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Ok, tons of reading and searching the web and I still can't wrap my head around this. I have a SAAMI chambered 280 Ackley due in soon and I am trying to get set up with dies for it. I understand that the SAAMI chamber has a bit shorter headspace than the original PO Ackley design. It seems that some of the die sets for the original design will not bump the shoulder back on the SAAMI spec brass. I have seen several notes regarding people using a lathe to shorten the die .020" to compensate. ![[Linked Image]](http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v663/bwestfall/RELOADING/280-ai-vs-280-ai-saami.jpg) Frankly, I don't want to deal with machining a die! I just want to know what die set will just work with my rifle chamber. I have looked at dozens of reloading equipment sites and have yet to find a die labeled or described as SAAMI spec for the 280 AI.
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Just grind down the top of a shell holder if your die doesn't bump enough, or the die company can make you a custom die, die companies don't sell SAAMI and min SAAMI die sets.... your worrying to much just enjoy your new rifle!
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Defend the Constitution
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It's cheaper to use a feeler guage between the case head and shell holder!
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Just grind down the top of a shell holder if your die doesn't bump enough, or the die company can make you a custom die, die companies don't sell SAAMI and min SAAMI die sets.... your worrying to much just enjoy your new rifle! Great advise there! You can't adjust your die until you get the rifle...life's a bitch, ain't it!
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Thanks, I guess I'll just bite the bullet. They sure are proud of the 280 AI dies!
I don't think the Redding shellholders will do it since the problem is that some of the dies are designed for the original specs and will bottom on the shell holder before they hit the SAAMI spec brass's shoulder. If I am not mistaken the competition shell holder set is designed to limit the die from coming down and pushing the shoulder back to far.
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Lujon, the feeler guage method will get your shoulders bumped back and it's easy to do and very accurate, and the other methods will keep you shooting, just choose one method that will work for you ...good luck!
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call and talk to redding they are aware of the problem and will lead you in the right direction.
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A feeler gauge will be adding distance between the case shoulder and the shoulder in the die which is going the wrong way. Same way with the Redding Competition Shellholders. Grinding down the shellholder is not easy since they are hardened steel, a file won't do it (don't ask me how I know  ). Also if you do the shellholder you need to make sure that it is done perfectly flat or it will put stress on your die sideways, not much but may create runout. I have had a Redding Body Die in 22-250 reduced on the bottom of the die by 1/4" and it worked out well. You can adjust the die up so that it only pushs the shoulder back as much as you want. The only thing is that it won't size the case body down as far as an unground one does but .025" will be undetectable and will not make any difference. Pushing the shoulder back as much as you need to will. I would take a shellholder and a body die to a machinist and ask his opinion.
"The beauty of the 2nd amendment is that it will not be needed until they try to take it" - Thomas Jefferson
Criminals prefer unarmed victims and dictators prefer unarmed citizens
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I have a set that have been hardly used. They are Redding FL die set. I picked these up used with the intent of building a 280AI. Those plans have changed and I'm going to stay with the 280 Rem. They were shortened approximately 0.020" from Mike Bellm for use with a contender. Here is his website: http://www.bellmtcs.com/store/Let me know if you are interested.
It's not that Liberals are unwilling to listen to another point of view, they are just simply amazed that another one exists.
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A feeler gauge will be adding distance between the case shoulder and the shoulder in the die which is going the wrong way. Same way with the Redding Competition Shellholders. Grinding down the shellholder is not easy since they are hardened steel, a file won't do it (don't ask me how I know ). Also if you do the shellholder you need to make sure that it is done perfectly flat or it will put stress on your die sideways, not much but may create runout. I have had a Redding Body Die in 22-250 reduced on the bottom of the die by 1/4" and it worked out well. You can adjust the die up so that it only pushs the shoulder back as much as you want. The only thing is that it won't size the case body down as far as an unground one does but .025" will be undetectable and will not make any difference. Pushing the shoulder back as much as you need to will. I would take a shellholder and a body die to a machinist and ask his opinion. You need to picture a feeler guage of the correct thickness under the case head while the case is in the shell holder, it works trust me!
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You need to picture a feeler guage of the correct thickness under the case head while the case is in the shell holder, it works trust me!
He needs to push the shoulder further back than the die will allow him to do now. The problem is ocurring because the die will bottom out before it goes down far enough so the inside of the die will hit the shoulder and push it back. If you put a feeler gauge on top of the shell holder it will only increase the distance between the case shoulder and the die shoulder when the press cams over at the end of the stroke.
"The beauty of the 2nd amendment is that it will not be needed until they try to take it" - Thomas Jefferson
Criminals prefer unarmed victims and dictators prefer unarmed citizens
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You need to reread my post, I know exactly what is needed to bump a shoulder back, if you slide a case in a shell holder and pull up on the case you will find there is some play or a gap between the case head and bottom of the shell holder, and by sliding a feeler guage underneath the case head you can push the case further into the die creating more shoulder bump!
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You're right. I was envisioning putting the feeler gauge between the shell holder and the die.  Kind of a PITA to stick a feeler gauge in there every sizing, but if you can get a thick enough one in, should work.
"The beauty of the 2nd amendment is that it will not be needed until they try to take it" - Thomas Jefferson
Criminals prefer unarmed victims and dictators prefer unarmed citizens
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I have a set that have been hardly used. They are Redding FL die set. I picked these up used with the intent of building a 280AI. Those plans have changed and I'm going to stay with the 280 Rem. They were shortened approximately 0.020" from Mike Bellm for use with a contender. Here is his website: http://www.bellmtcs.com/store/Let me know if you are interested. Interesting info...thanks for the link. Also just picked up an AI and I'm learning as I go here....
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