Rifles Problem with talley light weight rings

I've found that to be very important.

Yep, had that issue with my M70. The most forward screw was bottoming out on the barrel thread, which caused it to strip. Cutting another screw down to size took care of that.
And as Waders said, farmer tight widda T-15 torx head screwdriver.

kinda tough to blame talley if you did not get the screws tight. I see it as installer error. I am not trying to be a dick, but for some guy skimming the net, he is going to see this and think they are no good. I actually think they one of the few great things to happen to gun that benefit light weight rifles.

my two percent of one dollar.

High country I don't disagree with your installer error assessment and didn't mean to rip on On Talley per se other than to point out a problem I was having. I think other scope mount designs would have shown the problem sooner because they aren't one piece. I realize now that I didn't degrease the holes and didn't use locktite. I have run 3 sets of talleys now and this is the first problem. I also have never gotten the talley bite on my conquest scopes as some have mentioned.

BigBuck,

If you over tightening the bases, it's seems possible to me that you may be actually stretching the screws and not really getting them as tight as you'd think. In a conversation with Leupold custom service, a few years ago, I asked what is the torque spec. They told me "15-20 in. lbs... No more than 20!" Since then I have adhered to that. I do, however; use PURPLE Loc-tite. Purple is for small screws. I've never had one come loose... I figure there is a torque spec for a reason.
GH

Careful, I once partially stripped threads in a soft bridge doing that. Locktite (blue), remaining threads, and a "Doh!" forehead slap have held the base in place for years now. In my (really, really weak) defense the screw was too short.

Blue works if you're lazy and don't degrease the threads and screw thoroughly. Never had to use heat to back one out, just a GOOD screwdriver carefully.

Also anything on the threads, grease, oil, thread locker, decreases friction so less torque is needed for the same "set." Another reason to go easy.

Thank you Mr. Grasshopper, wish you posted more Kimber info here but understand your reluctance.
Anyway, if you are getting the Talley "bite", you are cranking the cap screws too tight. Plus, there is supposed to be a gap between the upper and lower ring. If you have NO gap, you are crushing the scope tube.
Gary and Chris from Talley recommend 17 inch/lbs.. They also say you CAN lap but very lightly. These aren't Ruger rings (my comment)!!!
Save yourself some error and grief, people. Buy an inch/pound torque wrench from your favorite supply house. Use it for the action screws, base screws and cap screws. "Farmer tight" depends on who the farmer is!

Personally I have not had an issue and I do not use any color Loctite. That was with 338's and wizzums. Not saying it won't happen. Don't forget a drop of fingernail polish used to be the norm also.

I use red. If you want to remove the screws, hold a soldering iron on the screw heads for about a minute and the screws come right out.

I tension all my base screws to about 30-35"-lbs, with some nail polish hardener(steal ya wifes. I did . Diamond dust gear is the best, grin ) on the threads before hand.
An old gunsmith taught me this some time back. Better than LT IMO too. Used both!
The polish when set dries hard, & when one wants to remove it, you will hear the snap crack that tight seal makes. Great technique.

Degreasing is not part of the problem. Where torque really matters you want a lubricant so you are getting a true torque reading. Dry threads can "dry seize" and give a full torque reading prematurely. Not that this likely matters for scope bases but if you think greased threads are more likely to come loose that is wrong.