Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Ask The Gunwriters Break Free vs. Rem Oil vs?

Another way is to just use a brush, like a shaving brush. Apply a couple of drops of oil to the brush for a very light coat, several more for a heavier coat.

I use Butch's or MT Extreme for cleaning and Triflow for lubrication. I like it better than CLP.

Wipe out is great and it does remove copper, but not all. I've ran Sweet's, Bore Tech Eliminator and Montana's Copper Killer after it and got more out. Eliminator is great stuff and doesn't smell either. I'll have to take a look at Gun Shield as well, their bore coat works great so I'd expect the same.

In my bolt guns I usually use, wipeout or the gunslick version there of to clean the bore, I often will give the bore a go over with hoppes on patch with some nylon brushing, then a patch or two to get rid of powder fouling first before using the wipeout

For lube I use a white lithum grease on the lugs and cocking piece.

I use BWC barricade as a rust preventative both in the bore and exterior surfaces.

For general cleaning I use a couple of things, gunscrubber, simple green and hot water, or Breakfree depending on circumstances.

In the field, I don't usually do much but carry something to clear the bore and a small amount of breakfree.

I use Rem Oil and it has served me well but then I am one to wipe down my rifle each evening during a hunt, even my stainless models. Wipeout works best by far of any of the copper removing techniques.

I also use Tetra Gun grease on rails and such. A light coat and one wipe off pass. Rails seasoned with teflon are a beautiful thing.

A few years ago, my oldest son had to do a science experiment. He/we chose to do a side by side comparison of the commonly available rust inhibitors/oils on the market. We used Ballistol, Break-Free, EEzox, WD-40, Rem Oil, Corrison X and about a dozen other things. We treated 1095 carbon steel razor blades and placed them into a 16 well tray, each in a separate well. Each treatment was replicated 4 times. They were then covered and buried at a salt lake for 2 months (extremely moist and salty). At the end of 2 months, we dug them up and evaluated them for surface rust and/or pitting. We did this twice in 2 years. EEzox and Break-free are the only two chemicals that actually worked to prevent rust. EEzox being the winner over Break-Free, but the others failed miserably. They are the only two I will use for rust prevention.

John,

Is the Gun Shield okay for trigger parts. I don't oil my triggers at all, but I'm wondering if this would be okay since it wont attract gunk. I would assume you would not coat the sear.

Eezox for rust and Boretech Eliminator for copper fouling!

Eliminator isn't even in the same universe as Wipeout or Montana Extreme when it comes to copper removal.

Jorge have you tried Eliminator?

While I have never used wipeout I have used Montana extreme and Eliminator easily beats it!

If you like Eliminator for copper, try BoreTech's Cu+2 Copper Remover, it really eats copper!

I use Eliminator for general bore cleaning and Cu+2 for copper "problems". Breakfree CLP for lube and Breakfree for Storage for rust preventive.

405wcf

Bore Tech Eliminator for me.. tons of other stuff just sits these days


if you have a severely fouled bore then BoreTech's Cu+2.

Eezox for rust prevention..

Another Bore Tech eliminator fan here....kroil first with a bronze brush for carbon, then I hit it with the Bore Tech.

Don't use a bronze brush with the Bore Tech, you won't have a brush left if you do...

I lube with Tetra, G96, Rem Oil or One Shot Dry Lube (dry lube stuff)...OS works good on triggers, as it is a dry lube.

Tony

I've always used Shooters Choice Bore Cleaner for copper fouling, on all my rifles. I also like the Hoppes Elite for cleaning powder & carbon fouling off of my handguns.
I've used Rem Oil a lot of years for Lube & Rust prevention, & I've never been impressed with it. But, of course, I wipe down all my guns before they go back in the safe, when I come in for hunting or shooting.

I've been using Ballistoil for lubrication on all moving parts, lately, and have been very pleased.

Every one hear keeps mentioning Wipe Out, as a bore cleaner? Is that the rand name or just the product name ???? I've seen different brands at the LGS that are marked Wipeout, but I don't know which product to buy.

Sharp-Shoot-R is the brand. But "Wipeout" has become a range of products. Most people are referring to Wipeout Foaming Bore Cleaner.

Question for the BoreTech users.

Most who use their products use Eliminator and seem to really like it. BoreTech also makes a "C4 Carbon Remover" and a "Cu+2 Copper Remover". How do these products compare to Eliminator? Is Eliminator the inbetweener, designed for both Carbon and Copper? Is the "C4 Carbon Remover" better at removing carbon deposits and the "Cu+2 Copper Remover" better at removing stubborn copper?

Thanks.

I have traditionally used Breakfree CLP for most cleaning, lube, and storage. Recently, I've been using Balistol more. It seems to do a good job, but more importantly is non-toxic and non-carcinogenic.

With all of the nasty chemicals that I've exposed myself to over the years, I figure it's time to watch what I'm exposing myself to more carefully. I also recently had a good friend (and fellow gun nut) die much too young from cancer. He would spend many hours cleaning guns, and refinishing stocks and metal finishes. I remember walking into his workroom one day and almost falling over from the fumes. He didn't notice them. I can't help but think that this kind of exposure over many years didn't help him. Just saying.....

Rem Oil thickens and gums over time. Never use it inside an action of any kind.

CLP not only thickens, but hardens into a solid. Nasty stuff.

I use Birchwood Casey 100% synthetic gun oil as a lubricant and rust preventative. Only use a very thin coat inside. Never drip or squirt it in an action as that is too much, and too much of any oil causes problems over time. Barely moisten a rag and rub it on.

In freezing temperatures, guns should be run dry inside. Only use powdered graphite for lubricant.

If worried about rust on a rough hunt, get a stainless rifle with synthetic stock. They're butt ugly but they work.

Would you share your experience with CLP hardening into a solid? Were you using the aerosol or straight oil from a bottle? I have had issues with Rem oil gumming, but have never had any issues with CLP.

The CLP that I have was made under military contract in the early eighties and has not thickened, jelled, or hardened, it also does not dry out on my firearms, a couple of which have been sitting in safe storage for over ten years.

Fancy sharing your experience with the rest of us.