Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Custom Rifles & Wildcats 7mm-08 Twist Rate and Stock

Thanks for all the input. The rifle specs. will mostly be as followed. Remington 700 SA all trued up and worked over, McMillan Mountain Hunter ADL (standard fill), Hart 1-9 twist / 23" barrel / Remington Sporter contour, and the factory trigger tuned.

Thanks Jonathan!!!!

Sounds like you've got it down. I'm by no means an expert in the custom rifle area but I love the way my Beanland built 7-08 turned out. I went 1:9 and have only shot 120's and 140's through it. It eats 120 TTSX's like no other...impressive accuracy.

See my post in the Blue Prints thread here: My 7mm-08

I pondered the same question when spec'ing out a new Bartlein for my 284 win. Bartlein can provide any twist you want - I went with a 1:9.125". Wife shoots a Rem-700 7-08ai with a factory Alaskan Ti barrel and a 1:9.25" twist. It likes 120 gr TTSX better than any other bullet, but it also shoots 120 gr Speers very well. So that 1:9" ought to be great.

#2 contour, 1" barrel shank 22-24" in length 9 twist. I don't think Hart will build a barrel under a #3 contour, so you may have to go with a different brand, which isn't a bad thing either. Lots of great barrel builders out there.

I built one on a #1 contour and although it packed well, it was only good for a couple of rounds, then started spraying bullets. I went with a #3 and it was just a bit too heavy. I find a #2 to be about perfect.

Doing a 1:10 twist gains you nothing at all. A 1:9 twist is the way to go. I shoot mostly 120's in my 7mm-08's, which are all 9 twists. I have also shot 162's with no issues at all. I have killed everything from mice to elk with 120 grain bullets. Great round and you will love it. Keep it light and simple. Don't over think it. Flinch

1:9, Classic.

9 twist...but I don't see any reason for a 23" barrel. Nothing to gain past 22" in a 708.

A Hart Barreled/Edge Stocked 7-08 would be a rifle you'd be happy with for a really long time. If you are going to go Hart, dig deep and get an Edge.

Question regarding barrel shank. I understand the barrel shank length will have a big impact on the rifle's balance. But will barrel shank length effect the rifle's accuracy / consistence at all? More specifically, will it have much bearing on a 7mm-08 Rem. with a #2 barrel contour.

Barrel shank length has little to do with a rifles accuracy, if any. Look at Remington barrel shanks, or lack of. They are tapered right from the front of the action, yet shoot extremely accurate. Even the mountain rifle contours (1 to 1 1/2 contour) shoot well under MOA. A properly chambered barrel and bedded action is the key. A #2 contour would be the meow. Flinch

No. You won't need any more than a 3/4"-1" shank to your 'smith when he cuts the barrel.

tikka T3 is 9.5

my 7mm-08 uses a hart #2 with a 1 inch shank at 23 inches and i find it to be perfect shoots 1/2 moa all day long and cleans up with two patches one of the best barrels I have


gene

My Savage 7mm-08 is the 9.5" twist, 22" sporter bbl. Shoots my handloads of 120g noslers & 140g sierra gkjsp under an inch at 100yds. I would not do the slower twist as all stated above.

So you guys are saying my weatherby vanguard s2 sporter with a 1 in 9.5 twist shoots crappy with 139 grain bullets because it's a weatherby and not because of the twist rate bullet weight combination? I'm about ready to take in to the junk man for scrap metal.

Lots of Vanguards shoot great, so it isn't because it's a Weatherby. It's not the twist rate either.

So odd to see "shoot great" and "Weatherby" used in the same sentence.

Kudos for the word smithing!

Five year old threads do contain some good stuff sometimes....

If you are a handloader, try seating some bullets to barely engage the lands before concluding the barrel to be total junk. I have a 7mm-08 that is rather finicky, and did not like any of my initial loads I was trying. So I grabbed some 145gr Speer BTSP that were on the shelf and found they would make the lands while still being short enough for loaded rounds to fit in the mag box. Groups shrank to 3/4MOA. I'm thinking the 20" floated barrel on that rifle might actually need a little forend pressure to work with the other loads, so I'm going to try that as well.

Buy a Barrett Fieldcraft in 7-08 and connect all dots and cut to the fhuqking chase. You reap a 8" twist spout that will do it all and throat geometry that jives with it's 3" COAL magbox. Bullets matter wayyyyyyyyyy more than headstamps and were it me,I'd be in 162 ELD Mode expressly.

I've got 7-08's in 9",9.25",9.5" and 10". My 22" Lilja 10" will stabilize same(162 'Max and ELD M's) at low tide in any/all weathers/seasons here in Kansas,but reserve RPM is your friend,if only because the ONLY way boolits get better,is to get longer. Hint.

Lilja 1-10" 22" 7-08 SALAMI and the only thing it launches is 162's. Re-hint.



The Fieldcraft wearing a 6X MQ Fixed Fhuqker,will simply do it all and then some. 2700fps is a breeze with the 162 ELD and with a modest 200yd zero,the windshield gets it to the 1100yd line. Factor a 20MOA rail,40 MOA 'Horn's and you are boolitproof and will bring 35 MILS of erector to the table,which is the 2000yd line.

It will cost less and be more mechanically sound(COAL/throat/twist).

I hold Hart in the highest esteem and have a good herd of them...but the Fieldcraft is simply a VASTLY superior Mouse Trap. Hint.

Never been tough to cypher who shoots and who don't,though the 168 SMK muse was fhuqking hilarious!

You've been led to water.

Thank me later........................


Now them late to the part can say they "know" too.

Laughing!

"The only way Bullets get better is get longer" holyshit you are a [bleep] moron. Sugar tits Please explain the 180 ELD m having a higher BC than the 175 eldx. What is never a miss is your inability to believe your own lies.

You poor retarded cull more about tail angle in alignment with ogive and so on but you are the best.
Laughing because you try so hard spend so much and still ain't got a clue.