Home Forums Hunting & Shooting General Big Game Worthless Baked-on Teflon finishes...

E4E... Where are you? I need some help.
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<br>I had my 375 WhnAI done in a baked-on Teflon black finish, and the dang stuff is not sticking!
<br>As per Acra-Glass instructions, I placed tape (duct, if you wondering) on the barrel and stock, to help with sqeezed out excess bedding material. Well, this morning i removed the tape, and the dang Teflon came off in ugly spots, some as long as a few inches. I now have an ugly monster for a Safari Rifle.
<br>BTW only the stainless barrel lost the Teflon, the Cro-Mo Parkerized action didn't. I must assume this stuff ither sticks better to Parkerizing, or Cro-Mo steel.
<br>I was led to believe this stuff was a good finish to use. It ain't/
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<br>Now, here is my question... Anyone use Robar?
<br>How does it work?
<br>Cost of doing a rifle?
<br>Any other finishes that may work better?
<br>E4E... how does that Kal-Gard stuff compare to baked-on Teflon?
<br>Thanks. ~~~Suluuq

RR,
<br>Ive had several guns built now with that black baked on teflon and every one ends up peeling off up on the end of the barrel right around the muzzle.On my last gun my 25 Booboo I checked into Robar and found that he wants like 350 bucks to put his "rob guard" on your gun.I could not see it and put more baked on teflon again.The best finish that Ive seen is my 17 year old 280 Ackley inproved built by Nelson
<br>Berger.Its electroless nickle.Alot of people dont like the light color of nickle but there is absolutly no shine to it at all and in 17 years its never peeled off on me anyway.If you hunt in alot of wet conditions it will start to look crappy after awhile and the best way I found to clean it up is with scotch bright.Makes it look new again.Try taking a scotch bright pad to your black teflon finish, ha.;-)
<br> Probley the best guy to talk to about getting a gun plated like this would be Tom Meredith of TM Stockworks (219 485 5389)
<br>dave

Anyone ever tried moly-resin? Sure sounds good. Here's a link
<br>http://www.fireflysoft.com/FSoft/molyresin.asp

RG, there is a Browning Mdl 71 .348 in todays paper. Send me an E and I'll send the # if you are interested.pak

Suluuq ... For purposes of hiding the flash from stainless, try flat black and/or brown spray paint ($1.99 can) on the barrel-only. It can easily be touched up if necessary and painlessly removed after the hunt.
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<br>Silver Bullet

Rusty. I had Pac-Nor do their baked on paint for both my PN barreled rifles. In spite of using duct tape on the muzzles, it still looks fine. Only the inside of the recessed crowns lost their paint. They painted the bolt of my .25-284 with bake on Moly Sulfide paint. It has held up well too.
<br> I have others that I have used ordinary spray on paint, rust proofing paint, and Cabela's Bow Paint. All of them loose paint in spots, but it's dead simple to touch up. None of my painted CM parts have rusted. Even my duck gun. E

This rifle is giving me the most greif I've ever had in any rifle I've ever owned.
<br>First, it don't feed right, still giving me some trouble, and it don't chamber smoothly.
<br>Second, the Teflon finish is coming off like it had cancer.
<br>Third, it's going to cost me more money to fix, and the 120 dollars I spent on the Teflon finish will be lost money.
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<br>The best thing I could think of is to dump the action, saving it for some magnum rifle someday, and install a stainless Mauser action when they become available (the barrel is stainless). Re-chamber to 376 Steyr, using the slightly longer leade/magazine of the 375 WhnAI as a means to set the bullets out further on the 376.
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<br>I should have gone all blued on this one, and no teflon. What an expensive lesson. Damn, I'll never repeat this one again.
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<br>PAK... money is tied up, as you can see in my above comments. Thanks, it sure would be nice to own one of those 348's, though. ~~~Suluuq
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RG
<br>There may be several reasons why the teflon is not sticking. First the surface must be beadblasted properly with a media that will actually cut the surface, not just put dents in in. Next the surface must be chemically clean. I soak my parts in methol-ethyl-ketone to remove any oil. Sometimes when a part is heated, oil will come out of the steel and then you have to clean everything and start over. The reason nothing will stay forever on the muzzle is because the gas coming out of the barrel is hot enough to actually consume (where is that spell checker) anything on the outside. I teflon nearly every rifle I build and there was a big learning curve for me before I got it right. The most important thing is to clean the metal and bake at the correct temperature. Do not bake in a gas fired oven as they all give of some water vapor. Good luck.
<br>Charlie Sisk

I beleive the art is in the prep...
<br>
<br>I have had very good success with:
<br>W.E. Birdsong & Associates, Inc.
<br>1435 Monterey Road
<br>Florence, MS 39073-9748
<br>(601) 939-7448
<br>
<br>he does LOTS of HK's and other SPECOPS, Police guns..
<br>FBI etch...

