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Originally Posted by fish head
Here's the online calculator for Dodge trucks.

http://www.dodge.com/towing/D/vehicle_to_weight.jsp

Hope this helps. smile


Unfortunately, that calculator does not show the old quad cab as it was discontinued. I have the original Dodge brochure for 1998. It shows 16,000 GCVWR for a 3:55 rear end , 4 wd and 20,000 for a 4:10 rear end. So the entire drive train would actually be rated for the greater as all they do is change out the differential gears, not axles, springs, drive shaft, clutch, etc. About all that happens is you need to pull in a lower gear on climbs. I also have an engine compression brake, so my braking power is adequate.

Relooking at that calculator, it does go down to 2002 and shows a maximum trailer tow weight of 14,700, I am way below that. Loaded,my trailer should be about 7500 lbs and probably more like 6500. Add a 1500 lb camper and I am still only at 9,000 lbs and my receiver hitch is Class IV, 10,000 lbs capacity when used with a weight distributing system

Pal said "This is not good thinking, intentionally rationalizing overloading beyond the manufacturer's maximum rating. Upgrade whatever makes sense for the safety of your passengers and yourself. "

So with the above information and the trucks rating, I am not intentionally rationalizing any over loading. I think I am good, but wanted other eyes on it to see if my figures are accurate.

Last edited by saddlesore; 12/27/13.

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Originally Posted by sdgunslinger
saddlesore take a look at a set of Timbrens.....very simple and will take care of any rear end sag and sway

as far as a weight distributing hitch , I dunno , I have pulled some beastly loads without one but I am not running in mountains


I put Timbrens on my '11 F250 as it sagged with almost any load; both a 7K loaded bumper-pull horse trailer, or a steel 6-horse gooseneck at a weighed GCW of 23K.

The Timbrens helped, but under the gooseneck, they get completely compressed. I'mm probably going to put bags under this truck.



Vince- FWIW, I think you can put bags under your truck and just go anywhere with those weights.

One of the specific Dodge Truck Forums might be the best place to get good answers.


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You have the drive train to pull that load and the braking to stop it.

Bags will level the load to manage stability and steering.

IMO.


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Originally Posted by ironbender
You have the drive train to pull that load and the braking to stop it.

Bags will level the load to manage stability and steering.

IMO.


Thanks, I'll probably end up putting a the weight distribution hitch on it along with inflatable bags that would give me some variation for different loads.


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Originally Posted by ironbender
Originally Posted by sdgunslinger
saddlesore take a look at a set of Timbrens.....very simple and will take care of any rear end sag and sway

as far as a weight distributing hitch , I dunno , I have pulled some beastly loads without one but I am not running in mountains


I put Timbrens on my '11 F250 as it sagged with almost any load; both a 7K loaded bumper-pull horse trailer, or a steel 6-horse gooseneck at a weighed GCW of 23K.

The Timbrens helped, but under the gooseneck, they get completely compressed. I'mm probably going to put bags under this truck.



Vince- FWIW, I think you can put bags under your truck and just go anywhere with those weights.

One of the specific Dodge Truck Forums might be the best place to get good answers.




there could be different weight ratings for differing sets of Timbrens I suppose......my 97 Dodge 2500 sagged pretty good with a gooseneck full of cattle as it came stock......went with some Timbrens and it now runs nice and level and feels more stable ......this with loads on the gooseneck 12 to 16000 or so

also run a slide in sprayer on the back of that pickup in the summer months...1000 lbs or a little more for the sprayer and 300 gallons of water....pickup sets nice and level

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I put the inflation valve stems just under my tailgate so I can pump them up without crawling under the truck. Mine only require 5lbs when I load up so I just left them there all the time.

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Originally Posted by saddlesore
Originally Posted by ironbender
You have the drive train to pull that load and the braking to stop it.

Bags will level the load to manage stability and steering.

IMO.


Thanks, I'll probably end up putting a the weight distribution hitch on it along with inflatable bags that would give me some variation for different loads.


If you go with airbags that will relieve the load/stress that's put on the weight distributing hitch ... provided the airbags hold air. smile

This goes back to your original question about figuring cargo load, tongue weight, and the requirement for a higher capacity weight distributing hitch.

Even if you're not towing airbags reduce body roll and level the load with a camper. I have no experience towing extremely heavy loads but airbags and WD hitch is the way I'd go.

