Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunting Rifles Painting a stock

I just bought a used Savage 11 in 243. The price was good and I thought a camo paint on the stock might be fun. I have pulled barrel and bolt it has the black plastic stock Any insight on doing this Thanx DWG

Krylon Fusion is your friend.

I prefer Rustoleum to Krylon.

Paint, add camo and then matte clear.

More light coats are better than fewer heavy coats.

Use a good cleaner/degreaser on it before you paint!

I have done a few composite stocks. As ironeagle has said Krylon Fusion is your friend.... specifically designed for plastics.

Used Break-Free powder blaster from Wal-mart to clean and degrease then follow nsaqams' suggestion. If I knew how to post pics, I would. It's fun and addicting to see what kind of camo you are capable of....Good luck.

I painted my first stock un-successfully due to inadequate prep. I used the supposed plastic-bonding paints but the finish just could not hold on despite being scuffed and completely solvent degreased.

I nailed it on round two by going to the local professional auto paint store and asking about products to prep plastic bumpers and trim.

3M SCUFF-IT abrasive paste on a wet scuff pad to clean and texture surface, even in the small detail areas with a tooth brush.

Bulldog Adhesion Promoter, comes in an aerosal spray can. Spray clean prepped surface before applying paint.

On that stock I used Coyote Brown Aluma-Hyde II by Brownells. It is a slow single stage air cure in a spray can but it is way harder and solvent resistant than anything you can buy at the home improvement or auto parts store.

As far as technique it all depends on what you are going for. I hang my stock by the slings using semi stout wire. That way I can twist the stock into any position and i will stay put. Don't get into a rush. Krylon dries fast enough and I use a fan on low to help. You can do a stock in not much time at all if you want.

The best thing as far as looks is to keep a proper and consistent distance from the stock. Too close and it will run - and this will happen fast. Guessing I tried to stay perhaps 16 inches away from the surface. One tip- black primer can be used as a paint color as it is nice and

All this talk has me hankering to try the splatter technique...or sponge technique....or webbing spray. Should I buy more rifles so I can paint them - what is the consensus? :-)

Practice a little on cardboard first by changing the order of the colors you plan to use. See which one floats your boat best.

scuff it with sandpaper, makes a HUGE difference in how well the paint sticks.

or so does grey primer...use of both helps immensely more..

Any of you fellas put Matte Alumi-Hyde II over Krylon? Thinking it might toughen the finish a bit. Might pull it too, I'd imagine...

Does the Krylon clear really make the finish more durable?

It is fun.

Not exactly camo, but here is something I did a while back. Let your imagination be your guide. You can always sand it down and do over if you don't like your first results.

I call it my "rattlecan Remington 700 KS".

Lightly sanded stock.
Three coats of camo sand color about 20 to 30 minutes between coats.

One application each of black and gold webbing spray about 20 minutes apart.
+/- 3 hours.

Two coats of clear matte spray to seal the webbing spray next day.
total time, +/- 4 hours.
















Best

GWB

Been having fun painting stocks... A couple notes but defer to those with more experience.


Rough is good but I took a plastique stock too far and tore up the surface something fierce using a rasp. Took lots of paint layers, sanding, and extra effort to get it back to a decent.

A couple stocks I've used Rustoleum multi-color textured outdoor paint on then covered with another color turned out dang nice, no salt shaker needed...



I think there are more than one kind of Krylon clear. The Krylon Fusion clear coat "UV protectant' is real thin... The regular Krylon Crystal Clear is better. Rustoleum's Painter's Touch Ultra-Cover matte clear is holding up very well. Clear coat is definitely a plus IME.



Wondering if anyone knows of a rattle-can clear coat that is durable AND chemical resistant?

From splatter:



to webbing:



...it's all fun!
DMc

GDub...

as always I LOVE your stuff and pics..that is exactly what I had in mind for a stock I currently have that needs an upgrade in the looks dept...around here I have to evidently order rattle can webbing...NO ONE carries it.. not even the new Home Depot Store or Walmart, or even Michael's Craft Store....

the joys of living in Nowhere Oregon...

hey also can you PM me your phone number....I never write stuff down anymore... time we touched base again, its been a while...

cheers
seafire

I used pretty much the same technique as GWB with Krylon Fusion.

First attempt, my rifle, turned out ok but not great. I've found that individual cans of webbing spray differently. Some will intermittently spray some blobs and others more consistently spray a fine webbing.



A few that I did for a friend

I've found Jo-Ann fabrics to be the best place to order Krylon Webbing spray online.

+1, and scrub with acetone before you apply primer. As someone also said, Aluma Hyde from Brownells is a clear coat finisher and is really tough.

Clean with alchohol before painting. Acetone does the same thing but not better and it is flamable like crazy. Clear matte, at least three coats, will make a big difference. Fusion based paint for the plastic, primer on the metal. Texture paint if you want some grip(it takes this stuff a good while to dry-I usually give it a solid hour)

So have any of you painted a beat up wooden stock? Any differences in prep?

I have a walnut stock I'm trying to decide whether to refinish or paint. I'd prefer a nice wood finish, but the stock "has issues"; it was the victim of a previous owner's do-it-yourself bedding job, the inletting for the bottom metal was poorly done, etc. It would probably be easier to get the stock in good shape for painting than for refinishing.