Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Gunsmithing Marine Spar Varnish question(s)...Sitka Deer??

Anyone used this as a basecoat on a stock then finished with topcoats of something else? Used it exclusively? I have some for sealing action area and barrel channels, etc. just haven't used it from start to "finish". Thanks.

I've used it on one stock. I applied it and let it dry for a couple days then applied it again and sanded with wet or dry sand paper while it was still wet. This seals the pores. Let it dry good again. Rub with fine steel wool then apply tongue oil. I really like the way it turned out. Good looking oil finish.

I just got finished doing that exact thing on a walnut stock. Several coats of marine spar varnish, rubbed on with a rag (let each coat dry for three days and then "sand" it with 0000 steel wool, clean and apply the next coat); and then finish with a couple of coats of Tru-Oil. Looks good so far.

Its the only finish i use anymore--the 1st coat i thin 3 parts mineral spirits to 1 marine spar sanded in with 320 sandpaper-as much as it will take wipe off lightlt then leave it alone for at least a wk--i put about 5 coats on using progressivly more marine to mineral spirits--sometimes put a touch of stain in it. I end up with about 4 parts marine to 1 part mineral spirits-each coat sanded in the last couple of coats with 400 to 600 wet-dry--it makes a really nice finish that looks like rubbed oil but will take ALOT of abuse.

larryt is using the product properly. First coats are to be applied thin, and sanded with wet or dry paper between coats 320-400. Overnight dry is fine, after the second coat start adding less thinner, final coat should be as close to full strength as possible. That will depend on how the coats are being applied spray Vs brush.

After sanding wipe down the surface with a painters tack cloth. Before the final coat sand with 600 wet or dry, then tack cloth. If you like it can be polished and waxed with a good furniture polish/wax, just allow about 45 days for the product to cure before applying any polish or wax.

Frank D

I got the information on this finish a couple years ago on the accurate arms forum--Jack Belk was who posted it--both he and ray atkinson said the key to this finish--to make it totally waterproof is to let that 1st diluted saturated coat dry 2wks-then just a day for the following ones--im the impatient sort so i waited 1 wk and it did turn out just fine--but those 2 are as knowledgeable as i have ever read.

Sounds interesting.........Honestly IMO the extened dry time of the first coat won't help or hurt, the key is to make sure the first 2 coats or so are thin and pentetrate the surface to seal the pores up. The sanding between coats insures proper adhesion. The final cure insures that the product is hard, and durable. If you have the time to allow the 2 week dry time of the first coat it won't be a problem.

Keep in mind VOC laws have changed over the past few years, and products dry, and cure differently now due to these new formulations that are supposed to help the environment. The best varnishes are long gone due to these laws.

I have looked at failed jobs in the paint industry for over 25 years representing many paint and varnish compaines, and one thing is for certain, improper prep, and rushing a job will surely ruin it. Good topic and good info.

You certainly won't go wrong following larryt's advise!!!!!!!!!!

Frank D