Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Gunsmithing Screwed up bolt on remmy, replace?

So today was not a good one. Trying to settle on a 243 hunting load for the kids, tried a load that locked up the bolt on a 700 adl. I hammered the bolt open, in trying to remove the case from bolt face the flimsy lip by the ejector button cracked a bit. Thinking to show it to a smith to see if it can be fixed, or maybe replace the bolt. Not looking to spend much on this one, just get it running again as a first hunting rifle. The load was under max according to a couple references, but obviously not for this gun. A lesson to start well under max data.

I know if I replace the bolt it will have to be fit to the gun for proper headspacing and such. May have to get the action checked for stress fissures? Just thought I would mention it here, see if anyone has some advice to offer.

Anyone have a sa bolt, blued, to sell?

I have two bolts. they have the extractor but no firing pin or ejector pin. I can fit and headspace it for you but would need the action and barrel. Bolts are $90 shipped.

Would it be better to have a Sako type extractor installed?

It wasn't an extractor issue, it was a forcing brass into places it shouldn't be issue. A sako style may have done the same or better....but the case rim likely would have just ripped off.

What do you guys think about the action, would it need to be checked for stress fractures? The load was 37.5 gr Varget with a Barnes 85 tsx, not sure why it responded the way it did. The extractor seems fine.

Jkob, may buy your bolt, trying to see what is available locally.

I have seen a few that had to be opend with a hammer, and all went on to shoot again....but I don't think anyone is going to offer grace without having a peek.

I was commenting on after the fact.

When a Sako type extractor is installed, wouldn't that fix the problem with the damaged piece of metal holding the old extractor in place? Isn't the damaged piece removed and the bolt face filled in with basically a metal ring, silver soldered in place, then milled out for the new extractor to be installed?

I was thinking that this install might be cheaper than buying another bolt, and the smith work involved if it doesn't headspace. Hard to tell without all the info needed.

It would depend on exactly where it broke. The sako has to go in a pretty narrow window or it will hammer your scope or not eject at all.