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wtroger Offline OP
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I am making an action wrench to remove barrels on Remington 700's. Question. Is the clamping force from the bolts all that keeps the wrench from slipping on the round action?
I see the wheeler wrenches has a hole for the 1/4-28 action bolt surely you don't rely on that to keep it from slipping. they also talk about (but don't show) cut out for the recoil lug. I am going to assume the bolt and cut out is for reassembly and alignment of the lug. I have turned the center hole 1.356 and will drill and tap the clamping bolts then saw it in half. I can mill the recess for the recoil lug and drill the 1/4 hole if it is necessary. Any thoughts will be appreciated.

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The clamping force is all that holds it. Use powdered sugar between the action wrench and the action to keep it from slipping. (or use powdered rosin) I use powdered sugar because it cleans up easier, is cheaper and easier to get and seems to work as good or better.

Be careful to not overtighten the wrench, or it clamps the action onto the barrel and makes it harder to remove.

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Having the wrench tightened up and using the 1/4x28 bolt is what keeps the wrench from slipping.I wouldn't rely on just clamping force on something as thin-walled as an action.

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The one I made has a recess that also bears on the recoil lug

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wtroger Offline OP
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Well I made one today and made the cut out for the lug and drilled it for the 1/4-28 bolt guess tomorrow I see if it works.

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wtroger Offline OP
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Worked like a champ. It never moved. Had to have about 2ft of cheater on the 18 inch handle. Thanks for all the input. I used the powdered sugar for some reason non of the sports stores around here carry rosin.
I would post pictures of it if no one will laugh or scoff at the design.

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It worked didn't it? Post up the pictures, if anybody sticks their nose up at it, tell em to pound sand.

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Get a dead blow hammer, usually one pop on the handle and they are loose

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Would love to see pictures!

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Here is one I made. It's a perfect fit

[Linked Image]



Originally Posted by BrentD

I would not buy something that runs on any kind of primer given the possibility of primer shortages and even regulations. In fact, why not buy a flintlock? Really. Rocks aren't going away anytime soon.
IC B3

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wtroger Offline OP
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Here are some pics. I started with 2 5/8 round stock. The handle is threaded 5/8-18
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]

Attached Images
wrench1.JPG (43.91 KB, 82 downloads)
wrench2.JPG (44.26 KB, 82 downloads)
Last edited by wtroger; 01/31/13.
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I would leave the 1/4 bolt out as well, for popping a factory barrel the action wrench needs to shoulder the lug as well. The barrel is the perishable item. A lot of smiths make a relief cut in front of the lug to make it easier.

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wtroger Offline OP
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I realized that the 1/4 bolt is for indexing the action wrench to the action for recoil lug alignment. And is not needed for barrel removal. When installing a barrel insert the bolt then tighten the wrench down then remove the bolt set the lug in the slot and screw the barrel on.

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If your barrel bushings are good, you will have a hard time telling it was pulled.


Originally Posted by BrentD

I would not buy something that runs on any kind of primer given the possibility of primer shortages and even regulations. In fact, why not buy a flintlock? Really. Rocks aren't going away anytime soon.
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The action wrench that I made had a hole for a 1/4 28 bolt through the front guard screw hole. I find that it allows me to get all the torque I need to remove tough barrels without relying totally on compressing on the action ring. As Blanket pointed out, a good whack with a dead blow hammer and off they come. That Blanket guy comes up with a good idea every once in a while. grin


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