Couple years ago I got a Ruger 77/22 mag and threw on a $69 Tasco 6-24X (Mag IV?)I kept as a dedicated stopgap scope. Got tired of not being able to make out targets at 50 yards in the shade in the middle of the day.
I have some pretty good glass on all my other rifles and decided last year I need a dedicated scope for this one. Quite a few years ago, I had acquired a used Simmons WTC with a used rifle. Seemed like a very bright, decent, economical scope for the money, but getting it zeroed was a nightmare as the adjustments were all over the map. I chalked it up to possibly being abused before I got it and long ago sold it.
Anyway, having no illusions of grandeur, a year or so ago I took the plunge and bought a new $99 Simmons Whitetail Classic 6.5-20X50mm. I was disappointed that they apparently don't come with the "Pebble Granite Finish" anymore. Shortly after removing the new scope from the box, the parallax adjustment ring fell off. Looks like some epoxy let loose. No biggie.
I'd had a Tasco Titan scope many years ago with a "lifetime warranty" that got ridiculous in my paying both a fee and postage both ways to have it repaired/replaced (twice), so I'm not even going to entertain that thought. Instead I'm merely looking at it as an inexpensive learning experience and a fun experiment. If it works, great. If not, oh well.
With that said, I have
two questions:
1.) Looks like it will be a simple job to glue it back on, what epoxy/compound would you suggest? (Aluminum to aluminum.)
AND 2.) Twisting the parallax adjustment from lock to lock, there is a little wriggle room on how far left or right I can affix the ring relative to the index pointer. Now, bearing in mind that I'll probably never shoot much over 100 yards anyway, and probably at nothing more dangerous than a rabid skunk
... IF you HAD to choose one or the other, and assuming the spacing of the lines on the parallax ring were accurate to start with, would it be more accurate to zero the parallax ring and pointer to correspond at 30 feet, or 300 yards?
I'll probably end up checking it both ways, but I noticed the index lines are spaced closer together at the high end of the adjustment range (near infinity), and further apart at the close distances (like 30'), so I'm thinking it would be more accurate at the close end. Thoughts?