Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Ask The Gunwriters Load Development for Hunting Ammunition

Yeah, that should do the job. The seating die could be set for the right COAL back at the shop. Just carefully seat each bullet and shoot.

I've learned something.

DF

The fun and satisfaction of hand loading is the result of your hard work and experience that ends up in a load that shoots well in your rifle. I know everyone's idea of a "great shooting load and rifle" varies, but if I believed a 2 1/2" rifle was good, I'd just buy a Salvage and some factory ammo forever.

Why waste all your money on equipment, components and waste time if all you want is mediocre accuracy?

I got one. Works fine for seating.

Takes some practice trying to be consistent in pressure to neck size.

As far as I am aware, there isn't a public rifle range in my county. The last two gun clubs I belonged to had 100 yard ranges, period. And I live in the rural West. The club I belong to now is only open to non-members one day a week for a few hours. The only public range with 600 yard lanes is over three hours drive away.

We already decided most of us shoot the vast majority of our game animals under 300 yards, me included. So while I find the more esoteric shooting discussions interesting, I don't think they are helpful for the majority of handloading or potential handloading hunters

In my experience, if you review loading manuals, pertinent data from publications like "Handloader" and the good information on sites like this, it is easy to find a load for most caliber/rifle combinations that can be worked into accurate, powerful ammo pretty quickly. I typically shoot a few rounds at or near the starting load level, but I am interested in something near maximum, especially for elk hunting. So if pressures are OK, I start shooting for accuracy when two or three grains from maximum. If you know the rifle, you can tell whether the bullets are going where they should. In my experience, the loads the manuals say are good typically are good.

I sight in to keep my trajectory and line of sight close together over the ranges where I shoot most of my game. When I shoot out beyond 250 yards or so, which isn't often, I take the time to measure or estimate the range pretty precisely. The animal isn't moving more than slowly and I am looking for a good shooting position. I have time to raise the crosshairs. When I am shooting at an animal on the move (usually going away) at 150 yards or so, I want the bullet to impact near the crosshairs, not four or five inches away. I am shooting off my hind legs, so the group would not be small.

I am concerned about what the manuals do not tell us, such as temperature sensitivity of powders, the real world of lot to lot powder variations, or the degree to which some bullets generate higher pressure. I think handloaders, especially folks new to the hobby, can get into trouble with what they do not know.

When I go to rifle ranges a few weeks before hunting season and scan down the targets at a hundred yards with my spotting scope, I normally see more 2+ inch groups than -2 inch groups and the groups are often far away from where the shooter wants those bullets to be. These are the responsible hunters, the guys at the range to sight in before the season. I think handloading can improve that situation - better shooters, better hunters.

You're right, these groups are by hunters who are doing it right, sounds pretty typical from what I've observed.

Wonder how the "others" shoot...??

No doubt, working up loads and handloading is the way to appreciate what a rifle can do. I don't shoot at long range very often, just want to know that I can if the need arrises. I enjoy having that confidence, sitting in a stand.

I like being prepared...

DF

See if a search turns up dogzappers loading at the range setup. He was such that he was able to vary powder and bullet seating at the range. Just took sized and primed cases with him.

I did an article on that very subject maybe a decade ago for HANDLOADER, and usually did the same thing, sizing and priming cases before heading to the range.

The biggest difficulty I found was using a scale outdoors. Solved it by putting the scale on the dashboard of my pickup.

IIRC, DZs had a box with a hinged plexiglass lid on it.

Works like a champ!

Ah, now wait a minute. I didn't say 2.5 inch groups were all that one really needs or that they were all I ever strive for. Quite the contary. Using just three loads from 1-4 grains under the published maximum for the components used, has rarely resulted in at least one of them being in the 1.5 MOA range. And with decent, close to factory, velocity.
The question centered around the minimum method to get a reasonable hunting load while using the minimum powder and bullets.
I've have had no trouble deer hunting with ammo that only shot 2.5 MOA. I used that ammo instead of some much more accurate ammo I had loaded myself because I wanted to use a particular bullet that was only availiable in factory ammo. Otherwise, I use my handloads for hunting.
I've been using my handloaded big game ammo for over 50 yrs. now. It is very satisfing, can allow the use of superior bullets while saving one some money, and it can also allow one to use reduced loads for practice that are easier on the shooter. E

I would never feel confident in a load/rifle combo that shoots 2 1/2 MOA...

Unless I lived in KY where the shots would seldom be over 90 yards in the woods.

If 2 1/2 MOA was my goal, I'd shoot my PSE with 100 grain broadheads LOL!

I use the Audette Ladder Test method. It might not be the "best method" but it doesn't take a lot of components.

Here is the last Ladder test I've done.
[video:youtube]NH23UWHyvtY[/video]
I usually find a precision node within 6 shots.

Rick,

Here are the results from this am's higher node. The 7-shot ladder @ 660 yds using 39.6 gr to 40.8 gr of IMR 4007 SSC in .2 gr increments, loaded .005" off the lands.



I followed up with #'s 4, 6 and 7. Num 4 was very nice with a 4-shot group that went sub 1/2 moa and 2815 fps.



Also, #'s 6 which about 1 moa



And #7 which ran 3/4 moa and 2875 fps

I have used the ladder method for 3 rifles. Quickest way to find a good load i've ever used. 10shots has been the most. Pick a suitable[or available] powder almost any bullet and start shooting. A node will appear. I have twice picked the middle charge of a 3 shot node and just went with it.
Like Muledeer says it's handy that i can shoot 300yds. I shoot out shop the door where i reload, then drive up and record the shots. I am going to try the homade shoot and see.
At least the barrel stays cool while i go check the target.

Fred

Just this am, I could make out hits @ 950 yds with the home made shoot'N'see target with my zeiss spotter set to 45x.

Alan