Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Gunsmithing Correct way to iron/steam a dent out of a wood stock

I have a few stock dents on a Sako rifle that I would like to be able to remove. I know it is possible to iron/steam a dent out - or at least make it less noticable. Anyone ever done this, have a preferred technique, or have any advice on pitfalls? I certainly don't want to attempt if there is a possiblitiy of ruining the stock. Thanks.

I don't know what kind of a finish a Sako has. I have steamed dents from Remington, winchester, Savages 99s and 23s, and thompsoncenter walnut stocks. You have to put a piece of cloth that is sopping wet on the dent. I use cotton flannel from an old shirt. and then I have a piece of metal copper or steel that can hold some heat for a while about the size of the dent, hold the metal with vice grips and heat the metal with a propane until it will produce steam when put on the wet cloth. hold it on the cloth and press down on it until it stops steaming re wet the cloth and repeat until the dent is out. let it dry a day or so then apply some touch up finish. this works good on hand rubbed finish and truoil finishes. once you get some practices dent's will virtally dissapear. any one esle is encouraged by me to give their openion and or method they use I want to learn as much as I can also about other type finishes with dents...good luck.. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

As an alternative to using a piece of metal and a propane torch, try a regular clothes iron and set it on it's hottest steam setting. Then apply the iron to a piece of wet cloth placed over the dent. Less likely to scorch the stock as well.

Yup. I just use an old steam clothes iron, too.

Works great, IMHO

GTC

I used a wet cloth and clothes iron, It worked fine.

Jamie

plus 1 on the iron.

Joseph

I'm hard pressed to iron a shirt. (pun intended) Let alone a wood stock, you guys would probably flog me if you saw what my rifles looked like! Press on though gents, press on.

I don't like the iron because of the size. to me it covers too much area and damages way too much finish making it very hard to repair the finish. if you are refinishing the stock then it is ok. but if you have a 1/4 in dent that is all you have to re finish if you don't make it bigger. works for me.. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

Because the sako finish is usually a catalyzed lacquer (very thick and glossy) it can be tough to hide. The other problem is getting water to the wood if the dent did not break the surface.

I use a heat gun and a wet rag. An iron is too big and clumsy and heating a piece of metal is an unneeded extra step, IME. The only important part is getting enough water into the ding to wet it and drying it after.

These usually require drilling a tiny hole through the finish and wetting with a wet rag for an hour or so before heating. Heat will pop the surface back out to perfection.

If you try to get away without drilling the hole the wood will start to plump and the edges of the break will seal the off additonal water and the ding repair will be less than perfect.

After the dings are pumped out let the wood dry for at least a day... in a hot box would be best... and then seal the holes with superglue. Will take a few applications to fill the holes. A tiny touch of CA accelerator to start will make that easier, but do not overdo or the repair will turn white.

file carefully to level and wax the stock. Repairs will be mighty hard to see...

Sakos are not easy to fix compared to other flavors.
art

tiny means 1/16" or so...

I use a whistling kettle with the whistle ripped out. Just get it going good and hold the dent right over the hole, in the jet of steam. It's easier for me than the wet rag and soldering iron.

Thanks very much for the info. Fortunately, this Sako has an oil finish, not the deep laquer of the deluxe or some of the standard sporters. Getting moisture to the dents should not be a big deal, I just don't want to damage or discolor the original finish around the dent. Is it safe to assume that if done correctly the original finish around the dent should remain intact??

Live Oak
You are very lucky! That oil finish will be a snap to fix. Just apply a little water and heat it up with a heat gun. After allowing it to dry for at least a day after raising the dimple, rub a little oil on the spot, let sit for 10 minutes or so and wipe dry with a clean rag. SHould be nearly perfect.

ldorado
The whistling kettle is great for unfinished wood, but can cause bad blushing in many finishes. Some oils and most older varnishes will blush and complicate things greatly. If you must do it on finished wood apply a wet rag first and let some water seep into the wood and just hit it with steam as lightly as possible.
art