Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Savage Collectors lets see those 1920 savage's

my brother Bill's 250-3000 1920

here's another look at it also it shoots great they never should have stopped making them

Triggers take a little getting used to but I'm a fan, too.

[img:right][/img]

Here's mine, a .250 with bolt mounted Lyman peep.



Rod

I'm a fan also. I have a 1920 in 250 and one 1920/26 model in 300. The 1920 has very little use on it and the checkering and bore are excellent.

All very nice!

they are all very nice! great pics! now I need to find me one that needs a good home

My .300. When I got it, it had been re-varnished right over the original finish, and slopped onto the metal. I stripped it, used a diluted light red mahogany dye to achieve the old factory red color, then gave it 10 coats of spar varnish. Rubbed out and waxed people have mistaken it for an oil finish. Re-cut checkering. Devilishly accurate, but no deer killed- yet. Original 2-stage trigger pull breaks clean after initial take-up, no problem.



The home made Lyman 54. Elevation lock screw since replaced with a knurled knob.



A pistol powder measure I made. (The pic was sitting right next to the sight pic,, so I thought what the heck- someone might get a kick out of it!) Interchangeable rotors for different charges of powder from 2.5gr. Bullseye up to 10gr. Unique.

Nice!

Wish i knew how to take and post pictures (hence being called the village idiot of Teeterville) but maybe not as these look very good original condition compared to mine. lol Does anyone know of an after market trigger that will work on a 1920?

Here's another posting of my one and only, cherished and lonely, 250-3000 M1920:



Still looking for a matching 300.

Did you bring this one to the Woodstock gun show a few years back? I remember looking at one that was in nice condition with a factory peep sight.

Yes I did. I had several unsolicited offers for that rifle at the show.

Sorry, but I can't place your face...

Nice looking rifles guys. The M1920s do have military triggers,
but I could get used to it.

They feel like two stage military triggers, but strictly speaking they aren't the same. The triggers in 1920's act as the bolt stop/release which isn't the case with Mausers, Springfields, Krags, etc. I suspect this was a cost cutting move by Savage, and not one of their better ideas.

I have a 1920 that was reworked by G&H with a Mauser style trigger and a bolt stop copied from the Winchester 70. It has the best trigger of any Savage 1920 or 20/26 that I've owned, but the safety isn't safe anymore. I believe that retired (?) MI smith Bob Snapp(sp?) has done a similar rework, but I've never seen 1 that he'd done.

Jeff

Yeah, Jeff, putting a safety on a conversion like that would be tricky. Sounds like a neat rifle.

The trigger on a Winchester M54 is rough also.

A friend of mine reworked a 20/26 action to use a Timney trigger for a SR Mauser with a side safety in lieu of the tang safety. I have wondered if a Timney for a tang safety Ruger 77 could be use on a reworked 1920 or 20/26 action, but have never been motivated to spend the time and $$ to test the theory.

The G&H 1920 is unique. It has a larger/heavier stock, a 24" heavy sporter barrel, a G&H side-mount, and uses a Lyman Alaskan as its primary sight. 250-3000 of course. It is my 2nd most prized 1920, after the 1 that belonged to Larry Koller.

Jeff

I also have a reworked trigger on my 20/26. Not sure who did it. Had some issues with it initially that I believe I took care of. One of these days I'll get around to completely disassembling it and I'll get a better idea of all the modification made. If you look at the photo you can see a slit cut behind the factory ball detent and a spring loaded bolt stop added, this works very well (bottom pictures shows the bolt stop in action). I can generally press it with the tip of my finger to release the bolt, if you have fat fingers you may need to use a tool. This is simple enough.

Next you will notice an extra hole drilled just in front to the right of the sear. This is threaded with a screw that can be adjusted from the top. I'm guessing that they used this to take up the extra trigger pull length. The problem is if the sear is taken down too far that it doesn't have enough engagement with the bolt. If this happens, the safety will hold however once the safety is released the rifle could fire if someone previously pulled the trigger with the safety on. At least that's my theory until I take it fully apart. I have another trigger & sear that I got off a gun that was parted out. I don't believe they messed with the original trigger but thought I should grab the parts while I could. I could convert it back to original but I do like the way the current trigger feels. I just need to watch for wear on the sear and make sure the engagement is enough for any play in the bolt.

Anyone else have a similar modification and know who may have done this work?