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Ed_T Online Content OP
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I finished up my latest knife and sheath today.
The knife is a bushcraft style knife made of L6 carbon steel with finger grooves and an orange G1 handle. The sheath is orange Kydex and has a sheath with a Lite My Fire 2.0 fire steel attached with Chicago screws.


[Linked Image]


[Linked Image]

It is set up for use as a neck sheath and can be hung either up or down.

The orange handle is to me important as I almost lost a knife I had made with a box-elder on this year's elk as it blended into the grass.

The fire steel sheath grabs part of the fire-steel handle so it has good tension even when it wears.


Ed T

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Nice setup Ed. Is the knife held in place with just friction or does it "click in" somehow?
Tim

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Thanks Tim. It is actually both. The friction where part of the handle goes into the Kydex clicks into place. Same with the Fire steel.


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Is that a Scout or Army Firesteel?

I occurs to me, that knife is smaller than I think.


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Scout.

The knife has a 4.25" blade and is 8.25 overall.


Ed T

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Looks like you are pretty good making the sheaths out of Kydex.

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Originally Posted by AB2506
Looks like you are pretty good making the sheaths out of Kydex.


Very cool. Nice job. L6 will cut as good as any steel out there.....

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I'm not a believer in the "super steels" as I don't carry a bench grinder in my backpack very often smile


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Ed_T Online Content OP
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That's the nice thing with L6, takes a razor edge, holds it well and yet can be touched up int the field easily.


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You'd sell more of them if you made them out of steel you can't sharpen, and had Genuine Mastadon Ass Bone handles.


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Nice work Ed, I really like Yellow G10 for the reason you state... quit it due to the glass fibers released when shaping though (G10 is an epoxy based glass mat), a respirator is only a start as it gets on my clothes and skin and a simple washing doesn't remove it, probably need a dust collection system to handle it. Also it's heavier than other options, which doesn't matter much on a belt knife, but dangling off your neck it begins to tell.

Jerry


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Originally Posted by DanAdair
You'd sell more of them if you made them out of steel you can't sharpen, and had Genuine Mastadon Ass Bone handles.


Dan,

Here is about as close as I can get to Genuine Mastodon Ass Bone:
http://www.knifemaking.com/product-p/mw4018.htm

I'm making you a set of 4 knives with it as soon as you send me payment for the handles smile


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Great looking user knife, I lost more then one knife because it blended in the leaves/grass so I appreciate the Orange.

Last edited by NYStillHunter; 12/10/13.
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Originally Posted by Ed_T
Originally Posted by DanAdair
You'd sell more of them if you made them out of steel you can't sharpen, and had Genuine Mastadon Ass Bone handles.


Dan,

Here is about as close as I can get to Genuine Mastodon Ass Bone:
http://www.knifemaking.com/product-p/mw4018.htm

I'm making you a set of 4 knives with it as soon as you send me payment for the handles smile


Brilliant.... That appears to be even more expensive and worthless laugh


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"...I lost more then one knife because it blended in the leaves/grass so I appreciate the Orange."

Yeah, I don't get black flashlights and camo hunting gear... (knives, gps's, radios etc.), to me it seems like a really bad idea and yet it can be hard to find some gear that is not colored or camo'd so!

Jerry

Last edited by jerrywoodswalker; 12/11/13.

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Ed T I have not used kydex much but I have heard that it will scuff and scratch a blade surface. I have wanted to make one for my bark river knife but I don't want to scratch it all up that the problem with spendy knives. Have you seen this or is it a myth?

Nice job on the knife!!!!!!

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I'm not Ed (by a long shot!) but for a knife you are planning to pound through a piece of wood with a stick, I wouldn't sweat a kydex sheath.

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Would not have thought a plastic sheath to be this hard!


From Wiki:
relatively hard thermoplastic, with a hardness of 90 on the Rockwell R scale. This hardness, combined with a grained surface, increases its abrasive resistance.


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Originally Posted by gwl
Ed T I have not used kydex much but I have heard that it will scuff and scratch a blade surface. I have wanted to make one for my bark river knife but I don't want to scratch it all up that the problem with spendy knives. Have you seen this or is it a myth?

Nice job on the knife!!!!!!


I have never seen a problem, but I generally don't finish a knife to a mirror finish. I do know that you need to blow any grit out of the sheath that gets inside from finishing on a belt sander. A lot of that can be overcome but using a wet belt. Also if it is properly pressed there shouldn't be much edge contact


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cwh2
Good point. It was just something I heard or read and did not know if it were ture I guess the info from ironbender may support the idea

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