Take the screw out of the side that hold the lock in an clean it . U will have to take ram rod out and wedge out then barrel then lock break free clean the lock up ,dry it then use transmission fluid for oil .Put back togather but don't overly titeing the screw should work great then
IMO savage is probably pretty close . Unless what your telling us is that the lock will not cock to the full cock and hangs only at the � . In which case its a issue with the trigger .
If that�s NOT the case then the problem is most likely the fly .
a) its not there . IE the PO lost it
b) its gummed up and not falling into place
c) it has a burr that�s catching the sear and acting like its catching the half cock .
Take the lock out and inspect it . Work the lock slowly ,with the lock in the up right position . you should see the fly move down and cover the � cock as you work the lock from the fired to full cock and back again . If you don�t see the fly . Then that�s your problem . You need one .
If you do see it but when the lock is in the full cock position , the tip of the fly is still up near the full , then you probably have a burr . If that�s the case then when you fire the lock and it catches , you will see the sear hung up on the fly .
The way a lock works for a double set or single set trigger is different then one with a single bar trigger .
When you use either of the above two without being set , they work just as a single bar trigger does .
IF it�s a hunting type set trigger NOT a target set trigger . The difference between the two is that . One allows the lock to be fire without setting the trigger . The other requires the trigger to be set before you can cock the lock to full .
Let me see if I can explain this difference.
With a single bar trigger , when you start your pull , what your doing is placing pressure against the sear . When that pressure reaches a given point , the sear will slip from the tumbler notch . The required amount of presser to trip the sear is determined by 3 things
1) the depth of the full cock notch
2) the angle of the full cock notch
3) the point and angle of applied leverage. Ie. the position of the trigger .
When enough pressure applied to slip the sear , our finger is still creating pressure on the trigger . As the resistance to that pressure is suddenly reduce , our reflex is not quick enough to let the pressure off the trigger . Because of that we hold the sear away from the tumbler with finger pressure and the lock falls completely .
With a double or single set trigger , of which there are different designs . But basically with the most common design like the one you have .
The set trigger is the one firing the lock . NOT the trigger your pulling on .
What happens is that as you pull the set trigger , the click you hear or feel , is the sound made of that trigger engaging under a notch in the front trigger .
The set trigger is then held to that notch by spring pressure .
All the trigger adjustment screw does is set the amount of aloud engagement of the rear trigger ,to that notch in the front trigger. As you pull the front trigger your changing the angle of the notch that�s holding the set trigger in place . At a give length of movement the set trigger �rear trigger � is released /slips from the notch .
The force of the trigger spring then slams the rear trigger up into the sear with enough force to disengage it from the tumbler notch . But because there is not the continual pressure being applied to the sear , the sear is not held away from the tumbler . So as it slides along it .If the tumbler doesn�t have a interrupter/ �Fly � to cover the � cock Or the fly doesn�t fall down and cover the � cock , then the pressure of the sear spring will force the sear to fall into the � cock notch .
Where with the fly or properly working fly , it covers the half cock notch , allowing the sear to slide along the fly and past the � cock . .
Now if that fly gets a small burr on its edge , the sear can catch that small burr and act like its catching the � cock .
This burr is most commonly caused by a dirty lock or repeated test firing of the lock with it or the gun laid on its side .
What happens is that as you cock the lock with the gun up right , the tumbler turns along the sear . The fly is dragged up towards the full cock . But it hits its stop just short of covering the full cock . As the sear drops into the full cock , the fly is supposed to fall down and cover the � cock .
But if the fly becomes gummed up so it doesn�t fall away OR if your one of those people who continually cock and fire the lock with the gun on its side , then what happens is the sear pushes the fly in front of it as the lock is fired . When the fly hits its lower stop , instead of the sear gliding smoothly across the fly , the sudden jar of the fly stopping creates a bounce to the sear . That bounce then starts to produce a burr. When the burr gets big enough then the sear will catch it and stop the lock
Anyway . Probably way more then you wanted to know . But IMO if one knows how a lock and set trigger works , its very easy to diagnose and narrow down whats possibly causing an issue