Home Forums Reloading Big Game Rifles New to rolling my own and need some pointers

After years of putting it off I just ordered a Hornady Lock N Load Classic reloading kit. My first course of action once it arrives will be to study the manual so I can get a clue on how all of this works. While I await its arrival I want to start assembling some components since they are understandably hard to come by. What powders can I look for that I can use in multiple cartridges I intend to load: 22-250, 243, 25-06, 270, 270 WSM & 30-06 so I'd like to try some powders that I can load for more than one cartridge. What are the preferred dies since I am mainly focused on developing some good accurate hunting loads? Any and all advice is greatly appreciated.

Stros

H or I 4350 or 4895 is going to take care of a lot of your needs.

No experience on the WSM, but I've used one or more of the 4 mentioned powders for the 243, 25-06, 270, and 30-06 at different times.

Add H380 for the 22.250 to RWE's list and you are covered.

For everything you mentioned after the 22-250, H4350 or IMR4350 would do quite well.

A mid range extruded powder like H4895, Varget, RL15, IMR4895, or IMR4064 would be great in the 22-250, and would also do very well in 243 and 30-06 with bullets on the lighter end of the spectrum.

The older extruded IMR4895 and IMR4064 powders are more flexible for use in less than full power loads.

Shorter powder kernels go more smoothly through a powder measure.

Considering all these things, I suggest starting with H4350 and IMR4895.

Another vote for H-4350. It's almost like magic dust, works so well in so many different cartridges. You'll need some primers, I prefer Fed 210's, but CCI 200's are also fine.

I prefer Redding dies, but have used dies from pretty much every maker and have been able to develop accurate ammunition from all of them.

Those would be very good bets.

Yes to all the above. Especially to studying the loading manual when it comes in.

For rifle loading dies I prefer the RCBS brand. I have been handloading since 1953 and have two RCBS presses along with others.

http://www.rcbs.com/guide/

The redding FL dies don't have an air bleed hole like the RCBS do and are more likely to dent FL sized rifle brass.

Powder gets used up so don't worry about a pound or two. As suggested H4350 SC is excellent. A faster powder such as the mentioned 4895 is good. I use 3031 as I go way back and used up the surplus 4895.

Avoid the unplated Winchester primers as they are undersize in diameter.

When they first went brass colored a while back the WLR were a relatively loose fitting primer for me too. However the last several thousand I've been through haven't been that way.

"I bought a bunch of once fired 260 rem R-P brass. The initial full length size die was backed off just enough to still fit in the chamber rather tighter than loose. My brand new Redding die puts dents in nearly 60% of the cases shoulders. Upon separating the cases by original headspace dimensions, I can select out those cases that were fired in tighter rather than sloppy chambers. The cases fired from tighter chambers do not dent, but ones where the shoulder must be bumped more than 0.003" produce these characteristic dents. I need to know if the minor dents in the shoulder are dangerous. I realize that many people fireform wildcats as in AI cartridges, so Id think this is not a problem. I will link a picture of the cases if necessary. advice please!"

I've always understood that oilcans in the shoulder is a result of too much lube. I would guess that not having a vent hole might contribute also. The oilcans are not dangerous merely unsightly.

This I have to agree with completely. Had this happen with new Redding dies also.

I've had this problem with Redding dies also. However, recently I have been resizing with the de-capper stem totally removed. Then I replace the stem and expand the neck on the down stroke. I get less case stretching and straighter necks. A side effect is that the die vents thru the top and no oil can dents. I know, I'm anal...........

How does the absence of the decapping stem affect the oil can dents?

The trapped air/lube is outside the case, caught between the outside of the case neck (while it's captured in the die neck) and the outside of the case body (which is making a seal lower down in the die body).

I don't know the reason, but when I started the above mentioned procedure, the dents went away. Maybe something else changed, but I'm not intelligent enough to know why. I started sizing without the stem trying to get more concentric brass and for some reason the dents also went away. I'll take it, whatever the reason.

I'd go with the flow too.

Doing a little extra to build straight cartridges pays off.

It sure does. I have to agree, if it works stick with it.

Amen........

I was thinking about this last night. The best way would be to get a bushing die and throw away the expander altogether. better case life, less trimming in my experience, and one less step.

That is in all likelyhood my next move. A few at a time.......