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KYFRED Offline OP
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I have a dilemma and need some direction. We have a large aluminum deck boat. pretty much a 22 ft flat bottom boat. We have a small, but large enough, hole along a seam at the bow that started leaking. I can epoxy for a short term fix, but how would you guys recommend a long term fix? I was thinking about a new seem weld as a possibility. Repair from inside the boat, or even a new bow protector. I will be looking for a good boat repair location and want to have ideas going in.

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Originally Posted by KYFRED
I have a dilemma and need some direction. We have a large aluminum deck boat. pretty much a 22 ft flat bottom boat. We have a small, but large enough, hole along a seam at the bow that started leaking. I can epoxy for a short term fix, but how would you guys recommend a long term fix? I was thinking about a new seem weld as a possibility. Repair from inside the boat, or even a new bow protector. I will be looking for a good boat repair location and want to have ideas going in.

How old is it? some hulls have a long warranty

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The only permanent repair for cracks in in aluminium is to have it welded.

And ... what chris c said.

If I had to have it welded I'd look for a welding shop that welds aluminium instead of boat repair shop. Generally speaking, boat shops charge premium prices for their work.

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It is a 99. I will check, but I am not original owner. good thought
.



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Flatten the hole. Place a rubber patch over the hole. Rivet a piece of aluminum over the hole clamping the patch and it should be good forever.

Last edited by MILES58; 07/06/14.
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I'd look for a WELDING (not boat repair) shop equipped with newer multi process gear.

Tell the operator you're interested in having the repair done either with an advanced Pulsed MIG, or by a good TIG hand running a decent pulsed square wave unit.

Let HIM decide which process is more appropriate.

Sounds like a very straightforward repair,....some PICS would sure give one a beetr feel for the job though.

Luck

GTC


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Originally Posted by fish head
The only permanent repair for cracks in in aluminium is to have it welded.

And ... what chris c said.

If I had to have it welded I'd look for a welding shop that welds aluminium instead of boat repair shop. Generally speaking, boat shops charge premium prices for their work.


Your on track,....kinda'

The rubber gasket and some savvy riveting ARE a damn good (and maybe more desirable) repair, too.

Welding CHANGES the mechanical properties of aluminum, and each additional successive pass can further atrit the original mechanical properties of the material.

Wish the thing was sitting in my shop, it's one of the things I doo here.....aircraft parts / pieces, too.

GTC


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Originally Posted by crossfireoops
Originally Posted by fish head
The only permanent repair for cracks in in aluminium is to have it welded.

And ... what chris c said.

If I had to have it welded I'd look for a welding shop that welds aluminium instead of boat repair shop. Generally speaking, boat shops charge premium prices for their work.


Your on track,....kinda'

The rubber gasket and some savvy riveting ARE a damn good (and maybe more desirable) repair, too.

Welding CHANGES the mechanical properties of aluminum, and each additional successive pass can further atrit the original mechanical properties of the material.

Wish the thing was sitting in my shop, it's one of the things I doo here.....aircraft parts / pieces, too.

GTC


I agree with all ^^^ of that. I shouldn't have said only permanent repair. I used to work on airplane parts too. smile





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One thing few (if any) of us older farts have explored as applicable for this sorta situation are the new Automotive 'Panel Adhesives',.....there may well be something there.

Hell they're gluing JETS together, why not boats ?

Devcon "Flexane", properly applied to a properly prepped surface is one that I kinda' developed for repairing those big "possum belly" bulk trailers,.....albeit black and icky lookin'

GTC


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I'd take it to my buddies fab shop some night. They specialize in food grade stainless work, but do some aluminum work. The next morning I'd pick it up and they'd likely have it gassed up, and re-packed the wheel bearings on the trailer as well.

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an aluminum patch riveted on with silicon in between may not be permanent ,but none have failed yet,and it's been over 20 years now.

Last edited by fluffy; 07/06/14.

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My concern it really the location. It is about 5 inches above the reinforced keel. The seam appears to have been glued and reinforced from the front of the bow to the stern. It may be welded on the interior, I cannot see that area of the hull. I don't think the location will allow for a patch per se, it is the dead center seam on the bottom. I will start calling around tomorrow. Got a buddy with a fabrication shop that may be able to help. I appreciate your input and ideas.

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You might try this for brazing aluminum

http://www.durafix.com/


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A couple of thoughts ...... if there is a gasket or sealant material involved in the area of the problem, welding or other heat might easily cause more/additional problems. The same may be true if you cannot access the back side/inside as that area could be filled with flotation material (foam). While I agree that I'd rather have a reputable metal smith do the actual work, it might be better to have a boat builder, ideally someone who is or deals with the manufacturer of said boat look into it. Then again, a lot of reputable metal "technicians" will recognize the issues involved and work with them as needed.


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Double post

Last edited by MallardAddict; 07/06/14.
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Can't flip the boat. It is 22X8, has seating for 8 and a 150 motor. It is a deck boat, pleasure boat with an aluminum hull. I can take it on rivers and also fish from it, but primarily it is a family fun boat.

I think I will start at the Marinas and see who they send their work to and keep going from there. I also plan to call manufacturer and see what they are recommending.

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Can you get enough buddies to push the boat off the trailer and roll it over?

If so and the crack hasn't opened too wide I would take a page out of the steelheaders guide and coat the bottom with gluv-it.

It is a super thick epoxy with graphite for sealing cracks and coating drift boat bottoms. The graphite helps the coating not to "stick" to rocks that get struck in the river. Its standard fare here in the Pacific Northwest on river boats. Probably around $200 to do and 1-2 days

Prep is simple, bring off the old paint to bare aluminum with a 60 grit flap wheel, wipe with acetone, mask off the boat sides and apply.

I have it on both of my duck boats and I beat the shcitt out of them without issue 1 for the past 5 years.

Here is a pic of my 14' boat with it applied:

[Linked Image]

Painted:
[Linked Image]

Painted:

[Linked Image]

And an article on the process
http://steelheaduniversity.com/gluvit.htm



Last edited by MallardAddict; 07/06/14.

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