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I ordered a Stag complete lower half with a A2 buttstock. I'm not sure if I want to buy the Stag upper that they use on their model 1, buy a different brand or build my own. How hard is it to build a complete upper half? I like to have a mid length hand guard/gas system setup. I like the way they look and feel. My last AR was a middy (RRA Tasc Rifle 16"). I'm in New Yorkistan so it has to be AWB compliant. Which is no big deal. I don't like the collapsible buttstocks, don't need a bayonet or flash hider and can still use pre ban high capacity magazines.

I definitely want a 16" barrel with a permanently affixed A2 front sight and a flat top A3/A4 receiver, this is set in stone. As mentioned, I'd like a middy, but it's not a deal breaker. However, if I build one, I'd go with the middy. . . . .if I build one, I might as well go with the one I like. The Stag model 1 upper comes with a removable carry handle with A2 sights, which is nice. I could shoot it until I can get whatever optic I decide on using. Maybe a RRA Dominator mount and EOTech. That won't be anytime soon.

If I need special tools, that'll add to the price. If it cost the same or more to buy tools and build one, maybe I'd be better off just buying a complete upper. So what do I need to properly build a AR upper? By that I mean what AR parts and tools do I need? I'm definitely on a tight budget. I have a lot of irons in the fire right now. However, putting this AR together is a priority. I'll take all the info I can get!

Thanks, NYH1. wink


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Last time I checked the savings totaled to quite a bit less than the cost of the vise blocks, wrench, and roll pin punches you'll need to do this. Yeah, you'll need a tourqe wrench also if you don't have one.


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It is so easy even a Cave Man could it. The tools to do this will cost you a few bucks, but you will have them if you decide to do another, plus the satisfaction of using a upper you did yourself. Also it will give you a better understanding of how your rifle function and to fix a problem yourself without seeking outside help. Go to Brownell Web Site and check out their AR BUILDING VIDEOS and you will see just how easy it is to build your own.

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Yep, I did a barrel change on a not-so accurate 16" carbine, and it is now a 20" wickedly accurate rifle.


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Originally Posted by bea175


[Linked Image]


2 lefty ARs?

I could learn to hate you, but I won't. grin

Seriously, I assume those are STAG uppers? How do you like them? I've been thinking the same thing as the OP.


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SOIK, means "simple only if known"

For those that are experienced with the parts and procedure, it is a snap.
For others, it is a daunting, scary job.


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My friend built his own upper this past summer. He has the wrench and a few other tools. I have a torque wrench. I'm seriously considering building my own upper.

NYH1.


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With a few tools and a very good understanding of how it all goes together its pretty easy. I put one together yesterday in about 15 minutes. Will build the lower this weekend hopefully.


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Originally Posted by bbassi
Originally Posted by bea175


[Linked Image]


2 lefty ARs?

I could learn to hate you, but I won't. grin

Seriously, I assume those are STAG uppers? How do you like them? I've been thinking the same thing as the OP.


I love them , i have four Left Hands AR'S i built , Plus one Right Hand


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Originally Posted by Mannlicher
SOIK, means "simple only if known"

For those that are experienced with the parts and procedure, it is a snap.
For others, it is a daunting, scary job.


I never knew how when I started. Took a manual.. go figure that, not a u tube or dvd or vhs but a manual, read it a few times and then it all went together without a hitch at all.

Granted its easier the next and the next and the next, but I felt that the first lower and first upper were way easier than anything I'd call daunting/scary job.


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Other than picking out a quality barrel - are there any steps that require special care in order to end up with a super accurate AR?


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Quality barrel, free floating handguard and good trigger are very important for AR accuracy.


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Originally Posted by rost495
Originally Posted by Mannlicher
SOIK, means "simple only if known"

For those that are experienced with the parts and procedure, it is a snap.
For others, it is a daunting, scary job.


I never knew how when I started. Took a manual.. go figure that, not a u tube or dvd or vhs but a manual, read it a few times and then it all went together without a hitch at all.

Granted its easier the next and the next and the next, but I felt that the first lower and first upper were way easier than anything I'd call daunting/scary job.


not everyone is special, Jeff. laugh


Sam......

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everyone is different, but I was trying to point out that its nothing but nuts and bolts basically.

You are either inclined or not, but its definitely not close to rocket science at all.

My dad would have been one of those no inclined, he had a hard time changing spark plugs in the lawnmower.

Should have put YMMV maybe in my post.


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Where does headspace come into play on a DIY upper?

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Originally Posted by Kgw911
Where does headspace come into play on a DIY upper?


It doesn't. An AR barrel has a barrel extension that contains the locking lugs. The only way the headspace can change is if the locking lugs on the bolt are out of spec. You still should check it with a set of chamber/headspace guages after assembly though.

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GENERALLY speaking each tolerance would have to be out of spec the opposite way. Or a totally flawed extension or lugs but it is possible and thats why it pays to check.

The worst I"ve ever come up with was a +.005 IIRC maybe 006


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Nice. Thanks for the info..

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Originally Posted by Take_a_knee
Originally Posted by Kgw911
Where does headspace come into play on a DIY upper?


It doesn't. An AR barrel has a barrel extension that contains the locking lugs. The only way the headspace can change is if the locking lugs on the bolt are out of spec. You still should check it with a set of chamber/headspace guages after assembly though.


Check it with a FIELD GAUGE and if the bolt doesn't close on it you are good to go. The gauge works the best if you remove the extractor from the bolt.


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I would never check without the ejector and spring removed. Good advice there!


We can keep Larry Root and all his idiotic blabber and user names on here, but we can't get Ralph back..... Whiskey Tango Foxtrot, over....
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