Home Forums Gear Hunting Trucks and Four-Wheel Drives Fuel Filter Leaking...

My new (used) truck has a leaking fuel filter. I knew I smelled it, but am sort of immune after 20+ years of working with the stuff (either JetA or boat diesel) and it didn't really register. Then the wife complained about the smell after we went for a ride.

Sure enough, I popped the hood with the engine running, and the filter was dripping fairly good. It rarely drips when not under pressure (engine off.)

This filter is located on a bracket, suspended over the passenger side valve cover. The fuel leaks onto the cover, and on down to the exhaust manifold. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />

It looks like your basic boat fuel filter, which means I think I just unscrew the filter assy from the filter head, remove from engine compartment, remove lower filter bowl from filter cartridge and install onto new filter, reinstall new filter assy back on filter head.

Sound about right? Any tricks I'm missing?

Nope you pretty much got it. Lube up the filter gasket/o-ring with deisel and screw it on just like an oil filter. There are two kinds of fuel filters, one has a water separator on the bottom of it with a screw and is really prone to getting particles stuck in it and not shutting all the way. At least mine was. I cleaned mine it out with alcohol and it was good for another 50k. Recently it started leaking again so I switched it out for the filter that doesnt have the water separator on the bottom.

You might fill up the filter with deisel before you put it back on, your rig will start much easier.

Thanks Sean!

Interestingly enough, the truck doesn't start well in the mornings. Now I'm thinking the fuel filter maybe getting low during the night and causing that problem.

BW i think you are right, the filter leaking off fuel pressure and possiblky leaking air will make it a bitch to start. new filter is as above and should fix the problem

About every two years mine starts starting slow in the morning in the winter time. Most of the time the starter, batteries, or both need to be replaced and its starts real quick then. Slow starting could be a lot of things , glow plugs or controller, but most of the time I think its batteries and/ or starters. Two years on aftermarket/rebuilt stuff is all Dad and I get on our deisels <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> Buy the lifetime warranty stuff if you can.

Anyway, just an idea.

Changed it, no leaks now. The schrader valve mechanism is weak at best. I can easily see how a some dirt could get in there and unseat the thing and cause a leak.

What's the purpose of the schrader valve? (I hesitate to call it that, as the schrader valves on aircraft are of much higher quality.)

I did refill the filter, as best I could, but it still took some cranking to get the truck started. I knew it would when I took off the filter. I could here a 'gurgle' noise as air got into the rest of the system.

I'm not familiar with the Ford 7.3 s , but there should be a hand pump or something to prime the fuel system with . Anytime you open up the system ........ change a filter , replace a line ,etc. you will need to bleed the air from the system . Some engines will even be reluctant to start until you crack open a couple of injector lines so the air will bleed off of those......

Didn't notice a hand operated prime pump on this engine, but I know what your talking about. Had one on my old boat.

When I turn the key in the morning, I can hear some sort of pump kicking in, and the voltage guage needle jumps a bit too. After it quits, I start the engine. Doesn't seem to happen during the rest of the day.

Sure glad I didn't need to bleed thru the injectors.

The voltage gage needle jump is the glow plug controller kicking on/off I think. I actually had the fuel filter changed in the shop last time, since they were replacing the belt tensioner assembly. It is always a mistake letting mechanics work on my rig. Fuel was leaking from the drivers side front injector. BAD. I think they bled the air out of the lines through the injector line. Funny, Ive ran it out of fuel and never had to crack a line to get it started again. Anyway, a couple of 22 cent o-rings from brattain and I was back in business. Bet the shop would have charged me big bucks for that even though it was their fault. How mechanics let stuff like that out the door i will never know, but this stuff happens to me over half the time I have anything done by a mechanic shop...