Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunting Optics Wheeler Scope Level Tool

Fifth ,

Here's an article that helped me.

http://www.longrangehunting.com/articles/scope-mounting-1.php

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This article has been modified since I last read it.
There wasn't a scope mount set up kit for sale back then.


I use one of the little bubble levels that mounts to the rifle base.
My base is weaver/picatinny type and levels can be bought that mount and stay on the rifle.
These are long range set ups.

Anyway if you can get creative and -tape -glue or wire a little bubble level on top of some place on the rifle that you trust "enough" as being level you can use that system.

I'll pretend you have a level somehow mounted -now mount the scope as best you can -zero it [shooting] at 100 yards in good conditions.
Now put a big new target up -use a level to make sure the target is level [target itself not canted] shoot two shots at the center OK you hit the center.
Turn scope elevation dial all the way UP shoot two more shots if bullets hit at 1 oclock -off to right of line on leveled target -fine.

Now turn scope elevation dial all the way DOWN -shoot two shots now shots hit at 7 oclock .

Mark you scope tube and ring with something that won't hurt it -I use a yellow paint stick marker I got at home depot.

Loosen your scope enough to turn it a small amount -turn your scope counter clockwise a small amount .

Tighten the scope down looking closely at mark you made on the top ring and scope tube.

Shoot gun two shots low and two shots high until shots stay on lines.
Make sure you are keeping the rifle level when making your two shots .

When high and low shots are on the line your crosshair is perpendicular with the center of the bore.

This takes a bit of work but when finished it makes it worth it to me.

I didn't reread the article -but it use to explain that barrels "throw" shots -you could put the most accurate lazer aimed down the center of the barrel perfectly --a bullet would in theory hit the same spot -Darrel Holland says it probably wouldn't.
The torgue and other stuff involved don't work out that way.

Yep, same here. I also back up and "eyeball" it to make sure it looks right (crosshairs dissecting the center of the bore). And then as JB mentioned, tighten one ring very slowly, alternating side to side, to keep it level.

I am about to start shooting targets at some longer ranges with my latest rifle. We'll see how well I mounted the scope shortly ...

I have the old Segway and the parabola. Use both of them together and works like a charm. I tighten alternating screws on one ring checking for scope movement after every half turn of the screw. If all is square then tighten the second ring the same way. Next I check it with my bore sight tool to set the crosshairs to center and then make the finial adjustments at the range shooting vertical strings. takes a lot of time but when you are done you know it is right.

Did you try the Parabola tool (you allude to having tried them all)? Hard to imagine this tool not working well for anybody...

No the Parabola tool is new to me but I have give on doing it
myself.TOO many screw ups on my part!

If you are using a one piece base, you don't need all of this stuff. The best method I've found is using a set of feeler gauges.

Pics? Where and why are you using feeler gauges? To hold a level on top of the base? These are questions......

I ordered one of these last week, and received it today. The quality seems to be superb. I'll try it out tomorrow after work and post up with my thoughts. I have a few rifles that I feel I've never to get the reticles quite perfect, even with the wheeler level level level tool. I hope this is what I've been needing!

I've never taken any pictures, but Lowlight from SH uses this method and you can see him using it in this video to mount this Nightforce. If you skip to 2:40, he is inserting the feeler gauges.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SM_eHOtEUPA#at=162

With this method you don't need any levels. I've also heard of guys on SH using playing cards, but I've never personally done that. The idea is you put the feeler gauges between the scope base and the flat part on the bottom of the turret housing. This levels the scope with the base. This seems to be the preferred method of many on Snipers Hide and you can find a ton of information about it on there. It's the best method I've ever used, and much better than any of these "tools" that claim to help you level it.

Basically what I do is stack the feeler gauges so it's a firm fit, tighten the scope down, and pull the feeler gauges out. It's simple, cheap, and flat out works. One word of advice though, if you put a little oil or lube on the feeler gauges they will be easier to slide out after you get the scope tight. This only works with a one piece base though, so on rifles that I'm using 2 piece bases on (which is rare), I still use levels to level the rifle and then use something plumb or a plumb line to level the reticle. While you can usually get it very good this way and plenty good enough for hunters, I've found it to be extremely tedious and hard to get it exact. I much prefer getting a 1 piece base and using the feeler gauges.

I still think trial and error by using your eyeball is the only thing that works for me. If you pull the bolt, then step back a bit and see if the verticle line intersects the center of the tang and bore. If you leave the bolt in, then the bolt handle hanging down at an angle plays tricks on your eyes so you need to pull it out.

Then test it at the range on a target that is leveled.