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Originally Posted by ironbender
I have never greased the sprocket on my 20" Stihl and it's old. What am I missing here?


Nothing!

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You cannot grease a Stihl sprocket.

Some sprocket nose bars have a small hole in the bar toward the rear of the sprocket on each side of the bar. It is for those of us who tend to be anal to grease the sprocket. If you go to a saw shop you will see the Stihl makes little grease guns for greasing the sprocket but the Sthil bars I have seen lack the hole to use them.


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Well it must be getting enough bar oil then.

And my Johnsered probably does too but it has grease holes on the sprocket tip so I give it a shot now and then, maybe about as often as I grease the needle bearings for the drive sprocket hub.



Something clever here.

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I think most bar companies who have holes for grease recommend once a day. I tend to grease with every fill. But I think it's fun to use my fancy grease gun.


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Checked the bar that has the worst stretching and the sprocket runs fine. But it is the older bar and it is getting a bit worn, though I keep it trued and straight. hmm. maybe it needs to be replaced and just buy a new one. The second bar, which is on the saw right now, produces much less stretch, though I still have to adjust it every time I use it.


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The way it pours oil through the bar, I figured I was fine.


If you take the time it takes, it takes less time.
--Pat Parelli

American by birth; Alaskan by choice.
--ironbender
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If it works don't mess with it.


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Originally Posted by BrentD
Checked the bar that has the worst stretching and the sprocket runs fine. But it is the older bar and it is getting a bit worn, though I keep it trued and straight. hmm. maybe it needs to be replaced and just buy a new one. The second bar, which is on the saw right now, produces much less stretch, though I still have to adjust it every time I use it.


I still say half a tank of oil every tank of gas is about half enough.


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BrentD Offline OP
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Scott, I think you are right. So, I'll crank it open a lot further this weekend and see what happens. More hickories have to die...


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As long as your saw runs out of fuel or runs even with the fuel when wide open leave it there!

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Brent check your raker clearance. Does the saw cut fast and self feed in the cut?

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BrentD Offline OP
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Yes and sorta yes. Sometimes it feeds faster than others. Haven't noticed why other than dull blades don't.


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IMHO if you don't know chains, rakers without the right clearance can drive a person nuts...


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BrentD Offline OP
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Okay, educate me on raker height? I've been depending on a Stihl shop to get it right.



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Chain data should tell you.

Mine is .025" Cutter height above "raker" to control depth of cut.

[Linked Image]


Something clever here.

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The more you sharpen, the shorter the cutter height above the raker becomes, you lose cutter height. So you have to lower the raker respectively.

you can find an inexpensive gauge/file kit for your chain at most saw shops or hardware stores.

the gauge and file I use right now looks like this.

[Linked Image]


Something clever here.

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Oilers are notorious for getting plugged as well as other saw parts, do to saw dust and chips.Take your saw apart and clean the oiler well,then check it's output with the saw running.

I'm not good getting whats on my mind to the keyboard so here is a link on how too even though I have done it a thousand times.

http://www.ehow.com/how_12038613_fix-chain-oil-problems-stihl-chainsaw-ms290.html

Jayco

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Sounds like you might have lost a bearing in the sprocket tip.Pull the chain and check for slop in tip.Clean groove in bar often ,some stihl chains come pre strecthed so if left tight they can shrink and bend the crank shaft a little.Pferd makes a filing guide that takes down the rakers every time you file,goggle it looks like it might just work.Make sure your tension screw is in the hole in bar.Most saw shops just sharpen cutters and not rakers.I have ben logging and building log structures since I was 12 am now 62.Hope this helps.

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[bleep] SAKES,....this "Danielson" idiot,....1 ea., AKA, "Brent" calls folks out as "Wanabees" and failed attempts at "western Skills",....RAGS on em' about where they were BORN.

Stupid Corsucker hasn't figured out how to run a goddam chainsaw yet.

Nice,....albeit STUPID thread.

and Brent,....go [bleep] yerself' with yer "saw"

Goddam IDIOT

GTC


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-- “Sometimes I wonder whether the world is being run by smart people who are putting us on or by imbeciles who really mean it.”- Mark Twain





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1 tank oil to 1 tank gas, grease the bar tip too. Like others have said that is the trick. I have all Husqvarna stuff. My biggest saw is a 395 XP and I don't stretch chains like that even with the 36" on it. Once a fresh brand new chain has been stretched in and adjusted there is only minimal adjustment needed. I have 5 Husqvarna's all run 1 tank oil to 1 tank gas. I use bar oil and nothing else. I also don't run a chain until I am trying to burn the tree in half.

Disclaimer: I am not a lumber jack or arborist nor do I work for a tree service in any capacity, but I cut a hell of a lot of wood. This is what I do and it works for me.

Wish ya luck with getting your saw right.


�When governments fear the people, there is liberty. When the people fear the government, there is tyranny.�

Thomas Jefferson

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