Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Gunsmithing Tru Oil, how much?

Yea well,live and learn. Stripped it down and doing it T11's way. Didn't realize how thick I was putting it on when using my digit. Stole the wife's micro fiber cloths(only $1 @ the Dollar General Store)and using my silk thermals(talk about something that didn't work out)to wipe with. So far REAL good.

DEAR ALL KNOWING SITKA !! All I need to know is I have NEVER had a stock come back.... ever !! All I need are happy people. IF the people is happy... guess what ?? I IS HAPPY !! I KNOW ... ALL MY PEOPLE ARE RETARDS... BUT THEY ARE HAPPY RETARDS
ooorrr maybe you don't know EVERY F####KIN THING ABOUT THE PROPER APLICATION OF TRU OIL ?? Having had that fun..., you have some good info but your Ahole attitude sucks...... just saying

Calm down! No one is saying Tru Oil is bad stuff per se, just that there are many (often better) alternatives- especially if said stock will see harsh conditions. I like to finish my stocks with harsh conditions in mind even if I know in my heart that they won't experience anything worse than a 40� day at the range.

Ah, well, as you are unable to debate direct facts I guess attacking me is all you had left... But calling your own customers retards is a little strong, don't you think?

But you are right I probably do come across as an azzhole to many. The problem is I continue to suggest people take a tiny bit of work and actually compare finishes one time. And it is not even my idea, it has been around forever. Over the internet I cannot show you the difference. In hand, you would be embarassed by your dumbass application compared to dozens of other far-easier application routes. I absolutely know that because I have done it repeatedly to show folks.

By the way, Herter's red wood stain is not made with walnuts...

As someone once said, you can bullshit the fans but you can't bullshit the players.

I have never said I dislike Tru-Oil... it remains a favorite of mine for a lot of reasons, especially over epoxy. I recognize its weaknesses, but also its strengths...

Why do you like it over epoxy? Does it make for an easier to repair surface finish while expoxy does the heavy lifting against water intrusion?

EXACTLY!

I also really like the look of Tru-Oil over myrtle. I really dislike the look of it over maple though. But those are taste issues unrelated to how it performs in any particular situation.

All three of these myrtle stocks are finished with epoxy and Tru-Oil. The pump gun is Accraglass sealed and ancient, the mauser is West System Cold Cure sealed and has been huted hard around saltwater and in the rain for a very long time. The last is a 700 stock for a SS 30-06. It has G-1 for a base coat.

Earl - You're dangerous to yourself when you get creative. Silk?? Maybe, maybe not, never tried. Follow the directions.It isn't that hard.

The new Min Wax wipe on poly is far superior and easy to apply.
Comes on Matte & Gloss. Takes many, many coats, easy to fix any bo-bos and very durable. Next best thing to airbrushing on automotive clear coat.

Results: (wood demanded a high gloss finish)









Yeah that's a factory 721 B stock !

Not as dangerous as trying to use those silk thermals to stay warm with. Their working out fine for applying the finish with though. No streaks or lint. Actually it's been an easy job. Alot less mess than how I was doing it. Should finish my last coat tomorrow. Should I let the stock sit for any length of time before doing the linseed,0000 synthetic steel wool,treatment?

Them's pretty nice. Wish I could find a decent stick of myrtle to work with.

I'm LIKING #2.

Interthem,
Minwax site says that the wipe-ons are for interior use only. How's it holding up? Actually the spar urethane wipes on and off easily.

I never said red wood stain.... you did. Say what I say

Good luck Earl. Looks like your getting into the groove.For curing, doesn't the product say how long it takes. I sometimes have put on 4 coats in 1 day of the spar urethane.after your last finish coat and you are where you want it. Wait a month or so before you apply your wax.Wax on, Wax off.

THANKS,T. I was meaning down time before waxing.

Minwax can says to let dry 4hrs before another coat but of course that's when brushing it on. I was doing two coats a day. What I really like is the no sanding in between. Maybe a spot or two if I felt something but not much at all. Surface is as smooth as glass.

YUP, Do you like the look? Was I right about the gloss and how it brings out the character of the grain? On the final couple of coats, the oil & 0000 synth. wool rub down should make it look like an oil finish.You can use the True oil, but I usually cut it with more oil so it doesn't dry so fast and is more workable.Wet the wool pad up, rub it with the grain and wipe off with a clean "Shop Rag" - The lint free Paper towel type that comes in a box. A friend, who does exihibition grade stocks, will use those very cheap restaurant or party napkins that kinda has a sheen to them. He swears by this.But he doesn't use a hardware store finish, either. He uses something like the Holland & Holland oil finish. Nothing like the looks of an oil finish.

Yea,I'm liking the look. What's good about applying it this way is that the change in look is gradual.
Deleted the pics I took and got the wife to take a quick pic as she was heading out.

Bad pics, Earl, But you should be able to look into the finish and see every bit of grain & each color. I think your almost there.Show a pic of the final rub down that looks like oil & not so shiny.

Will do.

I gave the mirror image blank from the top stock to DaninAlaska to build a 721 stock for a 300H&H, but it failed to prosper (aside from the abuse points generated on my behalf) and needs some attention soon. Funny thing is the proper picture of that stock is from the other side where a large black stripe runs through the grip and then bounces up into the butt. The two blanks are perfect mirror images and include the black stripes.

I have nothing in the way of myrtle blanks now. And they are hard to find in better grades. I know where there was (is?) one here in town that is pretty decent and over 20 years cut... but I have no idea what it might cost to get it. Estate has a bunch of wood with only a couple sticks worth doing anything with and they think they are all valuable...