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I purchased a pair of Asolo Sasslongs some time ago. What is the best waterproofing to use? I've heard Nikwax, but which one? Also, spray or paste?

Thanks!

moosedrool:

There's no such thing as waterproof leather boots. But the Asolo Sasslongs come about as close as any. I own a pair and I keep them coated with a waterproofing agent named Alpine Boot Repel, which I buy at a local mountaineering store. It's a mixture of oil and parafin. Do not use pure mink oil because it will make the leather so soft that the boots will start to break down at the seams. Wear a good pair of gaiters like the OR Crockodiles or Kenetreks and take extra socks.

Last November it snowed about a foot and that started melting the next day. We hiked and hunted in that melting snow for five days. The leather was soaked so bad that they froze at night and it was a real pain getting them on in the morning. But my feet were never more than slightly damp from perspiration.

KC

I used Olbenhauf's(sp) on my Meindl Perfekts and it worked very well. No complaints.

I agree with the above statement though, good gaitors make a huge difference.

Obenauf's LP is the best I have used since my first pair of Pierre Paris boots in 1961. I do not use anything else and have not for several years. It is even better than Montana Pitch Blend.

Anyone ever used BearGuard? It's made in Maine with real bear fat and bee's wax. Was gonna order a tin to use on some new LL Bean hunting boots.

I've been thinking of going back to sno-seal. I know it doesn't preserve the leather, but if you put preservative on first, maybe that's enough. The reason I'm thinking sno-seal is that in my experience nothing else - including Obenauf's - does nearly as well as sno-seal does.

I use snoseal on the leather uppers of my sorels, but they seldom get wet.

I've not had very good success when I use snoseal on hiking boots. I've applied multiple very warm coats and in wet grass and brush, snoseal is mostly gone by lunch. My theory is that the blades of grass and brush stems whip the snoseal off the leather.

i use sno seal on all my leather boots. Of course we don't have anywhere near the snow that some of you guys have. It works fine for the tn. weather but not sure how it would do in the northern places.

Has anyone tried Oregon Trail from Baker Shoe on your nubuk. Did it soften and ruin them? I "think" this may have happened to me recently.

Try Thompson's Waterseal. That stuff works for just about everything. I use it on manti tarps, rain fly awnings, framepack sacks, mountaineering tents, gaitors, boots, what have you.

Obenaufs and Seam grip around the rand

How do you apply to a tent?

How long to dry and how long does it last?

Ribka:

There's several ways to apply the substance to tent fabric;

For canvas wall tents, I just wad them up and stuff them into a 55 gallon barrel and then periodically add Thompson's till the entire tent sits overnight in a pool of waterproofing liquid.

For nylon mountaineering tents or 4-season backpacker tents, I completely set-up the tent and then apply Thompson's to the outside of the rainfly and the vestibule (only) and, to the outside of the floor and bathtub walls. A large paintbrush works well for this application.

Maverick

Thanks. Will try this year

Sno Seal certainly works but I think it can dry out leather and cause it to crack. I'd do saddle soap and then maybe mink oil for storage and only do the sno seal prior to winter, and only re-apply if it is really needed.

I've used sno seal and still have a several jars but it softens the leather.

The Nikwax (liquid) sold at REI and all the other big "backpacking" retailers: I've never had luck applying it (yes, I followed the directions) or in the field.

Nikwax Paste: Seems to be a lot like sno seal but with much less petroleum smell (just a hint) than sno seal. I've put it on gloves and one pair of old boots but can't really give a good assessment.

Revivex Gel. My favorite.

Straight beeswax is the best I've used. It works better if applied to new boots before putting other stuff on. Warm boots gently, and use a hairdryer cautiously. I've heard that 140 degrees will bake leather so err on the side of low heat. I got my last batch from a craft store.

Obenaufs is excellent. Snowseal is WAY down the list. I started using Snoseal in the late 60's I think, and have lots of experience with it. I loved it at first, but it doesn't come close to other products for waterproofing nor lasting. Beeswax lasts the longest, straight, not softened or made easier to apply by oil or solvent additives.

I've used Nikwax boot grease and it is pretty good. Surprisingly to me, the Nikwax paint-on liquid that looks like milk has been much better than I expected both in waterproofing and in how long it lasts. It has seemed to work best for me on somewhat worn boots that are damp when the stuff is applied. JRaw, not sure how to account for our different experiences with it.

My Sassalongs are a remarkably comfortable boot for me right out of the box. I have two (or three?) seasons on them, with lots of winter use in wet snow and coastal rain forest. Wish they had a more water resistant uncut bellows type tongue rather than cut and stitched, but I got a steal of a price so tried them.

Sasslongs are Goretex. So if you read the info that came with the boots - they recommend Nikwax products that are safe for Goretex. Any "traditional" boot grease with petroleum (sno-seal), is bad for leather, and really bad for Goretex. It plugs the pores and rots it away the Goretex. I think Obenaufs is the best grease out there for traditional "oil tanned" leather without a waterproof breathable liner. Sasslongs are chrome tanned (at least the green ones are, I have two pair), so stick with the manufacturer recommendations, as long as the Goretex holds up, and stay away from real boot grease. After the Goretex fails (for me that's about 2 years) then the best you can do is coat the leather with a protectant that tries to keep the leather dry as long as possible. You might stick with the Nikwax stuff, but if that's not working you could move over to Obenaufs, or bees wax. I try to stay away from anything with animal fats (encourages bacteria, rot, in the leather) or petroleum (dries out the leather). Good luck.