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My setup is an '08 Dodge 2500, quad cab, long bed, 6.7 diesel, 6-spd manual. I haven't weighed my stock rack but with 4 llamas, I estimate 15 to 1600lb. My camp trailer is a 70's 20' so it's heavy compared to newer ones although I haven't weighed it. The water tank is in the front so that adds to the tongue weight. I don't use an equalizer hitch.
Fully loaded, the bed sags maybe 6" at the hitch and the trailer will sway a little but not much. The stock rack is high so I get quite a bit of sway, especially when all the llamas are standing up and moving around. It's not as bad when several lie down as they usually do. Also, when hunting away from gas stations, I put a 15gal barrel of fuel in a front corner of the bed where I can siphon it into the tank. I inflate the airbags with about 60lb which brings up the rear to normal height. It eliminates most of the sway from both the stock rack and the trailer.


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Here's a good question ...

Is there any downsides to airbags and a WD hitch?


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I haven't found any yet.


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Originally Posted by fish head
Here's a good question ...

Is there any downsides to airbags and a WD hitch?



I haven't read of any and that is the way I am going to go.Probably wait until spring though.
I plan to put the equalizer on first, load the camper ,check it, hook up the trailer check it and then load the trailer. Then decide on what air bags I want. I will probably buy the equalizer hitch with the anti sway in it.

Right now I am busy trying to make trip up in the NW part of Colorado to buy a mule. Weather is not cooperating.

Thanks guys. All the info is greatly appreciated.


Vince

Last edited by saddlesore; 12/29/13.

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Originally Posted by Spotshooter
I put the inflation valve stems just under my tailgate so I can pump them up without crawling under the truck. Mine only require 5lbs when I load up so I just left them there all the time.


Onboard compressor with the switches in the cab.


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Have you looked at the Timbrens with a heavy load?

My understanding is that they are designed for year/make/model, but not a heavy vs light load in that category.

Mine level out the load and I suppose they are expected to compress the way they do. They are just bump stops +P. smile


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Originally Posted by ironbender
Originally Posted by Spotshooter
I put the inflation valve stems just under my tailgate so I can pump them up without crawling under the truck. Mine only require 5lbs when I load up so I just left them there all the time.


Onboard compressor with the switches in the cab.


No. I would just run the lines to the back of the truck. This isn't something I would use every day. Actually very infrequently. I only need them during hunting season and maybe a few summer trips.

I looked at the Timbrens, but 90% of the time, my truck will be empty, or just pulling the horse trailer with a mule or two in it. So I don't want that harder ride all the time.. They are about 1/2 the price of inflatable air bags.

Last edited by saddlesore; 12/30/13.

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Both Tembrens and air bags have their advantages. Tembrens never have to be adjusted. Put them on and forget them. Airbags need to be inflated to match the load but that's what they do - match the load. You can drop them to 5 lb for light loads or run them clear up to 100lb for hauling your wife's pet elephant.


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ironbender.......no I guess I have not looked at the Timbrens when loaded up , but there must be travel left as the loaded truck does not ride rough , considering the stuff I haul


The timbren co. will tell you the truck should not ride rougher unloaded .....there should be a couple of inches clearance before an unloaded truck engages the timbrens

I think they're about like overload springs and a light load or hitting a big pothole can cause some rougher running , but I'll live with that for the simplicity and ruggedness they offer

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Originally Posted by sdgunslinger
ironbender.......no I guess I have not looked at the Timbrens when loaded up , but there must be travel left as the loaded truck does not ride rough , considering the stuff I haul


The timbren co. will tell you the truck should not ride rougher unloaded .....there should be a couple of inches clearance before an unloaded truck engages the timbrens

I think they're about like overload springs and a light load or hitting a big pothole can cause some rougher running , but I'll live with that for the simplicity and ruggedness they offer

That's the advantage Timbrens are supposed to have - they on't ater the empty ride. The exception is frost heaves on our highways!

I've been told that one needs to keep 10# or more in the bags when empty as they are subject to cold cracking if too low.


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Quote
I've been told that one needs to keep 10# or more in the bags when empty as they are subject to cold cracking if too low.
The directions on my air bags says to keep them at a min of 10lb but doesn't say why. 10 lb will keep the rear bumper raised maybe 1".


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There ya go! Gotta love a little rake!


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You'll see improved mileage too, cause you'll always be going downhill.

Its science.

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