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SO how do you do it and with what???????
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Campfire Outfitter
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SO how do you do it and with what??????? A good squirt of Ballistol on the bolt and carrier. I try to keep the bolt face dry.
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Campfire Ranger
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Campfire Ranger
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I lube the recoil spring, wet but not sloppy wet. No grease just something a little heavy. I lube the rings on the bolt where it fits into the bolt carrier and I lube the bolt carrier on the bottom rails where it rides in the upper. Wet but not sloppy. I prefer an oil that is a little on the heavy side, especially in the hot months and something a little lighter in the cold months. kwg
For liberals and anarchists, power and control is opium, selling envy is the fastest and easiest way to get it. TRR. American conservative. Never trust a white liberal. Malcom X Current NRA member.
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I use Machine Gunners lube and hit the shiny spots on the bolt carrier, lightly on the bolt lugs but keep the bolt face and chamber dry, the gas rings and wear band on the bolt, cam pin, a drop on the mouth of the gas key, pivot points on the trigger/hammer and that's about it.
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Joined: Oct 2009
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Okie: Go to www.gunsmokeenterprises.net check their "videos" there is a tutorial in there that will tell you pretty much all you will ever need to know about AR's. G
"If you don't stand up for what you believe,,you stand for nothing"
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Thanks for the link I will go look at it but I was just wondering how these folk do it. I had been using CLP but after watching a few YouTube videos I got to thinking and tried some super lube on the bolt carrier. It is a pretty thin clear grease that spreads easily and made the gun operate very well. I have also order a bottle of the Wilson Combat oil & grease to give it a try.
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Joined: Sep 2009
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Campfire Outfitter
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Thanks for the link I will go look at it but I was just wondering how these folk do it. I had been using CLP but after watching a few YouTube videos I got to thinking and tried some super lube on the bolt carrier. It is a pretty thin clear grease that spreads easily and made the gun operate very well. I have also order a bottle of the Wilson Combat oil & grease to give it a try. Most likely a waste of time and money. By the time a DI AR blows all the oil off of the bolt and carrier, it'll need to be wiped down to get rid of the carbon that has covered everything. Machine guns are a different critter due to the heat they produce. Keeping a well built (good parts) AR running ain't complicated, keep it wet.
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Besides anyone running 1/9 twists, UTG accessories and NCStar optics on their package guns doesn't invoke alot of confidence.
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Campfire Tracker
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Campfire Tracker
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SO how do you do it and with what??????? A good squirt of Ballistol on the bolt and carrier. I try to keep the bolt face dry. Holy cow! Someone besides me who uses Ballistol! Thought I was the only one left. For my ARs, I don't use Ballistol on the BCG though. I use Mobile 1. And a generous amount. Just pour it on, reassemble. Ballistol goes anywhere else I think I need it. Actually use Ballistol for leather and wood more than anything else.
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Ballistol seems to stay in place a bit longer than CLP. I must try Mobil 1. What weight do you use?
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Campfire Ranger
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A product called FrogLube seems to be of interest also.
Retired cat herder.
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Ballistol seems to stay in place a bit longer than CLP. I must try Mobil 1. What weight do you use? I use 30 weight. But only because it's the easiest to find. It doesn't matter as much as you'd think. I've used 5-30 and 10-30 at different times. When in the Corps, we used diesel oil when we could. FWIW, if cost was the same, I'd use SLP 2000. I like it better. But Mobile 1 works great and is dirt cheap and easy to find when you forget your lube.
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Campfire Tracker
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High temp lithium wheel bearing grease. By the time I actually need to clean them the barrel is shot out. Every couple thousand rounds it will start to get sluggish and when it does just squirt whatever liquid lube is handy to loosen it up. You do not have to scrape/wipe/remove carbon off of anything. They will run just fine for thousands upon thousands of rounds as long as they are lubed.
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Last edited by Bushmaster1313; 08/07/12.
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Walk softly and carry a big bore!
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5-w30, I figure motor oil is desined to take heat thus it should work well in an AR, the synthtic makes since to because it should keep the carbon in more suspension and make cleaning easier
�The constitution of the United States asserts that all power is inherent in the people, that they may exercise it by themselves, that it is their right and duty to be at all times armed!� � Thomas Jefferson
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Campfire Kahuna
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Campfire Kahuna
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I've been using Shooters Choice FP-10 lube and Remoil for years, but recently switched to ballistoil. It works well. Lots of my friends use Mobil 1 & swear by it for 1911's & AR-15s if it works inside today's high temp engines, I don't see why it shouldn't work great. And just think how long 1 quart of motor oil will last !
"Allways speak the truth and you will never have to remember what you said before..." Sam Houston Texans, "We say Grace, We Say Mam, If You Don't Like it, We Don't Give a Damn!"
~Molɔ̀ːn Labé Skýla~
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slip2000 EWL, I don't worry about too much, only too little.
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I like Mobil 1. I run it in my truck and my Exmark zero turn mower uses it for hydraulic fluid so its plentiful in my shop.
Another oil I'm highly impressed with is Lucas Gun Oil, its a little expensive but a little goes along ways.
For hunting it is also scent free.
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You know, the older I get, the more I'm coming around to this kind of approach. In fact, I've got a Ruger MkIII that's never been field-stripped or cleaned. Coming up on 2,000 rounds, now. Only one failure to feed. May just squirt a little 3-1 in there prior to my next range trip. For sure, I'm going to try the lithium grease in the AR. High temp lithium wheel bearing grease.
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