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Joined: Mar 2006
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The best snake oil all depends on why the engine is seized.

If it was rust ... or if it's carbon deposits ... or if it's a combination of both.

The best snake oil will dissolve carbon and rust/corrosion.

GB1

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WD-40 works fine...for many things. Some folks just believe anything they hear....idiots..


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919th Special Operations Wing 1983-1985 1993-1994

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Originally Posted by Joel/AK
Another good rust breaker is mouse milk. can be spendy also but it works.


How do you get them to stand still in the milk barn?

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It takes more patience than talent let me tell you. Little buggers are quick

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Start it and let it run - what have you got to lose?


It takes a village to raise an idiot.
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Originally Posted by Swampman700
WD-40 works fine...for many things. Some folks just believe anything they hear....idiots..



Fak! Who let the retard off the bus?


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I used Kroil in my 1924 Fordson. Motor was stuck as heck when I found it. Been running great for 15 years or more, now.

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I've got all winter for it to soak. Good thought on turning it over a bit before starting it. Pretty sure that the reason for being stuck is corrosion. Could probably turn it over with a 3/8 drill with the plug out. If I got something bigger, I could probably turn it with the plug in and pull seafoam through the carb. The gas tank appears to be empty, so I'm hoping they ran it dry. Probably mix ATF with the kerosene.


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I need ether to get it started the first few times. It ran ok wide open, but idled rough. And it needed to be choked. After I ran some seafoam through it, it's been idling smooth, but still needs the choke out, so I suppose some tweaking on the jets is in order. Probably explains why it starts so hard cold. I'm actually impressed with the compression that it has after over 30 years. It's lost some power, but it will still get away from you if it gets into the sod.


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Good to hear. I would bet you could take that carb apart and find some sort of trash in the jets or idle circuit.



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Originally Posted by bucktail
I need ether to get it started the first few times. It ran ok wide open, but idled rough. And it needed to be choked. After I ran some seafoam through it, it's been idling smooth, but still needs the choke out, so I suppose some tweaking on the jets is in order. Probably explains why it starts so hard cold. I'm actually impressed with the compression that it has after over 30 years. It's lost some power, but it will still get away from you if it gets into the sod.


If it needs the choke to run it's got a vacuum leak. Too much air = more fuel and that's what the choke does.


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That's worth a look. Not too many places for a vacuum leak on a small engine. Probably just shoot some ether on it and see if I can hear a difference.


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Originally Posted by fish head
I had a 1970ish Johnson


Thought you were older than that Fish. laugh


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Originally Posted by 284LUVR
Originally Posted by fish head
I had a 1970ish Johnson


Thought you were older than that Fish. laugh


Whoa. Where did that come from?

If I owned and operated a 1970ish Johnson ...

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Originally Posted by stxhunter
transmission fluid


I mix a cap full of Seafoam in each tank of gas on my mowers.. and each gallon of gas for them, get 2.5 ounces of ATF tossed in there...

it has ended ANY Fuel/Ethanol problems big time...

as a side note, I saw a mower engine for sale at Harbor Freight, that is either a carbon copy of a Honda Motor, or Honda is having them made in China... at Harbor Freight the mower motor was $104. they also had smaller motors with a output drive shaft, something should fit a tiller...

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The no name chinee brand is a clone.

TIFWIW.

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I picked up one of those engines at a neighbor's yard sale for $30 NIB. I had planned on putting it on this tiller, and still might, but mods will need to be made. On the original engine, the jug is upright, it's a flathead, and the piston goes straight up and down. The Chinese knockoff copies a more modern honda engine with overhead valves and the jug sits at an angle, tilted back towards the tiller. As a result, that engine needs to sit about 2" further forward than the stock engine. I'd need longer belts, I suspect that the belt clutch geometry would need to be modified, and there's a plate that bolts to the front of the engine and the transmission that would need to be fabbed.


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