With all the trouble with Teflon comeing off
<br>has any one tried powder coating.It is tough !
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<br>All kinds of colors.Big Auto paint shops do it.Seen it on Bikes,and hot rods.looks really good.They do show bike frames.
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<br>Rick or someone down south may be able to check it out .
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<br>mdiver

The finishes offered by Lauer are the only ones I know that work.
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<br>http://www.lauerweaponry.com/

My 35 Whelen has a teflon finish. Rocky Mountain Arms of Longmont, Colorado did the work. They call it "BearCoat" and it was offered as a service through Cabela's a few years ago. Since I live 5 mins from Longmont, I just went directly to them. The work was done in July of 1998.
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<br>I must say that it is holding up well, except when I hit the barrel on something....And I am fairly hard on my hunting guns. They ride around in trucks, get wet, muddy, rocky, ect. But the teflon is doing pretty good.
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Mr Sisk... Do you teflon other people's rifles? If so, cost of tefloning my rifle? I imagine I would want it all done over again, since small portions of the bolt are thinning out.
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<br>~~~Suluuq

Suluug, You guys are scaring the crap out of me. My new custom 260 is off right now being tefloned. Teflonned? Ah heck, coated with the stuff. Being done by a smith that has done me well before so I will keep my fingers crossed. Hope to get it back in time for my wifes bear hunt in May and will let you know how it turns out. TM

RG
<br>I do teflon rifles other than the ones I build. The cost is $200 plus shipping. Teflon is very durable but it will wear off in places that you have metal to metal contact. The only way to stop this is have a finish that is harder than the metal.
<br>Charlie Sisk
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<br>Please call me Charlie.......That Mr. Sisk thing makes me feel old and important.....

Rusty-Gunn: You may have the same teflon finish that I got "screwed" with on my rifle that I had built in 1989. The d#@& stuff is still coming off! For about the first 2-3 years the action would get very stiff from the gummy stuff building up in the receiver after only about 30 or 40 strokes of the bolt. 13 years later, the bolt will still get gummy after extended use.
<br>I had a stainless barrel and had the teflon removed but left the teflon on the action as weatherproofing. I still regret getting talked into that by my gunsmith "buddy"!
<br>Good luck on yours.....- memtb

Haven't tried Robar, but....at my gunsmith's recommendation, I had a 1911 frame done in Metalloy, which is a dull silver color-probably electroless nickel. Whatever it is, it's very tough, and not the least bit shiny.
<br> If I were to get a rifle done in a non blued finish, I would consider Metalloy very strongly. Can't tell you the cost, as I had a bunch of stuff done at the same time.

I had a rifle Tefloned. I have no complaints so far. The gunsmith gave me realistic expectations up front. It is as scratch resistant as bluing, it will wear as well as bluing, it will resist moisture better than bluing, and has some self lubrication properties. As with any finish, the metal has to be properly "prepared" to accept the finish. The cost for rebluing an action is around $70. The cost for Tefloning an action is around $100. I would spend another $30 for the Teflon. GB

Rusty,
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<br>I have 3 rifles that are Teflon coated. Other then where the outside diameter meets the face (on the business end) non of the teflon has wore off. I simply took a "magic marker" and covered the are where it wore off. Seemed to do the job just fine.
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<br>When you say you should of "blued" the barrel were you reffering to "black oxide"? If you were black oxide will not stick to a 400 series S/S barrel. Then again it won't stick to 300 series S/S either but I have never heard of a 300 series S/S barrel.
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<br>Don

Thanks for the info.
<br>Don (Thats my english name btw), I meant that I should have had the rifle made in cro-mo steel and blued, to begin with, rather than going with the teflon finish. Magic marker, I'll try that, my 'old lady' told me that too, but it fell on deaf ears. (grins).
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<br>~~~Suluuq