Home Forums Birds & Dogs Upland Game Browning Citori........20 gauge Steel Shot load and Chokes?

Hey guys,

I have a Browning Citori 20 gauge and hunt partridge in Maine. I am thinking of trying Steel Shot even though it will be used for upland/partridge hunting. I've heard and read you should use different size shot and chokes when using steel shot. Can you guys recommend a size steel shot load i should use on partridge with my 20 gauge as well as what size chokes i should be using.

Thanks!

The choke tubes from yr Citori should say right on the tubes whether steel shot can be used or they are for "lead shot only". In that case , don't. Early season pats will be shot up close or they'll be gone in the cover. Cylinder/SK1 are in my guns for early season.

And also I wouldn't shoot steel for anything unless it was required by law; its inferior to lead shot in all aspects.

NB

I use #6 lead and IC choke, but if your gonna shoot steal then go up a couple of sizes and open your choke some. So cylinder bore or skeet for you choke and #4s for your shot. A grouse is bigger than a teal and #4s kill plenty of teal for me. So patterns should be dense enuff. Pattern your gun to see but I'm confident this is a good starting place. good luck.

I've shot lots of pheasants, waterfowl and sage grouse with steel, and I don't find it inferior to lead in every respect. Fasteel by Kent has been fast enough it pulverized birds unless I let them get farther away, and the lead is less because the speed is faster. I find number 4 shot with an improved cylinder choke works well, but agree a skeet or cylinder choke might be better for ruffed grouse with number 6 steel.

Might I ask why you would even consider using steel shot when not required by law?

I wouldn't, but it is required in WY on the Game and Fish units I hunt, and on federal waterfowl refuges when hunting pheasants. I don't use it for quail in AZ, or for blue, ruffed, or sage grouse in WY. But, I have never felt it is as worthless as the steel haters claim, and do not intend to pay the high prices of tungsten or hevi-shot. I have killed a couple hundred pheasants with steel, and dead is dead, whether with steel or lead. I simply do not take long shots, and within 35 yards with my 20 gauge it is acceptable. I have a choice - I can stay home or use steel for pheasants in WY. The question was what would I use for upland birds at close range, not whether I would prefer it.

Should have replied to the OP's post instead of yours, that was who I intended to ask. It sounds like he is just wanting to try steel as an alternative to lead when not required. No idea why anyone would do that. I guess I'm lucky, in that, I don't need to hunt USFWS land for pheasants. I tried it a couple of times years ago and found using steel on pheasants to be very frustrating.